John I don't remember what you did to your fuel pump. Did you upgrade it? What about your fuel lines, stock? It could be that you are running it out of fuel, using and demanding more than your system can deliver. Or it could be just as Bruce said and as long as you don't over think it...tune for the track at the track. Do you feel it nose over, do you hear a difference in the motor sounds, or are you just seeing it on your wideband?
To know for sure, you need to monitor the fuel pressure at WOT. Best place to do that is at the track at about the 1000' mark. Without a fuel pressure gauge you can use at the track though, the next best option is to rig up a temporary gauge you can tape to the windshield on the street. At least you can see if there is a potential problem. I have an electrical Autometer gauge for fuel pressure. It's expensive but works well. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3361/overview/
I’m just seeing it on my wideband., but I also haven’t thought to listen to the engine tone. I have the Stage 1 pump with the stock lines, including a return line. I should probably merge on to the highway from 0-80 at close to WOT with the afr on RECORD mode. That would really tell me if I’m running it dry of fuel, even though I don’t expect it’s that
A trick I did 35 yrs ago..... I used a needle valve on the return line with Stage 1 pump. On the street I left it open. At the track close it then crack it open slightly. My GSX was nosing over slightly right before the 1-2 shift. This gave more volume and eliminated that and also interestingly made shift harder due to not leaning out.
I used a ball valve in the return line. Got it at Home Depot in the plumbing section. Just teed it into the rubber return line at the pump. Left it closed during winter as well.
Also, cause I’m dumb and forgot to mention it, I put back in place the stock spring for the power piston in order to richen up cruise all the way around, the other spring that I had installed was too weak and left the whole car upset
(BQUICK) ^^^ What he said. Dyno load is not as dynamic as actual driving. Think of a dyno as the old "sled" in tractor pulls. You start off and then applie a brake load and then the engine pulls until it just can't pull no mo'. It tells you how much it can pull, HP and torque, but the variables of a car winding up, foot or trans brake, and then dumping to the wheels, or a wind up with no resistance and a dump to clutch, and it is a whole new ballgame. Test -n- Tune is yer friend. (or your enemy, when you break stuff... or find you are gwanna spend mo' money). But, do it for love and the need for speed. Take all my money, just keep feeding me Gs!
Next on the list: ✅-needle valve for fuel return line ✅-maybe adjust exhaust position over rear wheels for more clearance ✅- the brakes ✅-it’s damn good enough sadly. Reset the idle circuit, cause it’s very lean and not really idling well, probably related to how I failed to set it up months ago and it’s likely the throttle blades are too open now and off the idle circuit, which explains why nothing is working ✅-Check the secondary air valve for being too tight, maybe explaining a few things ✅-replace belts ✅-check everything front end related, including sway bar ✅-look at steering box a wee bit ✅-verify mechanical advance and total advance ✅-tighten two starter bolts ✅-check all fluids that can be checked when running ✅-paint all four road wheels ✅-afr tune engine to hell and back -maybe fix the driver side front power window ✅-hand wash ✅-tighten everything on the exhaust Gonna be mo’fricken busy for the next 10 days
Ordered the brake stuff: pads wheel cylinder redo kits all hardware all new belts for engine only $87 including $27 shipping, so really $50. Go China if it works
Home from school, now we get down to business. Also, I’m driving from CT to NH and back tomorrow and coming back sat. Anyone need me to move parts around?
The drums now don’t fit over the pads and whole assembly, with the adjuster wheel spun all the way in. Am I missing something? This is the old picture New current picture
Please not to insult you but are sure there's no lip cut into the drums from wear? Parking brake is off? and the wheel cylinder pins are all the way in?
When i replaced the brake hardware and shoes on my 68 Lesabre i had the same problem. What i found was the coating that they painted on the new Shoes was too thick. Brake pads were ok but the metal brackets that held them were the problem. The thick paint coating stopped the adjuster on the bottom from fully seating in its location correctly and also stopped the push rods at the top from doing the same. had to wire off the paint in the four locations and then the drums slid on with a little wiggling.
Did you press the rods/cups back into the bore on the wheel cylinder ? If not, do so very carefully and with the reservoir cap loose, but still sitting on the master cylinder, and check the fluid level first to make sure you do not push fluid overboard. (I usually crack the bleeder port and push them)
This is officially the shittiest work I’ve ever had to do on the car. F*ck everything. I’d rather bail out after my first pass and send it into the concrete barriers than do this for 10 more hours I’m at tool-throwing and permanently-damaging the riviera if I keep working on it
I'll bet you a dollar. The work you done is fine. The shoes are wrongly made... Been their. Remove the shoes and compare them thoroughly with a fine tooth comb.
John, I hate to tell you this but this is what it is like working on, not just old cars, but newer ones as well. Murphy's Law reigns supreme!. It really helps when the car is not your daily driver, and you can walk away from it when things get frustrating. Things don't always go as planned/smoothly. Take a break and come back to it.
