Discussion in 'Got gears?' started by got_tork, Aug 22, 2019.
Have any of you guys installed 8.8 in 64-67 A-body?
Way too much modifications needed when there is a good selection of A-body rear available. The 8.8” Ford is a good rear,but the GM 8.5” will do the same.
on leaf spring rig they are great. Good gear ratios too for a quick street car. there are kits sold that will 3 and 4 link them.
Supposedly fox 8.8 rears go in g body's pretty easy so I can't see why they wouldn't be close there. Geometry may be off though.
Easy? I do not think so. I would being doing this all the time. The geometry on the upper ears is WAY off. I seen one in ...did not like the set-up.
You have to buy all the control arms etc. For a rear that is not any better than the GM 8.5.... Fords 8.8 is a literal copy of a 8.5 GM corp rear and 12 bolt Chevy ...BUT again FORD failed on the 8.8 posi. like they did on the 9" trac lock.
Good luck on the swap. Jim
J D Race
every rear can be made to work...How much do you want to do and how much money will determine what you want to try.
I might be wrong but isn't the rear pinion bearing on the 8.5, 8.8, and 8.875 all the same size and use the same part number????
If so pinion shaft is same diameter, and ring gear is almost the same, not seeing much benefit to do alot of work to get it in.
They can be had with 3.55 or 3.73 gears, Posi, disk brakes, and 31 spline shafts all factory for a couple hundred bucks around here. More work on setting up the upper mounts but with the cost savings on everything else I think its a great swap for a small amount of fab work. They are C clip axles. Aftermarket alloy axles are available for it now also.
You can get 3:55 and 3:73 for the 8.5”,so gear availability is not the benefit.
Yes you CAN get it. But every disk brake explorer 8.8 I ever seen is 3.55 or numerically higher gearing. so a gear change usually isn’t needed. Where the 8.5 can be pretty much anything
Those disc brakes do work,but in a performance application I would think you might want something with more pads and caliper size than what the explorer comes with. But for sure better than drums
Might be a better deal for a leaf sprung Mopar or Amc. Same bolt pattern - 4 1/2"
I can't speak for an explorer axle in an a body, I was only thinking of the fox body axle since they share a similar rear suspension setup. How would you weld ears for the uca's on the cast center section? I have an explorer 8.8 in my s10. Little wider but bolted in like it belonged there.
There is a welding process by you heat up the cast and weld with a high nickle content rod. or there is a truss made that you weld to the axles. Thinking outside the box.
I am not trying to make a war ... but people have to know the truth about installs and the reason Brian and I give the info ...be it be bad or good or what you want to hear or not.
No way did it bolt in like it belonged there... The pinion is offset by 3" the drive shaft will not go down the center of the truck and if you did get the drive shaft center the driver side is sticking out by 3"
We did these swaps years ago and never just bolted one in with out all these mods.
You have to narrow the driver side and use two passenger axles to do this swap correct.
The exploder rear is a 4 x 4 and is offset to the passenger side in a ford .
Spring perches are not in the correct center line as s-10
wheel bolt pattern is wrong (can buy rims I guess)
different u-bolts will be needed... modify the shock plates to fit the wider u-bolts needed.
Need the driveshaft flange coupler if you did not get that from the junk yard off the exploder (which is connected to the driveshaft)
As We say you can MAKE any rear fit - just depends on the Labor and cost to get it done. I my business that is a huge factor as to what we can sell for the price we can put it all together for.
I like 8.8 rears, but they are much more work to get into GM vehicle because they are FORD rears. Ford is always doing some kind of goofy crap to fit the rears under the vehicle they make.
BUT then again am A GM guy so I am Bias...lol
Please do not think I am just picking on you...Just using this post as an example.
I agree the 8.8 is good unit, many mustang's best the stuff out of them, but I dont think they are any stronger than an 8.5 or 12 bolt, yes they can be picked up cheap which makes it nice to think about. I did this same homework for my car and I stuck with the 8.5 because in the end it's just not worth all the hassle in my opinion
I see little use in arguing, but I am aware of exactly what has to be done because I'm running one. It's the same width as a 4wd s10 rear, about 5" wider end-to-end than 2wd. Spring perches are within around 1/2", with my 2" solid blocks it dropped on. Used caltracs for a stock s10 rear, u bolts were not off so much they wouldn't go. The offset pinion does not move the driveshaft enough to cause any issues in the s10, though I did have to have 3/4" cut out of it. 275/60-15 drag radials on 15x8 wheels with 4.5" bs, stick out about 1.25", which isn't enough to make me hate it. If you couldn't live with it I'm sure a 5.5 bs would be enough. Yes, you have to deal with 5x4.5 pattern.
Drive shaft can not (I should say) / should not have that kind of offset... you put too much power too many time the u-joint is going to fail.
Driveshaft is not only going up and down from the transmission to the rear yoke it is going left to right... you can play with the roulette wheel ...I can not with my customers. (reference attachment of your picture i put red lines showing your offset)
This is like when the guys I try to help set up rears with out a dial indicators..."Well it is close enough" they say " it has a click noise. " Not one rear leaves with out a check of the backlash... you can not guess. It works but again for how long? As long as you are willing to take you consequences when things go bad (at 100 MPH it could be bad). I have kids now and just will not take those chances I use to when I was 19- 20 years old. I did the mini spool thing years ago... that too is rolling the dice and spinning the wheel. You guys ultimately make the decision... just here to tell you the reasons why they are not good choices or are good choices.
Good luck guys. Discuss away...I think I have done enough here.
Thanks for all the input guys.The reason I asked my buddy has a 66 LeMans with a 8.8 that the previous owner installed very crudely and I wasn't sure if it was because he was to cheap to buy upper control arms or it didnt line up.It was a running driving car up until couple a weeks ago when we pulled the 326 in preparation for 500hp 400 that we'll be dropping in.There is no way the way it is mounted that it would even stand a chance of staying under the car with that kind of power.
Jim, next time I talk to my buddy I will let him know as I'm sure we will be in touch as he also lives in Richfield.
Thanks for everyone's help and opinions.