When we replaced the gaskets & seals for the 350 in my '72 GS, used all Felpro gaskets. T/A supplied rear main gasket.
You used Olds engine specs, not Buick. If you torqued the bolts to 130, you need to replace the bolts. That's almost double the torque that the Buick head bolts take. Inspect the head. Make sure that you didn't crack or warp the head. Oil the bolts LIGHTLY. Too much oil will run off the bolt and could fill blind holes to the point of damaging the block when the bolt is torqued. Run a thread chaser, not a tap in the bolt holes and blow them out. Get a new gasket and bolts.
This has happened to me also. the gasket is upside down . Make sure the gasket follows couture of the block on the bottom. It matches up to a passage in the head. Study both and you should see the hole it seals. Also check oil level to make sure nothing leaked in pan. added picture of head and gasket. This is the hole that will leak. Dan
Thank thank thank you, great info tearing into it now will definitely be paying very close attention to this, so you put yours all back together and it was leaking, mine is leaking between cylinder 3&5 like underneath where the heater hot air port goes I really do hope this works I actually ordered a new gasket and new bolts as well. Wish me luck
Yes this one did but I think the mechanic that was assisting me is a Chevy guy but maybe he thought the arrow meant right side up and or position up
When mine puked up all its coolant due to the head gasket being on upside down, it was between about cylinders 4 and 6 on right side, but you may have one on right and the other on upside down.
Welp here’s my foolish update, today I finally got to retake the head and intake off and inspect it one more time, and ..... ding ding ding the winner is DR. Roger, the darn gasket was just like you said upside down, I really don’t know who to more ticked at myself because truthfully I could’ve done the job myself and saved a lot of money or the mechanic who I gradually helped but thought that he knew the orientation of how the gasket was supposed to go both times, maybe I should not have gave him a few brewskis before hand but sure enough when I pulled everything apart it did look almost right but the part that even says up wasn’t up in which I thought he saw because he mentioned it when I took the 1st and 2cd one out of the package, darn Chevy guys lol no Oh well What can u do?? I am happy now because I can still use this motor awhile while a put away a few of my pennies for a ls swap eventually, thanks all for your insight and reply’s, nothing like knowing that on this site someone always has a answer, you just gotta ask thanks Again
When you pull the motor for the swap keep the rods, timing cover, distributor and 800cfm carb (if 4 Barrel). Can get some $$$ from those. Or just build the Buick 350. Can be made to be pretty nasty for a small block.
Have really been thinking about doing that, whet would be some of the building blocks heads, intake, water pump, cam and lifters right? Just trying to get a good grasp and start to weigh the pricing and start budgeting
TA got 481hp from their setup. .600ish lift cam (roller?) 750 Holley headers 10.5:1 compression with their heads. mildly ported I believe. Think it was an sp3 intake. Keep in mind the 350 all iron weighs 75-100lbs less than a sbc while being stronger. And torquey-er.
Glad you figured it out and it was a simple fix. Yeah, I felt like an idiot when I did it, but luckily no one knew about it... until now.
Im difinatly gonna check into building this up I’ve been quoted for the ls swap between $3500-$5000 total but that’s no high performance parts added
Buick 350 essentially the same price. Go Buick. Just keep the bearing clearances on the tight side, (.002), do the oil mods, and it will be near bulletproof.
You will be closer to 7k for a good sbb roller cam setup, carb to pan. That's if you already have the block, crank, heads, & oil pan & do assembly yourself.
