'64 rivi

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by 87GN@Tahoe, Nov 22, 2006.

  1. 87GN@Tahoe

    87GN@Tahoe Well-Known Member

    I'm looking at purchasing a '64 riviera in the next week or so and I was wondering if there is and particular thing I might want to look for... the car is RUST FREE and only on it's 2nd owner

    any info would be appreciated... cowl tag info would be nice as well

    wes
     
  2. CTX-SLPR

    CTX-SLPR Modern Technology User

    Heater valve works, they are 1 year only with 1 year only cables so they can be tough to replace. Rust under the rear wheel chrome trim. Rust in the floor support braces and the trunk support braces ends. Bent glove box door (most have this but still something to look for) rust in the battery tray and the fender under it from a leaky battery. Cracked fiberglass armrest bases. Posi traction (lucky you if you find it). Sorry don't have a manual for cowl tag info. Try posting in the Boatload section, this is more about the Nailhead than the cars they were in.
     
  3. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    !sr. place to look for rust is right behind the rear tires where the body mounts are. 2nd. is the seat bracing, if the drivers seat looks like it's tilting back or bent the brace under is rotted. Try to move the seat around. 3rd. is the support under the r/front floor & the floor from a leaky heater core. All the rest is kinda obvious, under battery, etc. Check the engine code on the right front (passenger side) in front of the valley pan on the flat machined area of block. Should be KW for 1x4 or KX for 2x4 engine. On the left front (driver's side) the engine number should start with a 7K1xxxxxx & should match the vin on top of the cowl on the left side under the hood. Darn nice cars. I'm kinda partial as I have owned mine since new. Most anything else can be dealt with. Heater control valves can be rebuilt if all else fails. I have done mine. It will take more time in $$$$ than finding an NOS one.
     
  4. 87GN@Tahoe

    87GN@Tahoe Well-Known Member

    thanks a ton for the help guys... picked it up and it is BEAUTIFUL... White with a black interior, power antenna, AM/FM radio, power driver's seat (didn't bother to see if passenger's was power or not), speed alert, Factory AC, 20-year old reapaint looks brand new (except for a couple chips here and there, and good old 465 wildcat power.. and ZERO i mean ZZEEERRROOO rust... thank god for little old lady's from Las Vegas

    a couple little things ned to be fixed, for instance, the plastic on the driver's seatbelt buckle is broken, the old lady's arse tore up the driver's seat a little, the switch handle for the power antenna is broken, the left blinkers won't work (i think it might be the switch itself), lower trim on rearmost of the rear driver's quarter is missing, paint chipped from some dumbass with a shopping cart, carpet could be replaced, passenger's rear quarter glass weatherstrip needs replacement (one that seals up door glass to rear glass), driver's door armrest pad is torn (black interior), and window regulator in passenger's door needs adjustment or replacement... truely just little things... if any of you know where i might find some of these items, please let me know...

    pictures to come soon

    wes
     
  5. CTX-SLPR

    CTX-SLPR Modern Technology User

    If its a tilt column it likely the switch is out of adjustment. There are not power passenger seats. Quarter window seals are available on eBay from Route 66 Restorations that fit better than the Steele ones which are universal trim to length and I never got to fit right. I'll have spare motors and regulators for the windows around new years if you want to do what I did and take the set and yours, make the best combination, then pass the set on. My seatbelts are all metal Airline type, I love'm.
    Pictures please when you get a chance. Mine is White on White/Black hybrid interior with just about all the options you can think of except dual note horn, wood wheel, dual quads, something else I can't think of.
    Posi, AC, AM-FM c/fader, power windows, power vents, power antenna, power brakes, power driver seat, rear window defroster, Custom build plate, cornering lamps, and deluxe interior.
    I plan on adding a '65 trunk lock cover, pop-up armrest, and rocker mouldings.
     
  6. 87GN@Tahoe

    87GN@Tahoe Well-Known Member

    my windows aren't power... but if i could get a regulator that would be AWSOME... how much?...

    It IS a tilt coloum... so, how do I re-adjust it?

    my seatbelt buckle are similar to an airline type buckle, but the tops are black plastic :Do No:

    took it for a drive last night... i think the heater valve is a goner.. it was an awfully frigid drive... telriv, how did you re-build your valve?

    got to go for now... i'll post more later this week

    thanks again,

    wes
     
  7. 87GN@Tahoe

    87GN@Tahoe Well-Known Member

    OOOH YEAH, Bfore I forget... I found a kind of knob under the dash near where your left knee might go.... is that for adjusting the SP converter?
     
  8. CTX-SLPR

    CTX-SLPR Modern Technology User

    '64 doesn't have a switch pitch, atleast not stock it doesn't. I think thats the reverb adjustment for the radio but am not sure. There is a heatervalve on eBay right now which is where I got my replacement one. It has the plastic covers that might be worthwhile to the restoration nuts aswell. I'd be passing along the whole set and mine are power so I don't know if the regulators interchange. I can't say how to adjust it as mine is finicky and I have to play with the stalk occasionally before it will hold a left signal but it never fails to signal. Its cable opperated and the switch is at the base of the column.
     
