Any appliance technicians for clothes dryer

Discussion in 'The "Other" Bench' started by telriv, Jan 26, 2018.

  1. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Well here we are at today over the week-end. Checked the push/start button & has continuity. Checked the thermal cut-out & it has continuity. Next, just for the heck of it, checked the heating element & it also checks OK. Went to the appliance repair place today to check on availability of a wiring diagram or some kind of schematic. Got a schematic with pictures pointing to diff. controls/parts but no part numbers or what the controls are. No wiring diagram can be found. The technician used a website www.tribles.com. Nothing else can be found online. One thing I did find out is it has NO thermal fuse. Just a capillary line (like a mechanical water temp. gauge) running up to one of the temp. fabric control switches on the face of the dryer with 3 wires on it. Can this be the thermal fuse control??? How would I go about testing this??? Any more ideas???
    I already stated this but will give the model number again so it doesn't need to be looked up through the posts again.

    Make Whirlpool Imperial 80
    Model # LXE8700WO
    Serial # M13403004


    AGAIN TIA for any help, thoughts or insites to this.


    Tom T.
     
  2. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Well, here it is the 16th. of Feb. & after MANY hrs. of searching came up with a wiring diagram. Went through ALL the diagnostics again & came up with NOTHING!!! Even jumped the door switch with a jumper wire. Brought all the parts up in a bag identified each one. They called me back & said it's the door switch, but of course being so old it, of course, is not available. This guy has been doing this for 35+ yrs. & said he will try & find a suitable replacement, which he did, but it needed to be modified. I told him I had jumpered it, but he insisted that the switch was bad. I also told him I would be quite upset if when I put it ALL back together again it still didn't work. He assured me the switch was in fact N/G. Brought it home & installed all the components I removed using the wiring diagram I had made of the various components before I found a wiring diagram. The ONLY thing I found diff. was the button to make the contact was TOO long. Since it's easy to remove & replace I installed as is. The door wouldn't close all the way. Now I had to take a chance & remove the extra .065" off the new switch. Guess what IT WORKS.
    Thanks for ALL the replies & suggestions. Sometimes even with the knowledge I THOUGHT I HAD, jumpering, I was WRONG & HE WAS RIGHT. I now have a working dryer. If it lasts another 10 yrs. it will probably be longer than my life span.
    THANKS AGAIN GUYS.


    Tom T.
     
    Roberta likes this.
  3. Brad Conley

    Brad Conley RIP Staff Member

    Glad you got it figured out Tom. Sometimes you have way more invested that what it was worth, but the satisfaction of getting it fixed and working is soooo worth it! I too hope it lasts another 10 years (or more!!).
     
  4. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Yeah, forgot to mention it was ONLY $30.00
     
  5. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    Im wondering why if the switch was bad and you jumped it , why it wouldnt run
     
  6. gsfred

    gsfred Founders Club Member

    Just had the door switch go bad in mine. It gave warnings, like it would keep running with the door open, or would not run unless I jiggled the switch. It's newer, so was able to find Utubes of it, and was able to get the switch from Amazon for less than $10.
     
  7. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    NEVER gave me a clue Fred. It worked one minute & NOT the next.
    They were 5 terminals & I probably jumped the wrong two. This was BEFORE I procured a wiring diagram.
     

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