Recently had car alignment done. Was told they "modified" the original alignment spec, sincerunning radial tires now. Was told biggest change was to the caster. Car seems to be "jumpy" and seems to want to hold in position a little. It's not enjoyable to drive, especially with roads that have wheel depressions. Steered fine last year, only upgrade was a quick ratio box. I removed that box and reinstalled box used last year, same symptoms. Do other have a modified spec for the cars, or should original specs be used, instead of, "trying to improve. Should I tell the shop to just use original specs? Thanks for any help and in put, only have couple weeks to get a handle on this before alot of miles coming up for shows and cruises. Thank you.
alignment specs had to be experimented with with the advent of radial tires. I worked for a trucking company back in the '70's & '80's . When they switched to radial tires on the front wheels of the truck, the tire company Michelin? (not sure), that company tested and tested various settings for several weeks until the tractors drove & handled safely.
1st. thing we need to know is yr. make & model???? Then can give an ESTIMATE of what the settings could/should be. Tom T.
It would help to know what exact specs they set you up with. However, I ask for as much positive caster as they can give, +5° is good for a daily driver if you have power steering and radials. I also like about -1/2° camber and 1/16 toe in. Now, assuming all other things are correct, not any worn parts like an idler arm or that sort, I'd suspect your toe needs adjusting. You might have some toe out which can make the car darty but take curves nicely.
That doesn't look too bad for a stock front end. All they did was equalize it. I'd still rather have a touch of negative camber and more positive caster. Is the steering wheel level when driving straight ahead?
Caster, as mentioned, as far positive as is possible within the adjustment range. Have the option of replacing the upper control arm shafts that give a positive or negative +or- 1 degree. In your car I would shot for +4 - +5 degrees CASTER Camber 0 to 1/2 degree negative both sides. The REAL PROBLEM with the steering is IT HAS TOO MUCH TOE-IN. At .180" each side = 360" = a total of almost 3/16ths. of an inch. Should be closer to 1/16th. to 1/8th. of an inch total. In between the 2 figures for a total of .008"-.009" each side or .016"-.018" total.THIS FOR SURE IS THE CAUSE OF THE "squirely" feeling. Just my thoughts. Tom T.
It does pull a little to left, wheel is a little off center, I will be passing all this information on to him, I really thank you be all for the input, this is why this board is so important to all of us, Thank You.
