A first timers guide to a performance SBB

Discussion in 'Small Block Tech' started by Darryl Roederer, May 4, 2005.

  1. Darryl Roederer

    Darryl Roederer Life is good

    Details, details, details.....

    Details, details, details.....
     
  2. Darryl Roederer

    Darryl Roederer Life is good

    Complete costs overview

    Complete costs overview
     
  3. Darryl Roederer

    Darryl Roederer Life is good

    Graduation day is at hand!

    Graduation day is at hand! :Smarty:
     
  4. Darryl Roederer

    Darryl Roederer Life is good

    Replacing the timing chain, cam, upgrading the oil pump, and a 4V swap

    Replacing the timing chain, cam, upgrading the oil pump, and a 4V swap.

    Let's say your car has a pretty good running, solid engine in it. You dont need to pull the engine out, rebuild it, etc, etc... But you would like a little more performance... Or maybe you just want to upgrade the oiling system and replace the timing chain while your at it.

    This is the section for you.

    All of the above can be done with the engine still in the car, and can be done by a total novice in just a day or two.

    Tools required for this section:
    A nice collection of basic hand tools
    A Torque wrench
    A gasket scraper
    A drill

    Parts required for this section:
    High volume oil pump kit
    Timing chain with both gears
    Water pump
    Timing cover gasket
    Oil pressure sending unit
    A new fuel pump
    A container of petrolium jelly
    #1. Drain oil and coolant
    #2. Remove 4 [1/2 inch] bolts holding the fan to the water pump pulley. Wiggle the fan loose, and set it inside the fan shroud.
    #3. Remove the radiator cover plate
    #4. Remove upper and lower rad hoses
    #5. unbolt fan shroud and wiggle it loose. Carefull, the fan is still down inside it and could damage the radiator. Unbolt tranny cooling lines from rad.
    #6. Remove radiator [carefull, it's fragile]
    #7. Remove fan shroud and fan
    ****Time to start BLS procedures****
    #8. Loosen bolts holding acessories [A/C, P/S, etc] to remove belts
    #9. Unbolt A/C and P/S assemblies[that means brackets still attached], and set them aside. BLS the bolts.
    #10. Put 15/16 socket on a breaker bar. Put socket on harmonic ballancer bolt, wedge the breaker bar against the drivers side frame rail, and have a friend BUMP the starter to break the bolt loose. BE CAREFULL!!!!!!!!! Keep hands and arms clear when doing this!
    #11. Dis-connect wiring harness from alt and oil pressure sending unit. Dis-connect positive battery terminal.
    #12. Remove alternator and bracket. BLS
    #13. Wiggle ballancer loose, and place bolt back in the crank snout.
    #14. Remove distributor cap, set back on carb. Rotate crank w/ 15/16 untill distributor points to #1 plug position. Make a mark on distributor housing indicating #1 position.
    #15. Remove 9/16 bolt holding distributor to the timing cover. Remove wires from distributor. Remove distributor, BLS.
    #16. Remove "S" shaped hose going from back of water pump to thermostat housing. BLS
    #17. From under car, remove oil pan bolts on front of engine that go into the timing cover. Also, dis-connect fuel lines to pump.
    #18. Remove bolts holding water pump, remove water pump.
    #19. Remove remaining bolts holding timing cover to engine. A couple of them are hidden in little crevaces that are probably filled with grease.
    #20. Remove timing cover from engine with oil and fuel pumps still attached. BLS [Remember, it's full of oil, so be carefull where and how you lay it down.
    #21. IMMEDEATLY scoop a couple fingers full of petrolium jelly, and fill the 2 holes that go from the oil pump to the engine block. This is to keep any crap from getting into the system.
    #22. Remove the bolt in the center of the cam tming gear that holds the fuel pump cam [the wierd looking thing], and BLS.
    #23. Slide the upper timing gear off the cam, along with the lower gear and chain.
    #24. Wad up a shop rag and stuff it down inside the oil pan opening so no crap gets in there when you scrape the gaskets.
    #25. Scrape the timing cover gasket completely off the block. It's important you remove all of it because pressurized oil and coolant pass thru this area, and a leak could develop if you dont get it perfect.... PITA :moonu: [wire brush on a drill works nice!
    #26. Clean up gasket material, and clean out any of it that stuck to the petrolium jelly in the oil passages. Remove shop rag from oil pan.
    #27. Dis assemble front timing cover. Oil pump and fuel pump... Go ahead and do your self a favor, and take it to the machine shop to have it hot-tanked. Only a few $'s, and much more pleasant to work with shiney clean parts. Also, if you buy your Hi-Vol pump kit from the same shop, you might be able to talk them into assembling it for you :TU:
    #28. Follow manufacturers directions to re-assemble new iol pump. be sure to pack it with lots of petrolium jelly!!!!!! [this is where you need the drill]
    #29. Inspect the key's in the crank and cam. Usually there fine, but if they look worn, damaged, or funny, replace them.
    #30. Replace timing chain and gears, as per manufacturers instructions. Line up timing marks precisely!!!!!!
    #31. Working backwards from the above steps, re-assemble the engine, with one exception... Install the fuel pump AFTER the timing cover is bolted to the engine
     
