Ok i've been having issues with my brakes for about a year now. might be why it's been sitting in the garage so long. anway, when you stop the pedal has to go all the way to the floor and even then it's still barely stopping. We had the back drums turned last year and put new shoes on it. made a little bit of a difference. this time we're doing the front and had a hell of a time getting the drums off... only got one off in fact.. only to find out that the side we did get off was almost perfect.. as if it hadn't even been used. brakes are bled fine it seems.. at least the front's are. in need of a little uh... help. anyone got any ideas for what might be wrong? the front drum we did get off .. the shoes and all that inside weren't moving at all. they froze right up (probably over winter 2 years ago) we sprayed with brake cleaner.... ideas anyone? other than goto disc brakes. i simply cannot afford it at this point. as much as i'd like to.
Try bench bleeding the master (or bleeding it while in the car). If there is air in there, that would explain the poor braking and lots of pedal travel, plus it might even explain the frozen assembly in the front. I replaced my brakes and master, did some bench bleeding and WOW, what a difference. I then bled the master on my truck and same thing (it brakes like a totally different vehicle) Just my .02
any chance you could explain how you bled the master cylinder? brakes aren't my thing thanks for the quick response.
Yes, you disconnect the lines coming out of the cylinder. When you buy new masters you get a kit with it that has plasic fittings that you can screw in to the master (I kept a set I got with one of the masters I replaced long ago), someone will know where to get them, maybe even try asking someone at the local parts place. Then you attach some clear tubing to the fittings and route them right back into the master (don't want to spill that stuff on anything painted). Pump away until there are no bubbles (shouldn't take too long, maybe 10 long slow pumps, but pay attention to be sure). Then reattach the brake lines and bleed from the farthest to closest brakes (right rear, left rear, right front, left front). It's easy to do and can cure a problem that many aren't aware of. If it is the problem, I can guarantee the difference will be amazing! Good luck and I hope it works out for you!
Check your front and rear backing plates These cars are old. The brake shoes have travelled probably a million times. I had to replace my front backing plates a few years back because they were so worn, the shoes would slide into a slot in the plate and never come back to rest properly. There was a hole actually worn through each backing plate
well we rebled everything and it's a little better but not a lot. my next guess is it's the master cylinder.. unless i get some more suggestions over the course of the next week or so i'm gonna order a new master cylinder
Just a thought. I had a friend that has a similar issue and the bottom line was that there air in the proportioning valve, that you could not get by applying pressure and forcing it out. The answer was to gravity bleed the system. Which is to open up all 4 bleed screws at the wheel cylinder and let the fluid flow until it new fluid came out. Easy to see when the fluid is dirty. Don't get the master cylinder get empty else you get to re-bench bleed it. Didn't get a full pedal but did give a more solid pedal. As cheap as Master Cylinders are I would replace it then gravity bleed the system since will have air in the lines. Then pump bleed them. Gives you a chance to drink a beer or 2 while waiting for gravity to do it's thing. :beer
ya local autozone has a master cylinder for $16.. figure why not. backing plates seemed to be fine.. but if all else fails i will check that out if i have to start ripping tires off again.
