My own personal opinion is DON'T do it. With the engine mounting plate giving a sort a leverage action it just may break the block casting. Hell we're using the Chev mounts in the '66GS we race & with it being chained with just a 1/4" of slack we haven't broken a mount yet. This is with dumping the clutch at close to 5K. Again, just my opinion. Tom T.
i dont understand about the leverage action.Please exsplain.. i enjoy picking the brains of you guys and learning from it but i am a why guy. its the teacher in me, like to try to understand why about everything.. by going to solid on the drivers side i will not have to chain the motor down and the passenger side can still continue to damper as it was designed to do. i will not be launching it at 5k but i can see the car going to some autocross events and the dragstrip to see what she can do.
If the one mount is solid and the other is supposed to move,something has to give.It will either be the frame or the mounting points on the block.Either way I don't see how that would be good.At least with a chain,the whole motor has some movement.I would go all poly mounts with limiting straps if you are that worried.i have never had anything with that much power so I am just guessing.Good luck with it though.I love that car and cant wait to see more of it.
well, the issue is the fact that the motor mounts resist the reaction torque being placed on the block which is trying to rotate in counter clockwise direction when viewed from the front during acceleration. This opposes the direction of engine and driveline rotation which is clockwise when viewed from the front. So that driver's side mount (and the attaching screws that bolt to the block) are being stressed in tension (trying to tear the tapped holes out of the block. The pass. side block is being stressed in compression during acceleration. Reverse your plan and you might be ok (soft mount on driver's side instead).
It's the same thinking engineers have when they design riveted members on bridges rather than welded members. the bridge needs to move a bit to carry the load.
http://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?91548-Solid-motor-mounts-on-a-driver check out this thread.. i am going to try it for a few reason.. i will be making some serious power and when i pour the boost on and i cant have that motor moving around to much. thier is a tight clearance issue with the headers and the flamming river column and shaft and on the pass side where the header comes over the adjustment knob for the ridetech shockwave. By keeping the tension side(drivers side) bolted down solid and the pass side rubber it dampens the vibration under load. thier is still movement and flex in the metal. alot of guys are running this setup in the high hp/tq setups and on the autocross circuit. i havent found anyone who has destroyed a block or trans. .. i did already destroy a trans with this engine under boost with all rubber mounts at only 7 psi boost.
Go ahead and put solid mounts in the way you want to.... then start hunting another engine block.....because at the very least you are going to break the mounting bosses out.... cast iron dont bend very well,,, it just breaks out,,, specially on a cold morning........or you could just do it like us old fossils do.... use regular mounts with a chain .....its a lot cheaper.... and more reliable....
The higher HP 455 guys were breaking the driver side of the block when going solid mount. The folks at TA know and I have seen a few pictures of it in my GS-X-Tras over the years. It is hard on an engine to function as as part of the chassis. The 455 with roughly 650 HP we ran in a 67 GS used rubber mounts and a chain on the driver side head. It ran from the back of the head to the frame and was not in the way of anything. Cheryl
As you say, "your a teacher". Think about the leverage for a minute. Like trying to move a BIG rock. Then moving it with leverage. The mounting plate to the block is a 6" or so leverage point. Amplified because of the length. We may ALL be wrong, but how much would hunting another block cost plus all the machining, parts, gaskets, time, etc. You have options for where to install the chain. At the motor mount to the frame or to a head bolt, etc. Build in 1/4" worth of slack. DON"T try & use a cable they NEVER hold. I remember the trans. issue. I still think something other was wrong to cause that problem. Again, just my opinion. Tom T.
