Air bleeds

I want to play around with air bleeds on my AED carb. I’m curious if there’s a “ratio” between jet sizes and air bleeds, or are the two completely separate? These are what are in the carb from the factory.

 

When it comes to air bleeds this is kind of what I've figured out.....

Unless you are having drastically jet way over or under how the carb was built there isn't much point. Or unless you have an idle issue you cant tune in with the normal adjustments.

The way the bleeds work is they are a fixed metering amount of air that mixes with the gas on it's way through the carb.

So going larger bleed lets more air in making the mixture leaner and smaller will make the mixture richer.

Going 1 or 2 numbers is so small you wont notice much at all.

 

In a word, no!

 

Saw this thread this morning , interesting .
My knowledge on air bleeds is "bigger = lean , smaller = rich" . And that's it . When I redo them I put them back to spec and then I warn customers straight up to do their homework before making any changes .
The standard Holley DP carbs are good without them . Air bleeds are a selling point . Probably ok for picky race only carb guys looking for that last 1 horsepower . Or in Dyno speak , 100 horsepower .
If I was going to suggest anything I'd say optimize tune with jet changes and then maybe play with some bleed changes and see if there's a difference .
And what you said about the correlation between jetting and bleeds ? The jetting is fuel volume , but can bleed change affect the volume coming through the jet or just the mix ?
Holley voodoo .
2 cents .

 

maybe if you had that TA510 cam in there you might have to mess with those. but I would not unless I did a lot of reading first to figure out exactly how they work and why I should change them.

You need a 373 gear in there hell 410 with that 7000 rpm upshift. I bet you turn no more than 4200 in the traps with your gear.

 

I've been considering that.

 

Good question, I guess Im fidgety I suppose.
Maybe I should leave well enough alone

 

I need to fine tune my Holley as it is slightly fat now.
Better fat than too lean. Plugs are burning very clean. That extra few h.p. by running lean/ optimal doesn't mean much on the street.
No trophies or prize money handed out.

 

Mine look good also, Im probably barking up the wrong tree.
Im so resistant to changing my rear gear, guess Im looking at the engine, when maybe the engine is optimized for what it has, EXCEPT for the aluminum heads.
Theres my question, Aluminum heads with full on port job, whether from TA or buy bare castings and have Michaels Racing build 'em OOOOOR, way deeper gears, and overdrive which I feel would be more money than aluminum heads being the 2004R trans cost more to build up, plus my T350 is already built by Janis, and I have my convertor from JW.
I was considering a 4.11 geared complete 12 bolt from Monzaz, I could swap in when wanted, but that's going to cost near the price of aluminum heads, and a lot of my labor swapping, kind of a stupid idea since I don't have tons of money to have a couple thousand dollar rear sitting around most if the time doing nothing.
Im thinking heads

 

I gotta stop thinking of ways to improve stuff, HAHAHA
I'll concentrate on finishing my modified oil pan
Larry, you going to the Buick Bash this year?

 

You can do a gear vendor's od unit. Not cheap either but will go right on what you already have

 

The 8.5 10 bolt is more than capable unit, no need to drop 12 bolt coin.......that is al ost as much as a GV OD