'68 Riv Question - Fenders

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by Gary Anderson, Nov 23, 2019.

  1. Gary Anderson

    Gary Anderson Well-Known Member

    Can I unbolt the lower part of my fender(s) to access the letters and trim on them, but leave them attached at the top? I know the wheel well(s) are an issue, but do I unbolt the fenders from them, or disconnect them from the engine compartment somewhere?

    What's the easiest way so that I can prep for paint? Thanks!
     
  2. Gary Anderson

    Gary Anderson Well-Known Member

    Also, how does the Riv script on the trunk and hood come off? I don't want to start prying...
     
  3. 1969RIVI

    1969RIVI Well-Known Member

    Reach out to Briz, he knows alot about Rivs. I got my car de-badged and de-trimed with all holes filled so I couldn't tell you how to remove it?
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2019
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  4. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    With much patience the fender letters can be removed with a socket and ratchet from inside the area where the door hinges are. Believe its a 5/16 or 3/8 speed nut. Be carefull as they are prone to breaking the studs off and theres no replacements. The hood has a hole under each letter. one nut and a locating post. again be careful
     
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  5. Gary Anderson

    Gary Anderson Well-Known Member

    It looks to me like they were removed for a re-spray in the past (there's now peeling 2-stage paint on it and the letters clearly weren't taped off), so I'm hoping the letters' nuts won't fight back too much. But I have a hard time thinking I could get my hand and a ratchet in there from the door jamb. Plus, opening up the lower fender areas would allow me to clean the dirt and debris out.

    Another thing is I just found out the vacuum canister resides inside the DS fender. If it's faulty or if I can't get to it from the engine bay, I'll have to pull the fender anyway. Decisions, decisions...
     
  6. 1969RIVI

    1969RIVI Well-Known Member

    The DS fender will definitely have to come off in order to get the vaccuum canister/holding tank out.
     
  7. Gary Anderson

    Gary Anderson Well-Known Member

    And to that point, do they "go bad" often? My vacuum system has been pretty much disconnected everywhere, so I don't know what failed to make a PO give up on it.
     
  8. 1969RIVI

    1969RIVI Well-Known Member

    From what I've heard, read and experienced the vacuum headlight sytems are very finicky and do require alot of maintenance. My system was unhooked everywhere also, I pieced it back together but I think the cam I have is too large to supply enough vacuum to run the lights. There's enough for the power brakes though thankfully. Also the headlight canisters go bad and cost an arm and a leg to replace. I myself is removing all the vacuum lines and canisters and I'm installing electronic linear actuators. I will be leaving the "blatter tank" behind the fender as I don't feel like going through the trouble of pulling the fender to remove it. I will however put rubber caps on the ports to keep moisture out to prevent the tank from rusting out. If you wish to keep the car authentic and use the vacuum system it can be rebuilt, a chassis manual has the schematics of the entire system to help aid you in repairing it. I used it to piece mine back together. The vacuum "manifold" located on the firewall is plastic and notorious for cracking at the seam and leaking due to the heat of the engine. I hope this helps some. If you require the schematics I can send you pics as I have chassis and body manuals for 1969 which has the Rivs in it.
     
  9. Gary Anderson

    Gary Anderson Well-Known Member

    All good info, thanks. I also have a '68 Buick chassis service manual, and so far it has been invaluable (once I found where they decided to put things in the book). My 430 has been rebuilt, but I have no idea what they did to it other than an Edelbrock intake and carb (proper for the 430/455) but they obviously put some $$$ into it. My power brakes work fine as well, so no cam problems. But other than the PVS (which is not hooked up at all) that goes into a coolant runner, there are no intake ports for vacuum in the manifold, so I'll have to find something on the carb or carb base. Now that I have a better understanding of *where* all of the vacuum stuff is, I need to get out there and see what's leaking and what's not. For instance, that little vacuum relay for the headlights (next to the battery) is completely disconnected, and doesn't even have the small manifold attached to it any longer. I fear the plastic manifold on the firewall; fear, fear, fear...
     
  10. 1969RIVI

    1969RIVI Well-Known Member

    Yeh it's a PITA system to trouble shoot for sure! I found my plastic manifold on the FW was cracked at the seam so I eliminated it and just used T's on the lines instead. But still no lights and my one cansiter was bad so I just abandoned the originality part of it (since alot has been modified in my car already) and chose to go the electronic route. Once completed in the spring I can let you know what I used just incase you decide to go that route also.
     
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