Not quite 100% finished and ready to go in but maybe by the weekend. Finally got some time to get the new top end installed on and fresher up lower half all back together. Special thanks to Mike Phillips and Bob from finishline, you both have been invaluable in helping us. Both are first class ppl and will gladly do business with over and over again. This short block was repaired by Mike due to damage to 3 rods last year, has flat tops, and with the AL heads is just under 12:1, 308s cam. With the ported iron heads the 3850 pound raceweight went 11.0s most of the time with 10.9s on good traction and air days. The new cnc ported te2 heads support almost 50% more flow (370/275 @ .600) than my ported iron heads, Thanks Bob!!!!!! I cant wait to get it on the track and see what gains we get from the new top end combo. A new carb is also part of the new combo going to a 110mm sv1 from our 1000cfm prosystems 4150 we used and loved for years. Thanks patrick!! So a side question, my kb valve covers don't quite match the new black paint, never had a black motor b4, will that color loose some of its edge like every red motor paint does? I would just paint the covers but don't know how well that paint will stick the water appears to be powered coat on the covers, and not sure the best way to paint all those little grooves. In my mind I think just a light color coat on top and then a flat sanding block once dry to remove the paint from the machine surfaces. Also from those who know more than.me any quest prediction on et gains from going to the new combo, assuming of course everything's goes well in the traction and tune area
Hopefully today will be install day. Been awhile since I build a motor from the ground up. I forgot how many little things ones needs. Like motor mount bolts all the intake plugs and fitting, etc But I was glad I test fit my headers would had been upset at myself if not. I could not get my dipstick back out around number 5 header tube, never would had ever thought that would had been the issue. After several hrs of forming a pipe and cable to clear and fit through, I scrapped the idea in fear of the cable being to flexible and getting drawn up into the crank rotating.
After seeing the issue with the dipstick, I went ahead and assemble as much as I could on the stand to check for other issue. My account style alter b at or bracket had to under go weight loss surgery. The part that wrapped around the side of the head virtually covered all of #2 exhaust port. Easy fix with a saw all and paint. Motor and trans slide in with almost no issues besides my kb valve covers hitting the wiper motor. Even when fully in place, the motor won't return down to its original mounting postion. So that will have to be clocked to a different angle and some self drilling g and tapping screw's should fix that and allow me to remove that cover later on. The passenger side header was very little issue only requiring that side valve cover to come off to slide it up through and minor firewall relocation needed. The drivers side header was a totally different story. Steering shafts had the be removed and lots of work was needed on #7 tube to clear the lower rear control arm mount. In the end I had to remove the top corner of the mount, cut off the protruding potion of the bolt, massage the header tube slowly in like 5 spots, had to clearance the flange around the head stud between #5 and #7 then had to cut the flange between those cylinders to give #7 enough flex to pull up to the head. After 5 hrs on that side alone I thing we have it. The good news is surprisingly the steering shafts slide back in with no clearance issues. We used take headers TA_2014SCHA which are 2 1/8 tube with air and says with air were also used for motors with moved back location. But it not not fully fit ours. The headers will need to come back off to be coated later and I might have to have that tube remade to gain clearance. I might try after having the night to think about I try heating the tube in a location up and down stream and seeing if I can get tube to physically bend in towards to center of the car getting more clearance around the bracket. But it's in and should be just normal bolt on stuff from here. right lol
Finally I hear hear life from her. The sv1 supposing has not needed much and sounds great. I need to go bigger on the idle air bleed as the motor sounds happiest at about 1 turn out. Plus the light throttle has a barble from off idle to 3000, so if the idle bleeds do fix I will have to do something port 2 and 5 tuning. The msd grid was very easy to set a basemap up for. Only took a few cranks and she popped right to life. Tomorrow wI'll be actually be mounting the grid and some test pulls and maybe track time by the end of the week
Ignition all buttoned up and installed, been working on getting that mid rpm blarble out of carb. Sounds lean to me at like 1500 to 3000ish. In gear on the converter it sounds almost like 's halfway working 2 step. But wanted to see how she liked the sv1 at more actual load. So I warmed her up, picked a time buses and stuff should not be out, made my way through all 3 gears on a light load to the stop sign about a 1/4 mile away looked down and saw 210 on the temp turned around and was getting to 240 so I clicked it off and coasted home to find my fuse for the wp and fan popped. Put a new one in turned it on popped. So I Un plugged the fan knowing it draw's a lot more amp than wp and I wanted to get water going so another new fuse the pump turns on and a few seconds later starts to smoke. My 15 plus yo morose motor was on its way out. Temp quickly came down to 160. I fired her back up, backed about 600ft down the road, found l1, rolled up to about 3000found the floor board with my right foot and instantly the shift light was on at 6500, placed into drive and stopped just beyond my drive. Backed her in. The new combo seems very happy, was going to go to test and tune, but that will have to wait till summit gets me a new 70 dollar motor for the wp. Hard to tell on the street, but felt very strong. Was happy to see the motor take all 1180cfm with not a hick up minus the 3000 blarble . Not 100% happy with idle yet. Motor seems happiest at 1 turn out on the idle screws, but dies instantly in gear, at 1.5 goes into gear and idles but motor doesn't sound as smooth. Went up 8 sizes on the idle air bleeds, not much help, gained from 1.25 out to 1.5 out. Looks like some ifr adjustments and some port 5 work to get my mid range lean issue under control. Pics coming as soon as I get the wiring cleaned up and finished.
Almost ready, just the old temp gauge to go and the clean the year worth of dust off everything and shone her up for some play time
Was hoping to get out on friday, but once again issues came up. First we got the trailer painted this week after the new fenders on and new bushing and equilizer......only half the lights worked. I wanted to download a pull from the ignotion to know where is stored it and how to read all it. Warmed the car up, went down to the stop sign, turned around stopped about half home, engaged the transbrake, it worked, got on the 2 step, it worked, back off disengaged the brake, rolled into the throttle.......won't go over 4000, sounds like a nasty Rev limiter. Went home pulled the data the msd grid was easy to use in this order........but no clue why no rpm..... as looking the temp started going up again......looked at the water pump, barely turning.....the brand new moroso motor that was turning so fast was hardly turning.......thing has maybe 10 minutes of run time. Clearly not mention to go racing. Called ta and had them express ship me a 400 dollar actual pump, not just as add on motor. Got looking yesterday and found my rpm issue, when I ran the wire for the temp gauge I put it in a loom with the wire for my oil pressure and water temp, I also slide to dist. pick up wire in the same look for a cleaner look. Well that put the pick up too close to the spark plug wires, moved the pick up wire out of that loom and a few inches from the spark plug wires and I now have my rpms. So I'm waiting on ups to get me my new pump should be Wednesday and we will try again
