Hi, I have a '64 Electra with a 401 nailhead. I was wondering what kind of problems I might have removing, first, remove the crank bolt then the pulley. Also, what problems could I run into trying to get the timing cover off once the pulley is off. Thanks! Kevin
I just used an impact wrench on the crank bolt, came out without too much hassle. Then the balancer more or less just slid off. The biggest pain is going to be unbolting and getting all the accessories out of the way. Also make sure that if you separate the water manifold from the timing cover, you have a replacement o-ring, otherwise it will leak. Ask me how I know... :laugh:
Watch out for the smaller 1/4x20 water pump bolts breaking from seizing to aluminum. Apply a few heat and cool cycles with a propane torch as a precaution. Tighten ever so slightly before loosening. Removing broken bolts in alumium is no picnic.
I've heard horror stories of snapping of the crank bolt and also breaking the balancer with a puller. Is this problem common on nail heads?
Thanks John! How are the timing cover bolts to get out? Can you snap off as easy as the smaller water pump bolts?
My experience they seldom snap if removed with care, and if they do there has been enough to get a vise grip on. John
John, Would the process of removing the timing cover bolts be the same as JZRIV described above? Or is there so another technique. Could you also tell me how to get out one of the bolt(s) if it does break off in the timing cover or the block? Thanks!
As mentioned the larger bolts rarely break but in the event they do get seized to the aluminum, if they break you then have a bigger problem of trying to pry the timing cover off (without ruining it) the long broken stud which is still seized. If they feel over tight don't be afraid to apply the same process as mentioned above. These don't seize up on the threaded portion but rather along the shank that is in contact with the aluminum. I've only had it happen once and I think that was on a 430. At least two of the long bolts thread into the water jacket so pay attention to that when going back together. The threads will need sealed. On the small water pump bolts they can twist off before you ever know if the whole bolt is spinning or you're twisting the head off. Thats why you have to use heat right from the beginning. When going back together use aluminum antiseize on them
Thanks Jason! If I do break a smaller water pump bolt off, how would you personally go about trying to get it out? Kevin
It will need drilled out. You have to make every effort to center punch the exact center of bolt. This is not the time to use an old ground down dull center punch. Once you are confident you have center, drill a 1/8" hole through the bolt. If the drill tracks off center you'll end up drilling into the aluminum and significantly worsen the problem. If that happens you're better off to take it to a machine shop to have it removed. If you can get the stud drilled on center, try an easy-out/screw extractor but again use heat-cool, heat-cool and penetrating oil. If you still can't get it to turn, drill it out completely and install a thread repair insert such as a Helicoil to restore the threads. Helicoil kits are not cheap so you want to do everything possible to avoid getting to that point but sometimes its inevitable. Or - If its a through-hole and theres room for a nut on the back forget about restoring the threads and just use a longer bolt with a nut.
