About a week ago I was [FONT=inherit !important][FONT=inherit !important]driving[/FONT] around. I eventually stopped at a store and when I came back outside and tried to start my [FONT=inherit !important][FONT=inherit !important]Skylark[/FONT][/FONT] it wouldn't start at all. I eventually went on to jump the car and it still wouldn't start. This time I went out and saw that the [FONT=inherit !important][FONT=inherit !important]headlights[/FONT][/FONT] wouldn't turn on either. It didn't matter how long I left the jumper [FONT=inherit !important][FONT=inherit !important]cables[/FONT][/FONT] on no progress was being made. I had no choice but to push her into a parking space. I went to work and bought a new battery and there was still not one bit of a difference. My coworker told me that it is more than likely a blown fusible link and told me how to find their location. After playing with the wires my car eventually turned on which made me ecstatic, but all I did was park it closer to my house. On the 71 the fusible links that connect onto the starter bolt are two wires that merge into one with an end that can be slipped right onto the bolt. Attached to these wires are two rubbery things which is what I assumed was the fuse. I cut out from the fuse up until the wire that merges onto the starter bolt so I could splice a new fusible link. What I bought were 2 14 gauge fusible links, two separate wires and my plan was to just make it so the both of them would go onto the bolt. When I wired it, guess what? The same exact thing happened. Guys I am really stressed about this and I really hope you guys can give me some insight. Was it the starter? I already cut up the OEM fusible link that attaches to the starter, am I completely out of luck on this? I still have it and could probably change up my wiring scheme. What I bought were two of these: http://napaonline.com/Catalog/Catalo...696_0366478520 Should I have gotten something else? If you need a picture of the OEM one I could take one with my phone, but I am completely lost here and could really use some insight.[/FONT]
You can get a 71 Chassis Service Manual here- http://www.teambuick.com/reference/library/71_chassis/ you might have to join not sure but you'll be able to get the electric schematic and track the problem down. I hope this helps good luck
Well, welcome to V8 Buick. I posted over on BuickForums in response to your question, so I'll repost it here. OK, on your 71, there are 2 fusible links. There are also 2 supply wires. One supply wire is a 10 ga., and the other is a 12 ga. The 10 ga. supplies everything in the car, EXCEPT the headlights. The 12 ga supplies JUST the headlights. Fusible links are nothing more than wire that is 4 sizes smaller than the supply wire, so the 10 ga gets a 14 ga fusible link, and the 12 ga supply gets a 16 ga. fusible link. The purpose of a fusible link is, it sacrifices itself in the event of a major short, so that you do not burn your car to the ground. Most fusible link failures are one or the other. Either you have no power to anything but the headlights, or, you have no headlights, and power to everything else. It is extremely important to differentiate between "Won't Crank", and "Won't Start". They are 2 different things. Also, if you do not have a copy of the 1971 Buick Chassis manual, you are severely hamstringing yourself. You can find them used on E Bay, in Reproduction Print, and even on CD ROM. The Chassis manual will show you how to methodically narrow down the cause of your problem. All you need is a multimeter, or a test light. That way, you replace what needs to be replaced instead of wasting your money, and frustrating yourself. See if you can better describe your problem, and I will try to help. So is it a won't crank, or won't start? Do you have headlights and no power to anything else?
Great information, the link I posted in post #2 is for a 71 Buick Chassis Manual you can download it there. Larry is correct the 2 fusible links are 10 gage and 12 ga .
Pete, The actual supply wires are 10 ga. (everything but headlights) and 12 ga. (headlights) Fusible links are just wire that is several sizes smaller than the supply wire, so that they do burn out and sacrifice themselves to save the wiring harness. The 10 ga. wire gets a 14 ga. fusible link, and the 12 ga. wire gets a 16 ga. fusible link
Ya I cought that that why I deleted that part of my post, I was too slow you and cought me. I can't get away with anything
Where do you recommend I buy these fusible links because all NAPA had were links that were 16 ga, so I just bought two of those instead. They did have a 14 ga fusible link, but it was the type that had the fusible link by the terminal that slides over the bolt. The 16 ga fusible links were the type that I could splice into each of the old fusible links that have 2 wires that merge into one. Could you give me like a walk through of some sort, because I tried installing them and I completely failed, what I did before was buy 2 14 ga ones and add them to each of the 10 ga headlight and power wires. So currently they are two terminals on the starter bolt and that plan failed miserably.
