Another 455 Build Up

Discussion in 'V-8 Buick Powered Regals' started by johnwwjr, Jul 10, 2011.

  1. johnwwjr

    johnwwjr Founders Club Member

    I'm finally getting started on the doing the good stuff with this build up. Spent last fall getting most of the car apart and the body off the frame. I had to stop for most of the winter and into the spring for family stuff but now I am really starting to get at it. Got the frame fully disassembled and sent out to get stripped, and now starting to get the body ready to be prepped for paint. I am attaching some of the pics I currently have and will put up more as I go along. I'm doing this by myself so it is like going a mile an inch at a time.

    I had the motor put together by TA Perf. out in AZ. :dollar: While helping my son move to CA, I stopped by to see it, before it was sent back east. It was great meeting the whole TA crew while out there. Mike T. and Tim were very helpful going over headers, mounts etc. The test stand is the original front frame clip out of Mike's wagon.

    Getting the chassis ready to strip was easier than I thought. With the body off the frame, it was much easier getting the old 3.8/Turbo 200 out and the rest of the suspension parts as well. Going in a day or two to get the frame back from the strip joint and check out "straightness" before getting it boxed and the rear notched. The car will be 50/50 street strip.

    I am sure that the real "fun" will begin when the assembly starts....
     

    Attached Files:

  2. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    John, if it runs as good as it looks you'll be a happy man. Keep us posted.

    Devon
     
  3. STAGE-2 TORQUE

    STAGE-2 TORQUE STAGE-2 Buick "482 Stroker" soon!

    "I Love It, Mannnn!!!" :tu::tu:
     
  4. johnwwjr

    johnwwjr Founders Club Member

    @ Devon and Stage 2: Thanks for the replies. The heads are TA's Stage 2's, 10:1 and is using their hydraulic roller grind. Mike sent one of these to Tri Shield and they dyno'ed near 600 Hp with nearly matching torque #'s. Sounded really healthy but not wild running on their test stand. I can't wait to get this thing together, but will need to have patience. I was impressed by others' work in the V8 Regals section, and went from doing a 79 Century wagon to the 80 Coupe. That wagon was in better condition than this but I really wanted the coupe after checking out some of the others here.
     
  5. johnwwjr

    johnwwjr Founders Club Member

    The motor just arrived from TA Performance. I cannot say enough about the quality of the motor build and crating. The crate that it arrived in is as well thought out and finished as the motor. None of the engine's fasteners had any scratches or marks; there was no loctite, or such, showing around the intake, front cover or oil pan gaskets. Mike custom fit a dipstick using the headers that will be used on this car, so shouldn't be any problem. This motor was running when I visited them out at their location, and there is no evidence of any kind of leaks around the valve covers, front cover or rear seal. I am truly impressed with their workmanship and quality. Also the motor came with a book with all of the engine specifications, cam specs, head machining, assembly and flow bench work, even the connecting rod specs were documented. There is nothing about the assembly of the engine that is not here. The picture on the cover is even my motor, not a generic shot. I know this sounds like a commercial, but for the money spent, I would say that it was worth every penny.
     

    Attached Files:

  6. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Why, look! A splendid example of the elusive and endangered build sheet species!!!

    Nine out of ten people complaining about problems with a new engine never dream of even asking for this critical little piece of information. What's worse is when the subject is brought up, they still fail to understand the significance whether they're having problems or not. It seems many think that in general if it's rebuilt, it must be fine.

    Looking good, John!

    Devon
     
  7. johnwwjr

    johnwwjr Founders Club Member

    Devon, thanks for the post.

    If and when I ever do another Buick, I would like to do a 65/66 Wildcat rag top or a 65 Riv. GS. That would be an accomplishment. I love those cars. The little I see of your 67 on your avatar, looks good too.
     
  8. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

  9. johnwwjr

    johnwwjr Founders Club Member

    Devon, the finished paint, roof, bright work and chrome are excellent. Looks like you spent many, many hours block sanding etc.,.. the panels on that car look arrow-straight.

    If I can get mine looking half that good, I would be happy. I have been playing around with some easy color combo's. Right now, I'm thinking about a satin silver/pewter with burgundy interior. Still thinking though..... I remember seeing a silver 67 GS 400 that was silver with the rally wheels and the old Firestone Super Sport red lines. I know my car is an '80 Regal, but I would like to try a look similar to that. We'll see.
     
  10. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Thanks John, but the roof is poop. That's on the list since the old vinyl top is giving up.

    Keep us posted on your color decisions. Sounds like you have some really good ideas.

    Devon
     
  11. johnwwjr

    johnwwjr Founders Club Member

    Just got the frame back today from the welder. Had it media-stripped earlier and now, needs to get cleaned up for paint..... Attaching some before and after shots.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. johnwwjr

    johnwwjr Founders Club Member

    Getting the body ready for paint. Block sanding and removing undercoating are taking up much of my spare time. In NJ, many good solvents used for undercoating and weatherstrip adhesive are no longer available. However I have found that 3M Solvent #2 works very well when compared to the crap that you can buy here. You have to wear a good painting respirator when using it though. Anyhow, work is proceeding a mile an inch at a time. Some before shots attached.
     

