Im looking to put a cage in my Buick and I'm unsure the exact difference between each cage setup. Does the number of points designate how many connections the cage makes with the body? So a six point is a roll bar, with two bars going into the trunk and two towards the kickpanels? An 8pt ads a firewall? Can someone explain the basics for me? Thanks in advance.
I was searching for some basic info and found this comment from Chassis Engineering, Inc.: I'm assuming they're referring to the cage's unfriendly hard surfaces and your head during an "incident". Anyone care to comment? Devon
Forgot to mention, yes, the number of points refers to frame/subframe connections. http://www.irw-racing.com/cages/info.html Devon
Rob, I guess the most important thing is what are you planning to do with the car? All out racer? Street/strip? What type of car will also depend on how the roll bar or cage gets mounted. Uni Body cars need a different approach opposed to full frame cars.If you are planning on going to the 10's,you could get by with a 6 point roll bar. The main hoop is 2 points and the 2 to the back are 2 points and the 2 from the main hoop to the front feet area would be 2 points. Now if you add 2 bars from the main hoop toward the center of the hump area,you get 8 point.A 10 point would also be the a pillar bars mounted to the frame but the feet bars if you will would hook to the a pillar bar instead. 12 point bars have the addition of the firewall bars.I can post pics if you'd like to show the differences. What are you caging anyways?? Mind you...t6he cross bars and roof bars do not count as poits in a roll cage.The roof bars generally start with 10 point. There are also 14 point bars and funny car cage add ons as well. Chrome Moly is alot more expensive to purchase and has to be tig welded whereas mild steel weighs more but is Mig welded and cheaper. A well thought out desisgn is the best.
There's something to be said for that, smacking your head on a piece of tubing could do more than give you a headache! I think keeping the bars tucked in tight to the interior and using the new (firmer) roll bar padding would help.
Im planning a street/strip, i'd like to be able to drive it around and not just in town either. I still have ALOT to learn about setting up a car to go this fast. But right now im planning for an 8pt cage. I dont know the exact prices but for reference purpose, "mild steel" kits from Jegs are around $150. Not bad, with that said I would be willing to spend $300 for the Chrome moly. Is it the labor that is expensive, because your working with high quality tubing benders and notchers, tig welders etc.? I only have a miller mig at work so that wouldnt be an option. I dont plan on going tens right away, maybe down the road.....way down the road. For now 12's or low 13's. Im also interested in the possibility of the swingout door bars for an 8pt. Or are those seperate and just added protection on top of the bar that runs from the roll bar forward? I know you were talking about them and were concerned because they don't hold up as well in a crash and you were only going to use it on the strip. Pat, did you buy a chevelle kit for your car? Is yours steel? I suppose the only reason I would go 12 pt is, 1. be even more safe in case of a crash, 2. give me more room in the engine compartment to work. Also, instead of attaching the forward bars from the roll bar to the floor, couldn't you attach them to a bar that runs up from the floor and along the bottom most edge of the dash to the otherside floor or would that not help anything? Is 1 5/8 x .083 chrome moly tubing good enough, or will bigger just add more weight than strength. I remember Jim Weise talking about a caged and tubbed car he got in that was done wrong, way too much cage and poorly designed, car wasn't leveled/sqaure. I found it, HERE For now the car is secret but should be in my hands by the end of the week, im really nervous about looking it over. I know I'll find more wrong, im just hoping I dont. All pointers are welcome guys, rather than not ask "dumb" questions im going to ask and make sure I know what I'm doing. :TU:
Rob, I have an Chris Alston main 6 point roll bar setup, then had a local to me (Auto Weld) make the conversion kit with roof bar,a pillar bars and the firewall bars to fit it. It is for Chevelles but he had specs on Buicks that were so close. There are no stupid questions to ask about a roll cage or roll bar. Bobb Makley can attest that a good set up sure is worth the money. I plan to be 10's-11's top as I want to also bracket race my car and thats in the times where breakages are less compared to a 8-9 second car. Its actually going to be a hobby type car and I am not trying to be famous with it.Just would like to attend the Buick races and hang out with Buick buddies.
I looked at his stuff and I like how the cage is setup. His 8pt cage has some options which is nice. I don't think I need the rocker tubes or dash bar(dash bar would just clutter dash space and make it a pain to work underneath the dash). But maybe the helmet bar isnt a bad idea. It can't hurt, besides cost. But the price isnt too bad, 8pt cage made from 4130 (that is better than mild steel but not chrome molly?) is $429.00 I think its pretty cool that you would like to go with vintage paint/lettering on the car.
Rob; I had my cage (very stelth, and cro-mol) bent and installed by these guys http://www.compfab.com/ They are not that far from you. Do yourself a favor and have it done right the first time.:idea2: If you go the "kit" rt. I like S&W http://www.swracecars.com/
Yeah.....thats the ticket. Just want to have fun and go some what fast. :TU: here is a link for ya. http://www.artmorrison.com/rollcage/racebars.cfm I had been looking at the 10 point.
Just down the road about 35 miles. I will definitely check them out when the time comes. Thanks:beer My neighbor who has a drag monza told my about art morrison being inexpensive. Now I can put a website to the name. Thanks
Rob if you decide on a cage,make sure that it conforms to whatever type of racing you are planning to participate specs.I'll suggest referencing the NHRA rule book,I believe it to be the stricter one out there.Remember that more than the rigidity that the cage offers to the car,it is there to take care of you in the event of an accident.If you need a cage you are going fast,build it right the first time,it may come to your aid at some point.:beer
Rob, whatever you do... make sure you you have it safe. I decided to go all out in case I do get a screaming motor and can go fast. There are a few other places to get cages as well like S&W Racecars in Pa. They offer a free catalog I believe and in it you can get ideas and such. Art Morrison is a little expensive to buy from,but has great products as well. I have a local place to me(45 mins away) that I buy my cage items from. Its called Auto Weld and they have a good online catalog as well. give them a chance too. http://www.swracecars.com/ http://autoweldchassis.com/
I just noticed a couple things that no one has mentioned, maybe you all know this already. 1. The two bars that go from the main hoop in towards the trans tunnel are only for ladder bar cars. Those two bars are there so the front of the ladder bars have something to push up against. They would do absolutely nothing in a GS, Skyhawk, etc. with stock suspension. 2. If you put in a Chrom-moly cage, you HAVE to TIG weld it. NHRA rules. If you don't know how to TIG weld, don't try putting the cage in yourself. Leave it to a professional. This also costs more. Have fun.
