Hello Matt, yes in a fuel injection application where more pressure is required the pump will fall short above 475 or so...but I'm carbureted ...good for about 600hp at the wheels.
Modifications for coil-over and Chicane bracket installation. Some pictures have notes attached for more detail.
Drove mine from Chicago to Deadwood SD last week. 2200 miles in all. It'll probably never be done but the mods on your suspension are pretty much in line with mine. Threw in a pic at the bottom from 95. Nice coincidence on cars.
Back together! Updated exhaust back on, shorties mated to old exhaust. More ground clearance but definitely does not sound as mean as the M/T Scavengers did :-/ Finally, got some caster, -camber and camber gain! Finally got good brakes! Tuning the suspension/alignment is next on the agenda after taking care of a fuel pressure fluctuation issue.....
Well, been playing with the fuel system for many days now, and not sure if I've got it licked. The fuel pressure starts dropping after driving ~10 min. it would drop from 6.5 to ~3.5 psi. Seems like when it heats up the pressure drops. I can adjust the regulator to get pressure back but after turning it off for a couple hours then starting it again results in 9+psi., and I have to back it back down. Here are some of the steps I've taken so far: Checked voltage drop of ground - it was 0.62 volts so I put a better ground on it, now it's 3.8 volts, did not help. Checked voltage drop of positive, it was all good at 2.7 volts Checked in-tank Walbro 255 pump, Amps were 5.2 with 13.8 volts providing 6.2 psi, but dropped to 3.8 Amps when as pressure dropped to 3.8psi Replaced the Aeromotive regulator, since I saw a small deformation at the return orifice...this did not help Insulated the fuel lines that go across the front of the engine to the carb inlets...temps went from 165*F to 158*F but did not fix problem Talked the company I purchased the pump from, they ended up sending me a new one. If course this was a fun fun job...and it did not fix the problem. Talked to Aeromotive guy and he suggested adding a third regulator, see initial fuel system sketch and updated sketch, don't know if this helped or not due to not being able to test drive yet. The setup now allows me to increase the pressure at the Aeromotive regulator and reducing/adjust each Dead head regulator as needed. Higher pressure is less likely to boil but either way it's a more adjustable setup than it was. Here are the sketches and picture....definitely getting close to testing the suspension and optimizing setup. Yeah, it looks complicated.... This has been one pain in the butt...hope to find out if all is good this week!
Is the gauge liquid filled? Imo, deadhead setups are always problematic, a return style will keep the fuel and pump much cooler
Good question! I actually drained the filled gauge at the 3rd regulator location this weekend. The Aeromotive guy suggested not to use filled gauge at the engine due to inaccurate readings. The (inside) driver gauge, on the Nitrous side, is electric.
Pressure drop is better but still no definitive solution. Now it only drops to 4.5 psi (from 7). Thinking it's the return being so close to the suction side sock at the bottom of the tank?