Balancer movement question

I thought the balancer pulley was loose at the nationals because we detected some movement back and forth (no in and out) when gripping the pulley and turning it. However, the bolts are tight and the balancer is actually moving back and forth with the pulley. I'd say about .010 or so. I have not been able to detect any movement at the flexplate at least by eye. Any ideas about what could cause this? I have not checked yet to make sure balancer bolt is torqued but I'm reasonably sure it is. Thanks

 

If it moved in and out, i would think it could be thrust but i'm talking rotational movement.

 

Keyway\ woodruff key issue only thing cause that

 

I have seen a few balancer hubs cracked too

 

Going to take it off and check it this week. I didn't see how it could move if the balancer bolt was tight.

 

Some crank gears can be machined bad and the balancer butts up on them instead before hitting the flat on the Crank.
This can lead to split / cracked Balancer.

 

The balancer bolt has to be loose. If it is torqued on to 200 ft lbs like it is suppose to be, you would have no independent balancer rotation.

Regardless of if it is bottoming out on the timing gear, the flat of the crank snout, or both, if the bolt was tight, it could not move.

That crank gear check suggestion is excellent for finding the ultimate cause of the issue.

The balancer hub may have cracked, or I do know that Mike at TA has found a few of the thick washers cracked.. He had new ones made here a year or so ago.

Most likely what your seeing is the result of a loose bolt, that has now worn/broken the keyway in the balancer. Hopefully a new balancer/bolt/washer will fix you up.

JW

 

Sounds like the ole broken balancer snout. Its amazing how eventually you will expiearance everything breaking at one time or another. But breaking the washer, and nothing else at that time. Thats one I have not had the joy of seeing yet.

 

Bolt was loose. No idea how it loosened, I cant detect any crack in the snout but i think the key was damaged as there is some wiggle left and right when the balancer is seated. The key way measures .255"

 

May get by with a new key or have one machined to fit the crank slot and the balancer slot , crank may be a few thousandths wider now possibly.

Balancer bolts loosen quite often, or maybe I should say it's not uncommon

 

Factory balancer where never intended to do there job the best at over 4500 rpm , so it may just be time to ease the load on your motors bottom end if you shift at 5000 rpm or better and get a new steel hub balancer!
Ever see the distruction caused by a failed factory unit even at only 3000 rpm?

 

Do you think something like this could cause a drive line vibration throughout the car?

 

A small amount of play like he had, no!

 

You still vibin Briz?

 

Pretty much ruled out everything except the drive shaft. Its been recently rebuilt so I would not suspect it. Have 2 others I can swap in for a comparison. Just not that motivated lately.

 

How much movement should there be side to side with a stock balancer in the key way with the bolt out? Mine wiggles about .005-.010 I'd guess.

 

Let this sink in once again, the balancer should not wiggle if it's seated against the Crank face and bolt washer as intended!
Is this the outer ring you speak of that has this play in it?

Rebuilt stock drive shafts can still come apart on the inside, so I would pull it and rock it around and listen for rust rolling around in it!

 

Buick balancers are a slip on fit, no tool necessary to instal or remove. So there will always be a very minimum amount of wiggle. Minute. I would use red locktite on the threads, and use a half inch air tool to install it. One like you see say a tire shop guy uses to remove tires.