I recently purchased a Powermaster 47293 alternator. As I have AC, I need to swap out the single groove pulley that came with the aftermarket alternator with the dual groove pulley that came from the factory. Spinning off the nut is not an issue, I have a Dewalt impact that has 300+lbft capacity. But as an engineer and Harley owner, I'm pretty religious about torqueing fasteners to a spec. So how do I hold the alternator shaft stationary while I torque the nut (or vice versa) to the recommended torque of 70lbft? I found this Kent Moore #J-35452 on eBay, the problem is that the tool fits an 7/8in nut, the alternator pulley nut is 15/16in. Any suggestions? Also, I hate to put an old dingy pulley on a sparkly alternator. What finish should I have my old pulley plated? Thanks.
Ive never torqued an alternator pulley nut ever. Ive always just hit it with the impact and good to go.
I've always done the impact thing, but did have a pulley zing off after a firm shift..so stake the thread too as a precaution. If you could use Allen wrench socket and crows foot, or vice versa. Hold one torque the other.
Thanks for the replies. With the dual groove pulley, the nut is recessed enough where a crowfoot, open end, or box end wrench won't reach the nut. The end of the shaft has a 5/16in allen, but I still need something to reach the nut while engaging the allen. I just don't feel good about using an impact to drive the nut. My smaller impact has a rating of 110lbft, I'm worried about overtorquing the nut and either stripping the nut or the alternator shaft. I was thinking of stopping at AutoZone to see if they used anything besides an impact, they might have a tool to loan out..... Any suggestions on what finish for the pulley?
I've been using the air gun for YEARS on the pulley nuts & NEVER had a problem. If you hold the pulley with your hand you will NOT over torque it as the pulley will slip BEFORE that happens. Tom T.
I think the finish is called silver cad but ask around. Here is one we did. http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/70-triple-black-stage-1-convert-rides-again.124959/page-2
torque it with the allen while holding the nut with the socket. hold the socket with a pipe wrench. its a bit on the ohio side but it'll work.
You could use a pass through socket that has a hex on one end and this torque wrench with the claw foot attachments. This way you can put a hex wrench through the socket to hold the shaft. CDI Torque Cdi Torque Products 75MFIMHSS J (27/64") Interchangeable Head Torque Wrench with 5 to 75 ft.-lb. Primary Scale Range 75MFIM https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Xtreme-Access-22-Piece-Pass-Through-Socket-Set/999956372
I'd just wire-brush the old pulley & hit it with the gun. As long as the lock-washer is in place, the retaining nut should stay tight once hit with the impact force of the air gun. I changed out my double-groove pulley when I upgraded my alternator to 110 amps...think mine was sourced from a corvette V8....both pulleys were identical.
I'm not sure if the pulley is silver cad or clear silver zinc. Both look a lot alike. I may have a pulley in both finished plate. Post a pic of your pulley especially the underside to get a look at the original finish. You may be able to tell from that. Since this is not an original alternator you are using it would seem to make little difference in which plating you choose. Both look good. If you feel you must tighten to spec you can take the alternator apart, clamp the rotor in a vise and tighten to spec with your torque wrench. Then reassemble the alt. Use caution when clamping the rotor in a vise. I made aluminium covers for my vise jaws so I dont mar the rotors with the vise jaw. If you don't have something to protect the rotor you can file any high spot after you are done. Position the rotor in the vise with the jaws touching both north and south rotor poles at the same time. This would have the gap of the poles in the ceenter of the jaw on both sides, with the edge of N and S poles against the jaw. If you clamp directly on only one pole on both sides it will slip or turn easier when torquing the nut, and may also distort the pole by squeezing it inwards . Be sure the alternator end plate can spin above the vise so you don't damage the end plate when tightening or get a false torque due to the plate against the vise leaving the nut looser than it appears. The plate only needs to be a couple of hairs above the vise and should still be able to spin when the tightening is done.
Thanks for all the input. Life's been keeping me busy this is the first chance I've had to respond. I found a socket at Sears that'll work for me. I'll hold on to the socket with a strap wrench, or a pipe wrench if that doesn't work, then spin the alternator shaft with a 5/16in allen socket hooked up to my torque wrench. The best part is that the craftsman socket was only $7. Again, thanks for all the input!