    Attached Files:

  13. johnwwjr

    johnwwjr Founders Club Member

    Finally go the garage cleaned up after the Irene flood. Not as bad as many areas in NY, PA and VT, but I had 3' of water in the garage and the whole basement was a loss. Lost some parts due to water damage, but nothing too major.

    Anyhow, got the rear axle housing installed and soon to get the motor and trans in. Will post pics after this is done. This should be a relative breeze since the body's off the frame, but this is my first attempt at anything like this. Using the collective wisdom of the stickies and others efforts in this forum.
     

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  14. mebe007

    mebe007 Active Member

    wow you really knotched that frame didnt you. how hard was it to get the body off etc? i just picked up a new arc welder and would be interested in doing this.
     
  15. johnwwjr

    johnwwjr Founders Club Member

    Sorry, I haven't been on for a while. Used an idea from a local chassis shop located in Roselle NJ. Anyhow, he has built a number of Malibus and Cutlasses for bracket racing, and he suggested this. I was not too sure, due to the extreme cuts (outer welded to the inner with very little left) but went ahead anyway as the major thrust goes to the lower control arm mounting point which is still on the stock frame and heavily braced. The upper control arms have a support welded inside and to the outside of the bolt holes. I also have the upper tied to the lower with support bars. Putting the body back on and having a custom roll cage put together. This will be welded to the frame and provide added support by welding to the rear crossmember a few inches inside of the upper spring cups. I will also be bolting a mount into the no. 5 position that had just the rubber biscuit in place, thru the bottom of the trunk. This will provide all the support I need. Car will be street driven mostly. I will be able to handle the 315 radials or 29x10x15 tires for track stuff.

    Getting the body off was a chore since I had no other tools other than cement blocks, 6x6's, other 2x6's and two floor jacks. The no 5 mounts right behind the rear wheels were rusted solid to the body and had to be cut and then drilled out. The rear pieces of the ebrake cables had to be cut, as well as the brake down lines from the master cylinder (rust). Everything else came apart cleanly with the proper persuasion. I built my own "cart" to support the body and assembled it with the upright supports and casters outside of the frame rails (I had the lumber and the casters already). Just unbolted and jacked the body up high enough to clear all of the frame stuff. Pulled the engine and trans out then rolled the body out of the garage over the frame. I am more concerned getting the body back on since I will need to raise the frame up close to the body to get the mounting holes lined up as close as possible, get the supports under the body, and jack it off of the cart, then disassemble the cart and hopefully lift the frame to body. I am doing most of this by myself, so things get a bit "exciting" at times. Some shots attached that show the body supports and the cart I built to put under it.
     

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  16. johnwwjr

    johnwwjr Founders Club Member

    I made some mistakes with the above post. The no 6 mounts were rusted not the no 5's, they are just rubber supports against the front part of the trunk floor pan. Also the brake down lines from the M/C were rusted into the distribution block on the frame, not the M/C.
     
  17. johnwwjr

    johnwwjr Founders Club Member

    Devon, a while back I was split between silver-grey and an ivory color. I have decided on the satin ivory with the burgundy interior. I really wanted the Buick Rallye's, but after getting the low budget wobbly's from Wheel Vintiques, I have caved to one of my other favorites, the totally non-unique American Torque Thrust D's, 15x6 front and 15x8 rear with 0% offset backspacing (3.5 front and 4.5 rear). Still deciding on the redlines or blackwalls. Diamond Back Tire in NC has re-faced BFG T/A's or Coopers w/redlines. I would still like to have the Buick Rallyes but I would need someone like stockton wheel or similar place to do them right and that would be $$$$. I have 14x6's that could be used as the basis, but that will be another time. The Americans with redlines may be ok, but I would like to be able to preview it somehow first, before going with them.
     
  18. johnwwjr

    johnwwjr Founders Club Member

    Took some pics of getting the motor mount frame pads in. These pictures were taken while testing the placement after getting them bolted in. Worked out well using a bare block from a local engine builder along with the 200 4R. With the frame resembling swiss cheese where these go, I will be tack welding them as well. Also got the body primed and added a base coat of satin ivory, and roughed in the fuel line, return and brake lines. Next is to get the body on the frame and the roll bar welded in for added frame strength.
     

    Attached Files:

  19. johnwwjr

    johnwwjr Founders Club Member

    Winter here in NJ has been pretty much non-existent, so lucky us. Anyhow, been working slowly on the car when I could, and got the body on the frame and the suspension installed to the point that the car can be rolled to a flatbed. I need the roll bar installed and then I can go faster to get this thing ready for the summer. Need to do a lot of work to get this thing on the road; trying to make it to the BPG meet in Aug. Some newer pictures attached. First shot is jacking the frame up the body, last shows older door panel installed to get roll bar with room for door trim. Initially, I'll be using American Torq Thrust D's with BFG's for driving around. I have contacted a wheel mfgr. to hopefully take the 14's shown to 15x8 and 15x6. If the price is right, I just may do it since I originally wanted the Buick wheels on this.
    :pray:








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  20. R4E5G5L

    R4E5G5L Not a Cutlass

    Looking good John, I wish I had the patience, energy, skills to do that!
     

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