Any fine details to know before installing 750 CFM Edelbrock Performer?

All,

I've just received the carb from Summit and I plan to install it this weekend. I live in San Diego, CA so hopefully it was calibrated to run right out of the box. Here is what I have for the install...

New carb studs
New air cleaner (free from Summit)
New fuel filter
Tach/Dwell tester
obviously...my tools

I haven't purchased any linkages because there is nothing specific for the 64 Riviera. So i'm gonna wait till the carb is on and go from there. Are there any additional things that i "must have" for a smooth install or do I have my bases covered?

This will be my first carburetor install. Any tips from the experienced guys that might help this inexperienced guy?

Thank you and look forward to hearing some responses.
Chris

 

Which 750? There is an emissions calibrated one IIRC.

 

1411

 

Catalog info says 2% leaner than the 1407, but...
I haven't used this particular model with electric choke but if it's like any other emissions calibrated one I've been paid to make work, on a performance (non-stock) engine...simply richening the rods might not be enough, depending on your level of tuning needed.
I believe the midrange and transition circuits can be satisfied (richened up) by drilling the orifices accessed past the plugs seen in the front of the carb's body.
It will probably 'run just fine' on a mellow engine though.

 

This is a stock 425...so hope it does "run just fine". Thank you for the input.

 

OOTB carbs like that are meant to "run OK" in a wide range of apps.
On engines that 'breathe deeper' they can fall short from expectations.
An example of a similar breathing engine in terms of carburetion is the 413-440's installed in motorhomes.
With the engine under a slightly higher load, they don't like the leaner circuits of the emissions carbs.
One of the few applications I've intentionally chosen an Edel 750 (non-emission) and have been able to double (or greater) the mileage on is the above motorhomes.
So, if it runs OK and you are happy, cool.
If it needs basic richening, do that.
If it needs more than that and some timing adjustments...then I'd change carbs.

 

Don't forget to either block the exhaust holes in the intake manifold under the carb. or use the stainless heat transfer plate or else it won't run properly because it's sucking exhaust into the intake & eating away at the base of the carb. from exhaust gases. Next is how to hook-up the electric downshift. Linkage should be no problem using the stock set-up. Where it becomes a BIG challenge is the tuning aspect, especially if you have NO tuning experience. I would send it back & get the carb. suggested.


Tom T.

 

I'm sorry but I didn't see the suggested carb. Is it the 1407? Ill look for the heat transfer plate. Thanks for the input.

Edit: is this the part I need? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...36_SY340_QL65&keywords=carburetor+heat+shield

 

OK...now you are going to hate me :bla:

When I say that I've intentionally chosen the Edel 750 non-emissions carbs, it was in situations where the owner had already purchased one and had several other types to choose from in various states of disrepair, because as we all know...they are marketed to fit universally and carefully calibrated to work perfectly.
Really, they were the best of the pile and I didn't have the heart to tell the owner to send it back because they'd had it too long to return or whatever, and I can probably make a car run with a box of drill bits and a block of wood instead of a carb if I needed to, but I digress...

In loose preference;
Original carb expertly rebuilt, preferably by the pros available on this forum.
Equivalent replacement of above, built by same.
The infinitely adjustable double pumpers and non-Holley derivatives, expertly tuned.
Edelbrock carb as mentioned (I'm not recommending any PN's)
OEM TB system swap.
Aftermarket fuel injection
Books on tuning carbs, which can go much deeper than;
Vast internet research.
Asking people on forums how to tune your carb when you get to that point.

Hopefully I didn't scare you away, any carb 'might' run just fine with minor adjustments to initial timing and idle mixture/speed.

 

always thought the difference between the 407 and 411 was just the front jet and metering rod. the 411 is one jet size smaller on the primary side, and two sizes smaller on the metering rod at cruise, but with the smaller jet combine with the metering rod, that makes it 3 sizes smaller at cruise.. you could just get 70x42 metering rods, there a easy to change. you would be the same as the 407 at wide open throttle and one step leaner at cruise which wouldn't hurt anything. the 407 is too rich at cruise to start with anyways. not sure what f85 is saying about drilling ?

 

Maybe 20+ years ago, I took in a cammed up cross ram engine with 2 Edel 750's I could not get to work right, despite the rod changes.
A call to Edelbrock had me walked through drilling out some passageways, which changed the transition response. Edelbrock had told me that there was more going on than just a rod change for the emissions calibrated carbs. I could be wrong, what do I know, I didn't design those?
Never did I do that again for a carb that was inadequately chosen in the first place.
Occasionally I come across those and they don't seem to fit the needs of the things I work around, so I don't suggest them.
If someone wants to take their time and research the differences or wonder if there have been any changes made in decades, they are welcome to.

 

I have an old carb I would like to try what you did.

 

Actually I'm more grateful you're taking the time to help. I can't hate that!

I would have definitely rebuilt my original carb BUT the carb that is on the car is a carb for a 66 340 buick motor. It's inadequate for the long term. That's the ONLY reason
for buying a carb in the first place. I also have a budget and the 1411 fit the bill so to speak.

I appreciate all the advice and input from everyone. Keep them coming.

 

I have an 65' 401" Electra, and I changed my carb out for a 750cfm Edelbrock with manuel chooker, and used the linkage from the original carb.. I live at sea-level, and the carb is perfect out the box.. My spark plugs are lovely brown and no matter where in the rpm's I punch the pedal, it just picks up and go..

 

Not sure the air cleaner they sent you will clear the hood, you may need to use the original one.

 

It's a drop base edelbrock 14 in cleaner. I couldn't really argue the free factor!

Chris

 

Those gaskets/heat shields/ spacers are not the pieces you need. I have what you need in stock along with the proper carb. base gasket. The gasket you receive with the carb. is NOT correct.


Tom T.

 

Soren, the question is "which Edelbrock 750?"
There's an emissions calibrated one also.

 

I totally understand, I would take it too! There's always another project if it won't fit this one! It did not work on mine.

 

I am curious why you put aftermarket fuel injection so far down on the list?

I don't have one myself yet, but I am planning one in the future

Also, just as a curiosity, whats the thoughts on predetor carbies?