Anyone gone Distributorless?

For you non EFI guys if you can wait a couple months you will see a new product from Accel. Can't tell you much more quite yet but it's due out in late Sept.

 

I built a distributorless ignition using a V8 EDIS system with that same 36-1
trigger wheel. Programmed the advance using an AUTO SPORT module and
my PC. Replaced a fixed spark advance system, it made a dramatic difference
in performance and fuel economy. That trigger wheel is made of powdered
metal, I wouldn't modify it much. I read of one coming apart at high rpm.

You can see/read about it on PHOTOBUCKET sub album CRANK TRIGGER IGN
Bruce Roe

http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l71/bcroe/Crank Trigger Ignition/

 

Maybe this is a better link Bruce

http://s93.photobucket.com/albums/l71/bcroe/Crank Trigger Ignition/?start=all

 

Is that a lawnmower? haha, neat.

Here is what mine looks like with a new balancer. I now have to pick up a sensor and make a bracket.

 

That really is cool!

 

I pinned the trigger wheel in four places and set the missing tooth at 70* BTDC per the recommendation of my EFI go to guy (60*-90* BTDC).

 

Yes, its a 20 hp tractor, takes me 2 hours every week to mow 4 acres.
It used to have terrible low end torque and terrible fuel economy, and
wouldn't idle below 1500 rpm. Now my 2 hours are much more pleasant,
throttle is smooth, plenty of low end torque, it idles at 800 rpm, and I
don't run out of gas (HURRAY). The system is identical to a V8, I only
have 2 plug wires hooked up. Next one goes on my 403. Bruce Roe

 

can anyone tell me if the LS1 coil packs are the self igniting and will work if controlled by the Megasquirt 3?
Thanks!

 

Here is detailed information from the Megasquirt documentation

http://www.megamanual.com/seq/coils.htm

Paul

 

Here is more information on coil packs.

http://www.roadmachine.fi/Buick/EFI4.html

Paul

 

I never posted an updated picture here.

Here is the setup mounted. The picture shows the missing tooth at 10*, before I pinned it in place, but I actually pinned it at 70*.






And got this escort cranktrigger sensor to use.

 

Thesilverbuick

Have you got this running ? If not when do you expect to?

 

I'm going to fire the engine up tomorrow or the day after with my conventional pickup (single tach wire on the pickup coil in a hollow HEI distributor) because of all the other changes I've made to the engine this go around (aluminum heads, roller cam, more compression). Once it's running and the drivability is tuned to my satisfaction I'll start work on fabbing up some angle iron brackets to bolt to the timing cover. TA was generous enough to put a threaded hole next to the timing tab to mount such a bracket too. Once satisfied with my bracket mounting I'll move the wire from the pickup coil to the crank trigger and see how it does.

That's the process, time wise may get a little sketchy. I'm going on Drag Week in September, if it doesn't happen before then it'll happen afterwards. So either first week of September (big IF) or more likely end of September or in October at my leisure. It is still just a hobby

 

Will the GN cam sensors fit in the 350 timing cover?

 

I'm 99% certain it does. The 231 and 350 are virtually identical. I'm using a 231 distributor in my 455, and from looking a pictures online it looks like it'd drop right into a 350 and right into a 455 with a gear swap.

 

can anyone tell about the wiring for a GN cam sensor, and what kind of sensor it is?
Also any place to get a connector so I can wire it in from the stock connection?
Thanks!:beer

 

My go to EFI guy, while at Drag Week, gave me a crank sensor to try out. I forget the exact model number, but the brand name is Cherry o No:

This mount is probably going to be too wobbly, though I may try and weld a triangulated brace on it to stiffen it up. I have a couple other "designs" rolling around in my head to try out. I want something simple.

So round one.

From below.


From above.

 

Bracket try number two. I think third time is going to be a charm. I have a slight revision of this one and I think I'll be happy with it.

Square aluminum tubing with a piece of aluminum angle stock screwed to it. Notched and I can remove the sensor quickly from the side.


I'll locktite the screws on the final design (since I can't weld aluminum..). I may do something slightly different with the nut at the end, or maybe with just washer to give a better grip on the stock for centering.


It's rock solid like that. After tightening down the bolt, I put a wrench on the box tube and turn it to where I wanted to make the sensor perpendicular to the trigger wheel, then holding the wrench in place put a touch more torque on the bolt. I'm going to flip the angle piece to the bottom, which will allow me to read the timing mark at zero and more easily tighten the adjusting nuts and see the sensor gap. I'm contemplating a threaded stud loctited into the timing cover with the nut tightened against the timing cover then using a nylon/lock nut or something on the end to make sure it won't back off. Haven't decided yet. Thoughts?

 

If I'm reading this correctly, the new plan would have the box tube sitting against the nut on the timing cover.

The nut does't provide as much surface area for the box tube to sit on as when it is against the timing cover and will not be as rigid.
Also you are relying on the nut's flat surfaces to be parallel.

Then you have to make sure there is enough room to slide the box tube off the threaded rod.

I like your original plan using just a bolt better.

BTW nice work!

Paul

 

Thanks!

I'd be using a washer for the box tube to sit against. Like it is in the picture (which I'm also considering notching the tubing so it kinda locks around the washer on the corners). Also there is an even less guarantee that my cut's at either end of the box tube are straight, at least no more straighter than the nut. I've thought about using a longer length of tube and do away with the nut and just use a washer at the end, but I think the nut helps provide some compression back at the tube when tightening it down with out over stressing the aluminum threads on the timing cover. I could easily be mistaken in that though, I'm not an engineer.

The issue with the first design is flex. And welding support bracing on it would only make it harder to install and remove. At least with the 1" stuff I have. I also should double the thickness of the plate to stiffen it up. It really didn't take much force to make it flex, where as this box design is definitely rigid. I could make another go at this design.