    Last edited: May 29, 2005
  5. Darryl Roederer

    Darryl Roederer Life is good

    Fuel injecting your SBB

    Fuel injecting your SBB

    Well all right!!! We have made it this far, and by now you fancy yourself a pretty hip shade tree mechanic. You know your buick inside and out. Every square inch of it has seen your caring and capable hands..... But something is missing. You just cant put your hands on it, but for some reason, you just feel like your driving around a dinosaur.

    Oh, dont get me wrong, it runs great! It's a blast to drive, and all your friends dig it to the max! .........But you just wish there was some way to bring it up into the 21st century so you would have something to talk about when your "import tuner" friends start talking about their computer controled rice rockets.... Just something ...like...... Fuel injection!!!!

    Well have I got some news for you! Just click the link below, educate yourself, and start building that space aged street rod!

    http://www.msefi.com/index.php?c=2
     
    Last edited: May 8, 2005
  6. Darryl Roederer

    Darryl Roederer Life is good

    The ultimate sin... upgrading to a big block

    The ultimate sin... upgrading to a big block,,, but with a difference :Brow:

    There's been enough written on putting a 455 in a skylark, and if that's your thing, well,,, That's ok with me.

    So instead of re-hashing the same old swap information, I'm going to let you in on one of my little secrets.

    The small block 350 buick is the Rodney Dangerfield of all V8's... It simply dont get no 'respect. Especially from the big block buick guys, but I'v found a way to shove it right back in their faces..... BIG BLOCK CADILLAC POWER!!! :Brow:

    There are at least 3 major problems with the 455 buick.
    #1. If you can find one [they are getting very rare], it usually needs a complete, and expensive overhaul
    #2. When you do find one, it's usually still bolted to a good running car that's in too good of shape to part out... And it's expensive to buy the whole thing just for the engine.
    #3. The 455, tho powerfull and capable, is quite possibly the poorest engineered, from a structural integrity standpoint, of ALL the big blocks ever. Once these things start reaching over the 600 hp level, the block is little more than a hand gernade just waiting to spread shrapnel' all over the road.

    These 3 weaknesses with the 455 are the caddy's strong points.
    #1. When you find one, it's usually still running strong,,, Cadillacs were sold new to "upscale" people who expected the best, so GM over-engineered and over-built these engines to the extreme. As a result, a caddy engine with 100k miles on it is usually still in the prime of it's life.
    #2. Old cadillac's are somewhat "passe". There expensive to maintain and hold little resale value, so if you find one still in the car, it's usually quite affordable
    #3. Part of the over-building and over-engineering that I talked about in #1 carries over to the "structural integrity" of the caddy engine. The block has the same nickel content as a chevy bow-tie race block, the cranks are practically indestructable, and many a caddy has been built with stock parts making 600+ ft/lbs of torque with no problems whatsoever.

    There are however, at least two weak points with the caddy motor.
    #1. the rods are cast armasteel. While this is pleanty strong for a stocker, if your gonna build over 500 hp [which is very easy] or going to add nitrous, the stock rods will have to be replaced with forged units.
    #2. Because it's a cadillac... And not a 454 chevy, there simply are not many aftermarket performance parts available...... Unless you know where to look.

    Another small problem with the caddy motor is that because they were installed in full sized cars only, your going to have to locate an oil pan and oil pick-up tube from a FWD eldorado,,, or buy a complete 'eldo as a donor car.

