I'm looking for some confirmation as my car is out of town a ways. I have a 70 skylark 350 2bbl that I swapped a 71 350 4bbl and rebuilt stock carb onto. It does not have the carb thermostat right now (still have 2bbl setup, no 4bbl setup). I believe that there is a cup that sits into the intake, and the coil sits in that cup with a gasket between the intake and cup right. Can the 70 2bbl choke thermostat cup and coil bolt to the 71 intake (my searching the forum makes it look like there was a change in 71?)? Assuming I tweak the rod so that it works. If not do any auto stores sell this stuff? 920-242-7232
As I recall, sometime in the early '70's, the choke system was changed to one using hot air, called an integral choke. Everything was on the carb, excluding the heat source. This sourced heated air from the exhaust crossover, and through the heated air cleaner. Does your set up require the housing for the coil to be mounted on the intake? Ray
Cups & choke differ from 70-71-72. I have a set-up available for a '71 4V. Nice cup, coil/cover with some scale & a new gasket. $40.00 + shipping.
No, it looks like I need the cup and the coil. Can I modify the carb to an electric choke and block off that exhaust port?
After looking at it more I would still be missing the cup. And the 4bbl holes are diagonal while the two bbl only has one bolt and a hook tab. Getting a 4bbl one sent, we'll see how that fits.
You have a 71 intake. No matter if it's 2 or 4 bbl, it will fit as long as it's from a 71. Nothing else from any other year will bolt on in its place.
I have an identical intake/choke stove on my '71 GS 350 that needs a new gasket. Does anyone know where I can buy a new one? If not, can anyone recommend the correct gasket material so I can make my own? Thanks
just did my 75 Regal 350 choke stove yesterday with copper Permatex, I haven't started it yet - I tried making a gasket before this from steel/fiberboard gasket material from Napa - it fit, but blew out within a few minutes ... I'm not sure this was meant to have a regular gasket I can't find anything about it in the dictionary sized 1975 Buick Chassis Service Manual either how is that copper sealant working so far? ... also, how tight do those two choke stove bolts need to be? - thanks
If you use the goop to make a gasket, make sure the flange on the choke itself is flat. Otherwise, it will burn out in short order. I hate this design. Not sure why they couldn't have done it like the 70 and earlier, where it was a cast tub and not a big hole into the exhaust crossover.
okay the Permatex copper "highest temp" goop seems to have worked instructions say to wait 24 hours before use - I gave it an extra 1/2 day - it sealed up nicely ... just did a 600 mile road trip in it and it's still nice and quiet up there - thanks for all the info this is the first time I've dealt with a choke stove - it becomes a very important thing when that thing leaks - it sounded like a locomotive with open headers
I had that same issue MULTIPLE times on my Skylark Custom convertible. It had enough corrosion on the manifold under the 'cup' that nothing worked. Finally had to have the intake manifold surface machined. No more leaks. Also, there is a member on here that repo's the gaskets, but memory fails me.
