58 364 rebuild

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by ttotired, Oct 29, 2015.

  1. ttotired

    ttotired Well-Known Member

    G,Day

    A little background, I havnt owned this car for long and when I bought it, the engine was locked

    A lot of water had gotten into it through the carby

    It took a couple of weeks, some atf oil, a long pipe and a failed (burnt out) starter to get it to turn

    Once I got it free, it was relatively easy to get running

    Everything leaked from everywhere, but I expected that and it had a bit of a knock

    Last w/e I got the engine out of my 58 special and started looking for what was knocking

    Found it quite easily, #1 piston resembles a broken easter egg, funny thing is, it really didnt miss when it was running, well not badly

    The valves arnt very good because of the water that sat on them

    I havnt finished stripping it yet, but the crank looked really good

    Mick
     

    Attached Files:

  2. YoungHog

    YoungHog Active Member

    Thanks for sharing.. Keep us updated.
     
  3. bhambulldog

    bhambulldog 1955 76-RoadmasterRiviera

    That happened to mine 40 years ago.
    Two Pistons grenaded.
    We had to sleeve one cylinder.
    It's still running strong
    Good luck
     
  4. ttotired

    ttotired Well-Known Member

    Its almost fully apart now with (thankfully) no other nasties found

    Close inspection after it gets a clean will reveal the full story

    Mick
     
  5. ttotired

    ttotired Well-Known Member

    I have a couple of questions for those in the know if I could please

    Firstly, I am sure I read somewhere that the cam shaft was/is retained in the block by a circlip that you need to remove the core plug at the back of the block to access, I didnt have to do any of that, there is no grove or anything that looks like its missing?

    Its an auto and I read in the service manual that there are supposed to groves to indicate its an auto cam and they are there

    Did I just confuse myself or could this be a wrong or aftermarket cam?

    If alls good (what I hope), what controls cam end float? Maybe, just the distributor gear?

    Second one involves a rebuild kit

    I have seen listed on ebay kits for the 364, but I noticed one place specifies a difference between the 40 series and the rest

    I looked at the specifications for the engine and noticed that the compression ratio of the 40 is lower as is the horsepower

    Is it ok to use the higher compression ratio/horsepower kits in mine?

    I assume that the difference is just the height of the piston crown and if its going to fit, then why not have more horsepower?

    I also noticed that there are 2 different sizes in the valves (stem length, I think it was) but I have forgotten whether that was for 59 and up engines or 40 series to the rest

    All advice is most welcome, especially any tips and tricks

    The building will be a bit drawn out because once I get the machinist bore recommendations, it normally takes about 3 weeks from time of order to parts arrival here

    All the crank journals look excellent, so I wont have to do that, but the valves are shot due to rust

    Mick
     
  6. bhambulldog

    bhambulldog 1955 76-RoadmasterRiviera

    Good questions, all.
    I'll defer to Tom Telesco "Tel Riv".
    I'm surprised he hasn't chimed in.
     
  7. 66electrafied

    66electrafied Just tossing in my nickel's worth

    Or Doc...anyone heard from him recently? He was always a fantastic source of knowledge.
     
  8. Bigpig455

    Bigpig455 Fastest of the slow....

    I talked to Doc a week or so ago......he's alive and well and enjoying himself working on his house and property, and lurks here from time to time...but mainly it appears he's decided to go "off the grid" for a while and focus on other stuff.

    I guess the same could be said of Tommy - he's been busy building a new shop/residence and trying to service his customers in a remote fashion...keeps him busy and on the road. I saw him about a month ago up at LVD and we raced my Stage1 car....and naturally, he was the first to break into the 13.6's with it. Here are some pics of the car, and Tommy congratulating me on beating his time (in my own freakin car!). He also brought up my pistons to take a look at before he brought them to the machinist......

    Total. Thread. Hijack.
     