Thanks Alan, that's a good thread. Crowsville, you need to look around some more. 14 ga. and 16 ga. fusible links should be available. I've seen then them in the "HELP" packaging in many stores. In any case, what is the engine doing. Is it cranking and not starting, or is it not cranking at all? Do you have headlights? Do you have power to anything? How did it fail miserably? Here is one 14 ga. and one 16 ga. fusible link from JC Whitney. http://www.jcwhitney.com/dorman-universal-fusible-link/p3051579.jcwx?skuId=3402450&filterid=c1611j1 http://www.jcwhitney.com/dorman-universal-fusible-link/p3051579.jcwx?skuId=3402449&filterid=c1611j1
See, that's exactly what I'm confused about here, I am pretty sure those two will not work as that was what I did to my Skylark with no success. The OEM fusible link merges two wires into one. Would splicing two separate wires work? The style that I thought would work are the ones that look like these: http://napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BEL784694_0006414574 The only issue with this is that the biggest gauge in this style is 16. My headlights don't turn on and when I tried to start it I'd hear like a single click. After starting it with the two separate wires spliced it went from turning on my interior lights on upon opening the door and putting the key in to doing nothing at all and it has sat since then.
What type of fusible link you use has absolutely nothing to do with anything. Two separate wires or arranged the way OE does it will work exactly the same. Fusible links either work or they don't. Both those feed wires come off the + battery cable. You may have a problem with the ignition switch or starter solenoid, or starter. Are you sure the battery is fully charged?
I bought a brand new NAPA battery as soon as this issue came to be. I knew it was something else because as soon as I installed the new battery the problem still continued and the headlights wouldn't turn on. It was after I wiggled the wires near the starter bolt that my car finally turned on, allowing me to drive it to my house.
Just a thought but you can bypass the fusible link just to see if it starts and ether eliminate or confirm that as the problem. Just be real quick and ready to yank the wires out, I know its risky but at least you'll find out for sure.
Unless you did a bad job of connecting the fusible links, they should be fine. As long as both the 10 and 12 gauge feed wires are connected to the big lug on the starter solenoid, they will get power from the + battery cable. Your problem of no headlights is usually a bad fusible link. If you have a direct short somewhere in the headlight circuit, it will pop the fusible link. You need to examine the wires near the starter again. And then look at your headlight wiring.
Well, from where I cut it all I see are the two red/pink wires. It's really hard connecting the 10 ga wire, it's too thick to do a western union and there is no crimps I could fine that combine a 14 ga and a 10 ga wire, any ideas? If this fails then I can at least continue on searching for the issue, you have no idea how much you're helping me here. Schools about to start and I really need to get Black Betty turning those wheels again. haha
I tried to follow whats been done and got confused - suggest starting at beginning and going thru basics first, these should help. <center> </center> Trouble Shooting Flowcharts & Tests sent in by Jason Cook - GM Corp <center> </center> 1971 full Buick Chassis Manual - GM Corp
I dont want to overstate the obvious but ... ... when ever you are working on the starter THE FIRST ORDER OF BUSINESS IS TO REMOVE THE POSITIVE BATTERY CABLE. (EDIT - from the battery) This prevents you shorting out the positive line (and possibly frying your new fusable link) from the battery to the starter with a wrench/ratchet as you work in those cramped confines.
Headlight circuits do not normally have fusible links, they use circuit self resetting breakers. If they have a problem they will trip for a period and then reset and then trip again over and over again. The theory is that way the driver can get the car home or to a safe location and the headlight circuit is considered sacrificial to the driver and passenger safety.
In a 71 Buick Skylark, the headlight circuit has a fusible link. That is what we are talking about in this thread.
