66 Buick Electra driveshaft

I'm guessing I need to grease that ball and cup? So I may have to disassemble the u joints and the CV correct

 

BEFORE wasting anymore time phase the shaft PROPERLY. You mentioned it had a harmonics vibration BEFORE you took it apart now it's worse. Someone before you installed it improperly even though you set it up the way it came apart. The '66 chassis manual states a 67 1/2* out of phase. I've done so many of these shafts that so called experts have rebuilt, rebalanced so many times. If all your joints are seated properly along with the clips holding them in place this is the 1st. thing I would go for. Want are we talking 20 or so minutes to split the shaft & re-phase??? As opposed to taking things all apart again.

 

The driveshaft has never been serviced before I serviced it. Car has only 42,342 miles. All u joints and hardware were original parts. So it couldnt be out of phase.User Dynaflow suggested my problem could be the ball and cup in the middle of the CV. I put some grease on it but not much. He thinks that's the source of binding and vibration. I will remove the shaft this afternoon when I get off work and I'll take a look.

 

The shaft shouldn't have been out of phase beforehand. The driveshaft has never been worked on. The car has 42,241 miles. The u joints and hanger bearing I replaced were original. This is what's confusing me. How can it vibrate a little bit at first and when I rebuild the shaft the vibration turns into so much more vibration? If the shafts are out of phase, how do I phase them properly? Refer to pictures.

 

Go to www.teambuick.com I believe they have an online '66 chassis manual. I just looked at my '66 manual & for a 48000 series vehicle out of phase is 90*. A 49000 series, Riv. is 67 1/2*.

 

I bought a chassis manual for the car a few months ago. Ill give it a look again.

 

Mustve been the angle of the pic, but it looked like the parking brake cable was rubbing on the front yoke... ws

 

On the first picture above, are those needle bearings showing or is that just a shadow?

 

I found the problem. It wasn't my driveshaft. Unfortunately the lug nuts on my front passenger side wheel were loose and the wheel was loosely on the drum. That's what was causing the thump and vibration. Thanks to all of you who tried to help me.

 

What an easy find! Now go through the whole car; remove, clean, and put some anti seize (just a dab!) on the studs and tighten (now lubricated!!) nuts to about 60-65 ft.lbs. Might want to closely inspect the studs and spin the wheel to check for true. That car should be a velvet ride! ws

 

It sucks it happened though. I just put on some 1967 Riviera rally wheels not too long ago. Now the wheel is ruined. Luckily I have a spare wheel, one of the original steel wheels, but I sold the 4 steel wheels a week after I got the rally wheels. You'd think these American made wheels would've heled up to being loose. Maybe not. Heres a picture.

 

Your lucky as hell it didn't come off. Would have been MANY more $$$ & problems if it had!!!!!

 

X2 - Buick wheels of this era are centered on the studs, not the register. All the load is on the stud, so if they are loose there is more vibration and damage.

 

Do any of you know what transmission my Electra has? It's a 3 speed automatic. I think it might be automatic Th350 or Th400. Also, one day I want to put an overdrive transmission in the car. Do you know of any transmissions I could use that will bolt up?

 

It has a TH400. It is a very strong transmission. You could install a gear vendors overdrive (2K) but you may need to change the rear gears to a numerically higher ratio. These gears are not reproduced. An alternative is to locate a set of numerically lower rear gears. The best idea may be to leave it alone.

 

Thanks for your input. I'm mainly looking to get better mpg out of the car any way I can, since it is my daily driver. Also, the other day I did an entire ignition tune up. I adjusted the dwell by tightening the screw all the way up and loosening it one and a half turn. The way the car runs makes me feel like there's too much dwell; and the engine doesn't feel as powerful as it did with the old points. Any tips on how I can adjust this correctly?

 

If you can get access to a dwell meter, adjust the points to 30 degrees (an estimate). In the meantime, bump the starter until the points are max open which occurs when the piece that rides the distributor cam lob is at an apex on a lob. Then, using a feeler gauge, adjust the points to an opening of 28/1000"(an estimate).

It is a heavy car with a large engine. It was never designed for good gas mileage.

 

...it was 1966...

Dwell meter, dwell meter, dwell meter...no guesswork...
Check timing and mechanical/vacuum advances, new air filter, make sure no brake drag, and my favorite, more tire pressure (don't exceed tire maker max). Low OEM specs were for that boulevard ride...

 

With the new u joints and center bearing on the driveshaft I've noticed the car drives alot better. When I let off the gas the car just rolls and doesn't slow down. Also it accelerates alot better.