    Here are two links to the premiere big block caddy aftermarket companies:
    www.500cid.com
    www.cad500parts.com
    Read these two sites over completely, because the caddy is not a direct bolt in... But it is no more trouble to install than any other BB conversion.

    Another fantastic advantage to a caddy conversion is that the distributor, and the vast majority of sensors and acessories are in the same locations as a 350 buick, so your stock wiring harness JUST MIGHT get the job done with a minimum of modifications.

    What follows is a very quick overview of installing a caddy mill in place of your 350, along with a cost break-down of what it will cost if everything goes right, and there are no problems with the swap.

    :Smarty: Professor Buick Says:
    First, you will need to locate a 472-500 caddy engine, but there's a little problem with that. If you find an Eldorado, it will come with the correct oil pan and pick-up tube, but the exhaust manifolds wont fit into a RWD car. Also, the starter on an 'eldo bolts to the bellhousing, not to the block, so you will need a RWD caddy starter. All Eldorado's built between 1969 and 1977 had the 500 cid motor. All RWD caddy's built between 1968 and 1974 had the 472. All caddys built between 1975 and 1977 had the 500, except the seville. From 1977 up, caddy's used a 425 or 368 cid engine that looks [externally] like the earlier 472-500, but has a much thinner block and weaker crank. Avoid these.

    #1. In a perfect world, you would like to locate a 1975 RWD 500. Sitting next to it in the junk yard would be a 1980 Eldorado with a caddy 368 that you could get the oil pan, pick-up tube, HEI, and intake manifold from [it's a single plane].

    #2. Next, you need to visit an Oldsmobile web site, and purchase a set of used 7.0 inch 'olds connecting rods. The 'olds rods are forged, where the stock caddy's are cast. While the cast caddy rods are some fine rods, and are good to about 550 hp and 5500 rpm, the forged ones are just cheap insurance IMHO. Besides, the olds rods will allow you to use off the shelf, and MUCH CHEAPER BBC 454 pistons, that are available forged instead of the caddy's best available hyperutectic, or outrageously expensive custom forged.

    #3. After getting everything dis-assembled, cleaned up, and inspected, it's time to visit the machine shop. The block will have to be decked .015-.020 to work with the olds-bbc stuff. The olds rods will need the small ends opened up to .990 to work with the BBC piston pins, and the block will have to be bored to work with whatever oversized BBC pistons you want to use. Naturally, the heads will need a complete going over, and the stock valve-springs replaced with performance ones. [VERY important... Stock caddy valve springs float at about 4000rpm] Plus all the usual engine rebuild machine work.

    #4. Now it's time to go shopping. You will need a set of flat top BBC pistons [for the 120 cc heads, or dished blower pistons for the 76cc heads], forged of course, with a set of rings. A set of oldsmobile rod bearings, and caddy mains, a caddy timing set, lifters, gaskets, etc. [this combo will yield about 9:1 compression..... PERFECT :TU: ]

    #5. "The custom stuff"...
    Decking the block that much will require one of three things... A custom re-ground reduced base circle cam, a custom set of short push rods, or a really expensive adjustable rocker setup... We will go with the re-ground cam because it's the cheapest way out.
    Your also going to need a special oil pump sold by CMD that allows this engine to fit into your skylark, and an installation kit that bolts the caddy mill to your frame. MTS sells the cheaper one @ $89.95, and I think it's a bolt in kit, where the one from CMD is a weld in.
    A couple of other things,,, a set of early 70's eldorado motor mounts, a set of BB front suspension springs, and an electric fan for the radiator.

    #6. The performance stuff
    Have the cam reground to a performance profile that suits your needs. You dont want to go over about 286*-290* of duration [230-234* @ .050] and .540 lift with the stock rocker assembly. I feel a split profile 276* intake, 280* exhaust and about .530 lift on a 112* centerline would be a wonderfull street performance cam.
    Caddy heads are designed for low RPM torque, and dont flow particularly well. Anything you can do to the heads as far as porting, polishing, bowl blending, etc. can only help performance. But even if you do nothing but a stock rebuild, this motor is still going to make 450hp and 550tq... That's enough for almost anybody!
    NITROUS!!! NITROUS!!! NITROUS!!! You want to buy a 200hp nitrous plate kit to go under the Qjet. Yes you do! That's the whole reason behind going with the forged rods and pistons. This will give you a total of about 600hp and 700tq!!!!!! If your not going to use nitrous, no need to upgrade to the forged internals! Caddy engines LOVE nitrous for some reason :Brow:

    More to come later... Parental duties call.
     
    Last edited: May 20, 2005
  7. sean Buick 76

    sean Buick 76 Buick Nut

    Holly cow! This is great, it's like profesor Buick is right here helping me allong. Oh wait he is!!
     
  8. Darryl Roederer

    Darryl Roederer Life is good

    Professor Buick..... Hmmmm.
    Carefull Sean, this could go to my head :laugh:

    Seriously tho- I'v only completed 3 sections of the 23 that need to be done, and those 3 have taken me a week so far. This may be a several month project of late nights and long weekends :sleep:

    Oh crud... I'v jumped off the deep end nce again :Comp:
     
  9. Darryl Roederer

    Darryl Roederer Life is good

    I'm going to call it a night.... That's enough for now :sleep:
     
  10. meanmotor74

    meanmotor74 mmm.....pineapple

    Man you do a lot in a few days! If that was me it might have taken a few months....to write the first few paragraphs.... :laugh:

    Thanks Darryl :3gears: You da man!

    Patrick
     
  11. GSXMEN

    GSXMEN Got Jesus?

    Darryl - Speedomotive has a decent page on ''Starting a New Engine".
     
  12. Lark72sb350

    Lark72sb350 Well-Known Member

    Darryl is the man

    Darryl,

    You are the man!!!!!

    I am eagerly waiting for your next class. Great info for a newbie and a good refreasher for those who do not do this often. Keep up the good work.

    Richard

    P.S For the mods on this section this would be the mother of all sticky notes!!!
     
  13. DEADMANSCURVE

    DEADMANSCURVE my first word : truck

    this would explain the caffeine and cigarettes thing . very ambitious , thanks . del
     
  14. Darryl Roederer

    Darryl Roederer Life is good

    Scott, Thanks for the link.
    That's the EXACT kind of thing I'm looking for.

    Hopefully, I'll have a couple more sections completed this weekend.

    No "class" tonight,,, Professor Buick had one HELL of a day at work :sleep:
     
  15. meanmotor74

    meanmotor74 mmm.....pineapple

    Wow you really do earn the name 'Professor Buick'!!!! :TU: :Smarty: :3gears:

    I've read everything so far and think your doing a wonderful job!

    Patrick
     
  16. Darryl Roederer

    Darryl Roederer Life is good

    I wish I had time to work on this... Time or energy :sleep:
     
  17. buick350

    buick350 Well-Known Member

    hey darryl,
    i was looking trough the ''shes alive'' section and noticed u wrote u build a couple of wild 350s.545hp and a 450 horse one.i wanted to ask u if u could put ur recipe for these build ups?? me myself am really interested in ur 450hp with 125 shot of nitrous build up.i was very happy when i saw u said it lasted for years cause thats exactly what i want to build but i was scare it wouldnt last that long.im looking for 400-450 horse and 500-525 on juice.hoping for low 12s mid elevens on juice and mid 12 to high 12s all motor. and dont care for streetability.u think its obtainable??
     
  18. Gr8ScatFan

    Gr8ScatFan ^That Car Is Sick^

    Wow, those have got to be the longest posts ever. I read 3 of them and my knowledge on the Buick 350 multiplied by 1,000,000.
     
  19. Darryl Roederer

    Darryl Roederer Life is good

    Thanks Steve,
    I wish I had more time to work on them.
    Single parenting, own and operate my own company, just bought a farm- and now I need to build a house on it, keeping up with book-keeping and finances, and keeping all my vehicles on the road eat up about 18 hours of each day.... Not much time left over for the "hobby". [Duh... Buicks of course]
     
  20. mk333

    mk333 Well-Known Member

    Hi Darryl. I was wandering if you could answer a question for me. I have just purchased a 70' skylark with a vinyl roof. Now, I have noticed 2 things; leaking only in a downpour, or when I wash it, from a small spot at the top of my windshield and the same at the rear windshield. There is no rust in the trunk though, but the package tray is warped and water damaged. And the second thing is, the previous owners have sealed that "ledge" on the rear window but the vinyl has bubbled. How do you remove the vinyl without stretching it or ruining it?
    thanx for your time,
    Mike
     

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