  9. 87GN@Tahoe

    87GN@Tahoe Well-Known Member

    ... okay on the no-switch pitch... I noticed that it has three gears, is it a th400 then?

    I'll have to try fiddling with the turn signal switch

    where can I get new driver's seat upolstry? would it be the sme as a '64 skylarks? (that is if a skylark was avaiable with the same pattern)... ALSO Carpet? and my interior lights don't seem to work... well they kind of do, i think the door activated switch needs replacement... where might I find one of those... also the plastic lenses for the interior lights?

    I had a damn hard time starting it last night... cold blooded beast.. were block warmer's available?... I had a '68 skylark that had a "block warmer" that was in-line with the heater hoses it was either factory installed or dealer installed... I remember it being on the window sticker... it would eb nice to have one of those or maybe one of those heater elements that are built into a freeze plug... hmmm

    Now, as far as fuel goes, are these heads like all other buick heads where they have alot of nickle in the casting , so hardened valve seats aren't nessisary???? should I put in any additives in the fuel? Is 91 octane okay for the car?

    so many questions

    thanks again,

    Wes
     
  10. CTX-SLPR

    CTX-SLPR Modern Technology User

    Its a one year only ST400, its mostly TH400 but the valvebody is different and it takes the earlier "submarine" filter and shoeheel pan. Good luck on the switch, mine worked pretty quickly so can't tell you much about fiddling.
    There are atleast 2 places that make Riv specific seat covers and even more that make carpets though I'd get them from the same place. I personally like Clark's Corvair.
    Switchs can be rebuilt, I'd have to look at the back of the Riview for the contact info on them but there are no new ones. The lens are available through CARS and maybe Classic Buick Parts.
    I've seen them on eBay but no idea how factory they are. I'm sure they make them but is this thing driven enough to need one?
    fuel it up on the good stuff from the pump and go from there. If she pings play with the timing and get a Crane adjustable vacuum advance and spring kit to customize that down for your motor, weather, and fuel. Nailhead don't need hardened seats for whatever reason, I know mine works great and everything I hear about them for them is that they are a waste of money.
     
  11. 64CatMan

    64CatMan Member

    The knob under the dash should be for your trip odometer. :TU:
     
  12. Jim Cannon

    Jim Cannon Loves that Dynaflow hum!

    Turn signals

    Wes-
    On the turn signals with a tilt column... as was mentioned, the switch is actuated by a thin cable between turn signal lever and turn signal switch. The most common cause of problems is that the plastic cable housing, at one end or the other, has pulled loose from the metal grommet at the end. So the cable inside the housing does not push or pull the switch correctly.

    To fix it: See if the cable end at the switch has pulled loose from the grommet. If it has, you can gently clamp around the column with a radiator hose clamp to keep the signal cable housing from moving when you move the signal lever. If it looks secure at the switch end, then the problem is up at the lever end. Fix it here by using a hose clamp around the cable housing up at the top of the column. But once you clamp it, you can not move the tilt column again. :( So put the wheel in the position you like and then snug the hose clamp down. You might need to slide the cable housing up or down before you tighten up the clamp, to get the turn signals to work correctly in both directions. That's the only adjustment you can make.

    This is a temporary fix until you replace the turn signal cable.

    Jim
     
  13. 87GN@Tahoe

    87GN@Tahoe Well-Known Member

    thanks for the resto parts tips, Sleeper

    '64, thanks for the odo trip tip... that's what it is allright :TU:

    Jim, thanks for the tips on the turn signal switch... i'll try it this weekend



    OH, and here's some pictures :grin: :3gears:

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  14. 87GN@Tahoe

    87GN@Tahoe Well-Known Member

  15. 87GN@Tahoe

    87GN@Tahoe Well-Known Member

  16. 87GN@Tahoe

    87GN@Tahoe Well-Known Member

    [​IMG]
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    they're pretty blurry because it was damn cold today and I was shaking (i need a tripod)

    wes
     
  17. 87GN@Tahoe

    87GN@Tahoe Well-Known Member

    CTX-SLPR... how are you getting your '64 to weigh soo little?
     
  18. CTX-SLPR

    CTX-SLPR Modern Technology User

    Not quite sure what you mean, if its the 3800-4000lb number I have on the GN sites its from the roughly 300lbs you loose by going from the Nailhead to a Turbo6 and the associated Aluminum radiator and intercooler replacing stock copper brass. I'm also saving a little bit of weight by going from the metal tank to a plastic tank for my EFI setup.
     
  19. 87GN@Tahoe

    87GN@Tahoe Well-Known Member

    ahhh, I thought you might have made some fiberglass parts and such
     
  20. 65specialconver

    65specialconver kennedy-bell MIA

    i dont think anyone makes 'glass parts for rivy's of that year,nice car,what did ya pay for it? :laugh: btw,you need to change your user name to 64kickbutt -i stole -it riv owner :grin: or 64articwhiteriv,love that color :beer
     

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