Tom i may have taken this wrong but seems to be alot of sarcasim here!! As you say, "your a teacher". Think about the leverage for a minute. Like trying to move a BIG rock. Then moving it with leverage. The mounting plate to the block is a 6" or so leverage point. Amplified because of the length. WOW TOM... THANKS FOR A SECOND GREADE LESSON... i know i ask you to clearify. but damn.. or maybe the referrring too "your a Teacher" are you saying i act like a know it all. i wasnt saying i didnt know what leverage was.. too be honest ,your comment i was asking about was " With the engine mounting plate giving a sort a leverage action it just may break the block casting". i didnt understand the "a sort a leverage action" .. also, why wouldnt the plate give before the block?? they are both from cast. how many nailhead bosses have you guys seen break?? i know you are tring to save me a block but it was just the way TOM came across to me.. I guess that is the difference between TEACHERS and ENGINEERS.. TEACHERS realize they dont know all the answers!!! know back on the mounts... atleast i know what some of you guys would do in your cars.. I guess i should start pricing out blocks because i wont install a chain.. i would run a rubber mount if they would hold but i cant chance one breaking. i know alot of you guys are old school and have 40-50 years in the trade.. i always appreciate your knowledge and thier is only one way to do things.. i know this first hand.. i work with a 65 year old hotrodder and he raced with all the big shots..still has his fuelie vette, but thier are more than one way to skin a pig. he thought it was stupid and unnessary to tune my nailhead with wideband o2's sensors and a piggyback a/f montering system," set it with vacuum and check the color of your plugs". I will be putting the motor back in the car asap and hopefully it will not come back out for a long time. i will be drilling the center of the drivers side rubber mount and putting a bolt with a nylon nut. i will leave it two threads from being tight and knurl the theads over so it cant back off. this will be my chain. i dont like the look of a chain and to me it is not the right way, but just like Tom T said just my opinion. Paul (just a teacher) (just a Nailhead with a turbo)
Paul, you DID take it wrong. There was absolutely no sarcasim meant. I was just trying to make it as clear as possible & one of the ways I think about things. Paul, I'm not tryin' to be a wise a8s here, just stating what I believe to be the facts. The mounting plates are MUCH thicker than the walls of the block. As far as the bolt through the motor mount that's just another way to accomplish the same thing. I'm also sure you meant to say a nylon impregnated "Steel" lock nut & not a "Nylon Nut". I will not ever claim to know it all. Nobody died & left me God. And, I'm not gonna say I been there & done that because I haven't. My Riv. has a different mount set-up than your GS & my chain is only 4 links long. It's painted black & it can't even be noticed unless your really looking. Way back when the mounts were USA made I would break one at least once a month. Today's junk China mounts I'm sure would break in a week. My Riv. weighs more than your GS but it will NOT be putting out the torque of YOUR NailHead by a long shot!!!!! Especially if you have traction & are able to hook-up. I am NOT an engineer just a wrench turner for about 55 years. I didn't state what I have to start a pissin' match. You take the road that's most comfortable & suitable for you. I for one, & I'm sure there are many others, who applaud you for taking on the route that you have taken. Good luck with your endevors & remember this is all about havin' fun & learning!!!! That's all I'm gonna say. Tom T.
i know i am not the only one here who thinks this but i know i look up to alot of you guys. Between Doc, You Tom, John Everette and many more i get excitied to check out v8buick..i learn something new everyday and sometimes things are taken to heart or out of text beause of cap locks,bold letters or a set of " " but for some reason i took it wrong.. maybe it was the teacher thing. but just like when we were techs in the shop... we say what we have to say and it is water under the bridge.. feel bad i took it the way it and thats on me... i bounce alot of things off you guys just like i do my fellow mechanics i work and as you can see with my build i have redone alot of things due to learning.. turbo orginally started in the back, now its in the front.. i built two sets of turbo headers and three flangers to get it to work and look like it is supposed too.hotchkis springs, to qa1 coilovers to ridetech airride with shockwaves.. i am sure this mount thing will be the same. i just want to Build quality hotrods.. i got to get the motor back in asap so i can tuck the front bumper flush with the fenders and hide the intercooler behind it. Get tubing powdercoated and try to get it running again before we have snow on the ground.. thank you for your advice and insight.. Paul