    Attached Files:

  9. ttotired

    ttotired Well-Known Member

    I have been talking to the rebuild kit people about the pistons, but I am none the wiser
    (start reading at the bottom)
    I would hate to get the 40 kit and find that i could fit the 50 kit without a problem or getting the 50 kit and it not fitting
    The compression height difference they are talking is not big, but I am wondering if the extra compression is in the tops of the piston or in wrist pin height?
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    [TD="class: wrapText, width: 100%"] [h=3]The compression height of the pistons is different as well. The 40 series pistons have a compression height of 2 11/32 while the 50, 60, 70 series pistons have a compression height of 2 13/32
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    [TD]Dear ttotired,

    The compression height of the pistons is different as well. The 40 series pistons have a compression height of 2 11/32 while the 50, 60, 70 series pistons have a compression height of 2 13/32

    - old.parts
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    [TD="class: wrapText"] Thanks for that, but I am wondering why I cant use the 50 series kit
    If the only difference in the engines is the pistons, then using the 50 series kit basically hots up the engine

    Thats why I am asking if you know of a reason that this kit can not be used in a 40 series engine

    Cheers

    Mick
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    [HR][/HR] From: ttotired
    To: old.parts
    Subject: Re: Details about item: ttotired sent a message about Basic Engine Rebuild Kit 1957-58 Buick 50 60 70 w/ 364 #311480909739
    Sent Date: 10-Nov-15 08:49:39 AEDST



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    [TD]Dear old.parts,

    Thanks for that, but I am wondering why I cant use the 50 series kit
    If the only difference in the engines is the pistons, then using the 50 series kit basically hots up the engine

    Thats why I am asking if you know of a reason that this kit can not be used in a 40 series engine

    Cheers

    Mick

    - ttotired
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    old.parts: ​
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    Hello,
    The kit you need for your Buick Special is also listed on eBay. Enter this number 141822163714 into any eBay search box and it will bring you to the listing with the correct pistons for your engine.
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    [HR][/HR] From: old.parts
    To: ttotired
    Subject: Re: Details about item: ttotired sent a message about Basic Engine Rebuild Kit 1957-58 Buick 50 60 70 w/ 364 #311480909739
    Sent Date: Nov-09-15 13:02:54 PST



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    [TD]Dear ttotired,

    Hello,
    The kit you need for your Buick Special is also listed on eBay. Enter this number 141822163714 into any eBay search box and it will bring you to the listing with the correct pistons for your engine.

    - old.parts
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    [TD="class: wrapText"] G,Day
    I have a buick 364 nail in a special (40 series) and was wondering why I couldnt use this kit in my engine?

    This is for a higher compression ratio/higher horsepower engine, but not sure if there is a reason other than it not being lower power that it cant be used

    I am very new to these engines, so any advice is welcome
    I have the engine stripped now (1 broken piston), but I havnt had it measured up yet by my machinist to get sizes yet

    I also need engine and transmission mounts (car is a 58) along with other stuff I have seen that you have

    Be doing business real soon

    Mick
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  10. bhambulldog

    bhambulldog 1955 76-RoadmasterRiviera

    When I needed to get in touch with Tom (TelRiv) , I called him on the phone at his shop .

    Classic & Muscle Automotive
    Phone: (203) 324-6045

    Tom Telesco, Owner
     
  11. ttotired

    ttotired Well-Known Member

    Still havnt really got any further with the pistons, but I am going to go with the recommended 40 series pistons I think

    I seem to be a pioneer on this and I dont have all the measuring and machine shop gear (or the spare $$$) to buy on a guess

    I did finish getting the dirt of the dynaflow yesterday and I am cleaning engine parts now

    I am sort of hot tanking the heads now (one at a time actually), I have soaked one in a caustic soda solution overnight to see how clean it gets

    I say sort of because its not heated, but seems to be working well

    post pictures a bit later

    Mick
     
  12. bhambulldog

    bhambulldog 1955 76-RoadmasterRiviera

    I'm tuned in
     
  13. ttotired

    ttotired Well-Known Member

    The first pictures are of the one I havnt cleaned yet, just so you can see how grotty these are/were

    The process I used was a degrease and pressure wash, then into the tub of caustic soda solution with occasional agitating and a little wire brushing (hand one) just to help the carbon come off and pressure wash again after the bath

    I have sprayed the clean one with degreaser, but not washed it off to try and control the flash rusting

    There was no hard elbow grease required :)
     

    Attached Files:

  14. bhambulldog

    bhambulldog 1955 76-RoadmasterRiviera

    WOW!
    Nice work
     
  15. ttotired

    ttotired Well-Known Member

    I should have been a bit faster with the degreaser though, thats a bit of flash rust in the picture, cleaned off easy though

    The dirty ones being pickled now

    I have cc,d the head (1 chamber anyway) and measured 1 set of valves and the measurements are here

    http://www.v8buick.com/showthread.p...-to-advertised&p=2521606&posted=1#post2521606

    All info is good info :)

    Not looking forward to cleaning the block though, I am making quite a mess

    Mick
     

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