You put the big shoes on the drivers side, and the small shoes on the passenger side if you have an open rear. If you have posi, you put the small on the back, and the big on the front, so it has less braking. This is allows best minimal drag on the drums when doing burnouts.
Ok I will, I've just seen TrunkMonkey's posts on different older threads that say go with the order above^. I know the furthest and work your way in thing, done it before but I wondered if it was any different or if there was a better way.
The only other better way is with a pressure bleeder & I'm sure you don't have that. You check the e-brake cables yet like I talked about???
Russell Performance "Speed Bleeders" are great for "one man" bleeds. And a lot less trouble and mess then cheap chinesium vacuum bleeders. But I know you will already have them done before you see this. And Jason is correct. you can bleed in any order. I just "do it that way" so In know what where I am in the process. I have about a 3 second attention span. And Jason is correct. you can bleed in any order. I just "do it that way" so In know what where I am in the process. I have about a 3 second attention span. And Jason is correct. you ca...
So I’m having trouble bleeding them. Fire up the car and the pedal goes to the floor with not too much effort. I’ve used a one man bleeder before, and am currently using one from Napa, but I might go back to the tried and true Gatorade bottle filled with brake fluid to get this done the right way
I know you weren't born last night , and I don't know if this is possible on your set-up, but I've seen even seasoned guys make this mistake: are your wheel cylinders installed with the bleeders "up"? If you put them with the bleeders down you'll never get the air out. Seen guys do it with drums and also put disc calipers on the wrong side of a vehicle so the bleeders are on the low side. You can bleed them until next month and they'll never work if they are.
I just gravity bleed. put a clear hose on bleeder put hose in bottle. remove MC cap and let it drip. If It dont drip new flex lines.
Ok well here’s an issue that I pretty much know the answer to already. So I let the fluid in the master cylinder drop below the level that air can get in. So now the lines are well bled, and maybe the master needs to be bled. I have a hard pedal, but when the car fires up it goes soft. *someone can make a joke here* Do I have to bleed the master? And if so, I partially forget how since the last time I did it was when i installed the master over a year and a half ago.
till you don't see air bubbles in the clear hose.. I usually takes about a hour at the most... as long as you get fluid flow...
