Realistically, the cylinders don't look too bad to me, unless those scuffs are real deep. I've taken motors to the machine shop with scuffing like that and the guy said "doesn't look too bad, you sure you want me to bore it"? But I really really hate any smoke out the tail pipe. There are still cross-hatch marks, suggesting it was honed and (hopefully) re-ringed not too long ago. Big question is if any of the cylinders are out of round or tapered. Also, hard to tell if the ring ridges were ever reamed or just how far they stick out. If in doubt, take it to a machine shop and get their opinion. You might mic the cylinders to see if it is still a virgin block, as that would tell you just what you can do with it as far as boring it, etc.
I might have to add that the engine you see in on the stand is not the same that is in the car. The spare engine is definitely "virgin" as it has never been apart. It bent a pushrod due to a failing plastic retainer on one of the rockers. But it has 2 stuck pistons and those bores look very off center from the underside. The original engine is still in the car but looks like it has a lot of miles on it. Initial plan was to rebuild the spare 73 engine but the off center bores worry me...this is why I asked for opinions if this view is common or not. I do not have a source for a sonic tester yet
Call various machine shops in your area to find out if they have one & how much they charge. It's not rocket science. A GOOD Sonic Tester can run between $1100.00 to $1500.00 or more. Don't use or buy a cheap one as they are normally not too accurate. One of the GOOD ones to use is made by Dakota Electronics. They aren't cheap by any means. IF you lived closer to myself I could measure it for you as I own one. Tom T.
Thanks...but in order to do that I would have to travel the atlantic Not so many machine shops around here and they have not much experience with buick blocks. What are your opinions on the pics of the bores?
of the 6 screws that hold the trans to the engine 1 was missing. The flexplate is cracked in two places near the screws. torque converter screws...1 was supposedly metric and forced into the converter at an angle... Oh man it really drove well for all the stuff I have found so far...
The '71 OW trans is a Stage 1 transmission. It is not a switch pitch. Great transmission if it still has its original valve body.
I know...but makes me cry everytime I hear it...previous owner had it removed to install a custom valvebody...it is lost somewhere in the shop he was letting the work do. They did write the guys name on it and "switch-pitch"...made me wondering. hence my question.
Dragged the numbers matching engine into the cellar and started to tear down. Found 0.030 over pistons. Look like TRW forged ones by the number. No markings on the top of the block so it's machined as well. When I turned the engine upside down a big chunk of cast metal fell out... and take a look at that front camshaft bearing... I will set this block aside as it's already overbored and the cylinders look worn again.
Actually it’s a w-30 transmission borrowed from Oldsmibile in early 71’s when there was a shortage of Stage-1 BB transmissions. It’s essentially the same transmission.
Well time for an update. After Sonic Checking my spare engine did not qualify for a performance build. So I turned to Jim Weise for a shortblock assembly. Blocks are rare and expensive over here and if assembled you still don't know what you get. By now I have disassembled the front of the car. Next is the firewall. but with so much holes in there it may require welding so I got to clean the interior as well... PICS: This is what it looks now: My youngest onewanted to take off the wheels today: Yes at the moment I am thinking about taking the front suspension off and redo it as well....
good progress you made so far ...it starts with a little job... next thing you know frame off and 50k gone
Thats the absolute best way to learn every single nut and bolt on the car! If a repair fails and YOU made it, theres no one to blame except.... well you know. How about all those standard tools you had to buy LOL! Turnabout is fair play haha... ws
So on a tool note, heres a dummy question...Ive got a bunch of socket sets in metric in either 1/4, 3/8, or 1/2" drives. If a European mechanic bought a set of standard sockets are they like 5, 10, and 15mm drive?? ws
no, the drives are inch. I have a complete toolbox like the ones the mechanics at work use. I only had to buy US wrenches and sockets. The great thing about those old cars is. when you have a complete set of standard tools you can dissasemble almost the whole car.
Since today is Swiss Natianal Holiday, wife took thge kids out in the morning so I had a couple of hours..todays progress: There are a few small pinholes on the drivers side underneath those nasty mats. Looks like I have a leak from the windshield or cowl. Not sure If I am going to cut and weld them or use 2K metal bondo stuff. From underneath the car everything looks like factory untouched and I don't want to mess that up. Going to clean everything up and check how much sheetmetal is left and then decide...
Is it possible to replace the main body bushings while the body is on the frame? The screws look good.. (no I do not want to take the body off )...If I had the space I'd do it...
I've done it a few times without removing the body. If it is not bad rusted, you can remove the bolts from below without oil, but usually they need penetrating oil before you try to turn loosen them. Otherwise, you run into a real pain trying to get them out (they just spin and don't come out). Oiling requires you get them from above, which requires drilling small holes in the trunk (2) and left and right interior (1 on each side- there are little lumps over the cage nuts) that allows you to spray oil on them. You spray them with penetrating oil and let them set for a day or 2. If the nut spins in their cage, you have to cut a decent-sized hole to get to the cage nut. For most of the rest of the bushings, you can oil them without drilling holes. There are videos on YouTube that show the procedure for swapping out body bushings without removing the body. If you can get the bolts all loose, you remove the bolts from one side, lift that side of the body up 5-6 cm, pull out the old bushing and put in the new ones. Then let that side down, put back in the bolts, then do the other side. Usually have to disconnect the transmission linkages to the steering column and a couple other things. Right side of the car is pretty easy to raise off the frame, but the left side can be tricky with the parking brake cable. Since the front of your car looks to be gone right now, it shouldn't be too hard.
Made some progress. The inner fenders and core support are sandblasted and primed in epoxy. Today I pulled out the dash and everything else attached to the firewall. I am unsure about the driver side front floor pan. might need replacing. Going to decide after cleanup. I really hate to remove the instrument cluster. It is by far the worst part of everything. And the electrical mess behind it is not much better (even when untouched factory) Pics: Does anybody know what this wire is for? it is cut off both under the dash and underneath the rear bench seatback:
