Anyone have Ladder bars w/out wheel tubs?

Discussion in 'Race car chassis tech' started by BillyG, Mar 4, 2008.

  1. BillyG

    BillyG Well-Known Member

    I have a 70 Chevelle that I'm considering a ladder bar purchase for. I'm not talking about the bolt-in type Lakewood Ladder bars, but the real ones that have to be welded-in along with the weld-in crossmember. Does anyone here have the Ladder bars with a skinny tire car (10.5"-11" wide tire)???

    Can you give me the low down as far as how much better I can expect my car to hook off the line at the track as well as on the street too? Are there pros and cons, or just pros? Can the car still be droiven on the street w/out breaking things every time a bump is encountered? Does it matter whether I buy the Competition Engineering ladder bars or the Chris Alston/Chassis Works ones? Is this a modification that must be performed by a race car chassis shop, or can it be done by a competent mechanic and welder at home? Please help.
     
  2. monkeyy337

    monkeyy337 monkeyy337

    I had this done on a 78 Malibu (I'm not a welder) and it was a small tired car. I ran 8" wheels, 275/60/15 Hoosier Quick Time tires or 11.50/28/15 ET Streets but it was only used for drag racing because it had no street title. I believe the guy that installed mine used the Competition kit (with weld in cross member) and it didn't look to me why a competent welder/mechanic could not perform the work. My 60' foot times did not really change but they were the same run after run after I changed the coil over springs. I think my kit came with the 150lb springs and the car would not hook with them (not enough motor) but after changing them to the (I think 125-130lb ones) the car never spun after that and I mean never. I was running a ZZ4 Chevy motor with the GN Hot camshaft and roller rockers which made about 400 hp and 410lbs torque. I also had a 70 Monte Carlo 12 bolt rear end, 5.5 wheel back spacing (centered the wheel in the wheel well) and 4:10 gears. The car ran 11.80's @ 113 mph. Hope this info helps.
     
  3. BillyG

    BillyG Well-Known Member

    hmmm....interesting.... okay, thankyou for your reply.
     
  4. GS Kubisch

    GS Kubisch THE "CUT-UP" BUICK

    I've been 1.28 60 ft. on a true 10.5" slick.
    Ladder Bars/Coil-overs NO TUBS.
    Unless you're building the car for a specific class,Ladder bars are the easiest way to go.
     

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