Who makes tall spindles with a 1" drop for 68-72's (AFX)? I cant justify the $1200 for the Speedtechs so l'm looking for alternatives.
Thanks for the replies guys. Smokey, what do those later spindles do to the geometry of earlier cars? Sailbird, how does the b-body swap feel? I've read the bump steer is worse than the already poor factory setup. Is it really noticeable?
CPP makes a tall spindle that uses C5 hubs but don't have any drop in them. 1" drop is easy to get from a spring swap or cut and won't really limit your travel or alignment. Part #CP0013 www.classicperform.com Josh
I think the bump steer stories are made by people that have not done this. Everyone that drives my car says it the best A-body they have ever driven. I do use a big front sway bar (1 3/8) Only "adjustment" I have made is to put in 1/2 inch spacer under the springs because the drop was more than I wanted. The front springs are Global West 600# springs. Perfect with 455.
You need shorter upper control arms (Global West) to keep proper geometry. It gave us more camber/castor adjustment. We did this to my wife's '68 Culass convt., along with poly bushings. We also added a '79 Z/28 steering box (had to change pitman arm and adjust bump stops) It made a world of difference.
The car handled great. We had a way shorter turning radius until I took it to the alignment shop and they changed the stops in the steering box.
Both Smokey and I are telling everyone that the bump steer using Global West uppers with "tall GM" spindles is not a problem. The Z28 steering boxes are a problem if the stops are not changed. I used a Jeep box and did not have to change the stops.
Thanks Josh, I looked at those and I'm considering them. I understand they're a stock height pin but are going to be available in a 2" drop someday. The corvette compatibility is a nice bonus and the price is very good. I'm looking for a 1" drop spindle because I already have 1" drop springs and a +0.5" lower ball joint. With my superscavenger headers I can't go much lower. I suppose I could use a 2" drop spindle and then shim under the springs. A half inch shim would regain 1" in height but I'd like a 1" spindle if it's available.
I understand the B-body steering arm (cast in) is both longer and the wrong height for the A-bodies which causes radius and bumpsteer issues respectively. Sounds like it's not really noticeable from others experience but it's not something I want to get into when there are better options now days.
It would be nice to have a spindle that is better. But a spindle alone will not do a lot of good unless you have some way to change the geometry due to the location and shape of the upper a-arms. Also it is going to get harder to find a nice spindle from a yard as the years go by.
Amen to the yards drying up. I live in the Great White North and most B-bodies were rusted out and crushed long ago. As for geometry changes I plan to get A-arms appropriate for what I'm doing. Probably the SPC upper with turn buckle adjusters and BMR lowers. The BMR lowers have extra caster build in so I wont have to get all the extra caster from the upper arms - and end up with wheels rubbing the back of the inner fender (seen it before). Hopefully there is a 1" drop tall spindle out there with a respectable price. Maybe $350-500? Ridetech are you listening?
Yes you do have a problem with reduced clearance at that point with the old style uppers. On mine it gets close enough that I replaced some body bolts with button head bolts. You need to keep the tire diameter at 26 inches.
