Looking at front upper control arms and wondering what are the advantages of an ajustable version, Not doing any racing just upgradeing suspension. I have finished the rear suspension upper and lower control arms with UMI prosucts. And need some input with the front, I'll be useing stock spindles and from what I've read here the bottom control arms should be fine.. So why the Adjustable version??? Leo
Differrent ride height, weight distribution and suspension stiffness call for different setups. Most people will probably be very satisfied with the fixed tweaked tubular arms from Hotchkis, UMI etc. (Though I have not tried any, yet ...) But the true nerd who is building a track day car should without a doubt go for fully adjustable suspension as far as possible. If you build a car with fixed geometries and are not happy with tire wear, you need to adjust the geometry.
I'm curious if anybody has used the upgraded tubulars and felt the need to switch to the adjustables. I think going from stock to tubulars would be more than enough for a street driven car.
I was thinking along the same lines logan, The upgrade from stock to tubular would be fine. Just noticed adjustable version priced the same figured what the heck if I'm going to get it for the same price.... Leo
The spc uppers have the easiest alignment method, no shims SPc is pretty much the most versatile when equipped with their lowers on adjustment cushion..more so with coil-overs/air ride can use spacers to dialin ride height The UMI adjustables Pn 4056-3 you can easily change caster/camper by the crossshaft clipping on how it works from umi themselves Once the cross shaft is bolted to the car, it can remain there. Bolts go in from the side to hold the rod end on. To adjust, you loosen one jam nut then remove one bolt at a time and flip the rod end up. Adjust the rod end and put it back down. There is enough articulation that you can remove just one at a time. We like the turnbuckle idea used in other products but this is nice and simple and bulletproof. Thanks for the interest! -- Ramey to me just flip them up to gain and go to track for extra edge..put them back for street I know you said you just did the rear but UMI just recently released their Roto Joint bushing kit for the axles upper ears for better articulation/bind free think theyre cheaper then Curries/SC&C Johnny-joint rear bushing kit
Got the Front upper control arms from UMI, 0.9 taller ball joint adjustable. The rear arms I went with Spohn performance with their adjustable roto joint version. Almost done suspension and brake conversion, I can start to see the lite at the end of the tunnel.......... Leo
You'll have to let me know how you like those adjustable front uppers. I'm going back and forth on whether I want to do the .9 tubular uppers or the .9 adjustable uppers. Did you use an aftermarket lower A-arm?
I'm thinking I can use my stock lower arm, Looks beefy enough and from what I've heard here should work just fine. Trying to save money but if need be I'll get the UMI lower arms.. Took advantage of the 15% off sale for UMI and Spohn performance, Bit by bit I catch the sales when I can. This project along with the front brake conversion will finish my suspension and brake upgrade. The motor is out and disassembled the tranny is out should be ready to begin that rebuilding process this spring... Leo
That's the same way i've been doing mine. One more sale and I'll have my suspension put together haha. What are you using for brakes?
I have the Wilwood 4 piston dynalite pro-series kit, Added brake booster master cyl and prop valve from In-line tube. Only stuff I need are Shocks springs and new tie rod ends etc. Looks like a warm-up is due here in Massachusetts too cold for me to work on the Buick right now so when the UMI order arrives it will sit next to the Wilwood brakes and the In-Line tube box's Leo
I'm looking for an arm to use on the street. Its not clear which arms can be used with the .9" ball joint. Umi only does the adjustable one now.
