Your quote might not be all inclusive or specific to the nailhead. Did they include costs for things not even inspected yet or look up parts costs, or was it a generic ballpark? I'm guessing the major deciding factor is budget?
Just a general quote. After all this info I'm sure it's going to come in much higher. This forum is awesome! I have a plan to keep a nailhead in my Buick. I'm pulling the valley cover and going to attempt to replace the bent pushrods, free the valves, replace the lifters, and see if I get compression. If so, then I will pull the heads and do a valve job and inspect the cylinders. Hopefully that will get her on the road so I can get on with the restoration. If the motor is shot then a 401 is the plan. I will search until I find the right match. Thanks again for all the input fellas!!! This is my third classic and my first Buick so I have very little experience. But every project has been a hell of a learning experience. I was definitely depressed when I pulled the valve covers but I'm energized now to dig into it this weekend.
264 - 322 round exhaust ports. 364 - 401 - 425 roughly square. Also can measure the spacing between left and right intake manifold bolts. I'm just being a PIA! :grin: visually from the outside they are pretty much the same. I'd go for the 401.
A 401 might have some clearance issues with the exhaust manifold and the steering box. My 322 bent four valves , broke two pistons , cracked a head. And one of the Pistons scored one cylinder bad enough that it needed a sleeve. We sleeved it , replaced the one head. That was in 1975. We had the Dynaflow rebuilt in 2001. It's running great now, except it needs a radiator. The Dynaflow is good transmission. It has an undeserved bad rap.
while ill agree I don't feel the ls is a chevy engine or the new lt engines. I consider it a corporate motor and id much rather see that than the old sbc.
***UPDATE*** I am pulling the heads to have them rebuilt and going to check the cylinders. I will replace the pushrods and lifters as well. Any recommendations as to what I should request for the rebuild? I read, on another forum that the brass leads are no good and there are certain seats to use. Anything else? Thanks again guys.
sounds like you are on the right path... do as much as possible your self,, that way you know it is done right.... :Brow: do not,,, do not,,, let anybody talk you into building that engine without putting in new cam bearings... if you use the old ones , it will have low oil pressure at the start up.... I have a sticky on this and how to make a bearing reamer from an old cam... it is easy to do... :grin: use triclad bearings because they can take more abuse... use quality lifters.... old cams can use new lifters but new cams cannot use old lifters.... :Brow: new oil pump and if you can find one a new screen/pick up... if you cant ,, just soak your old one over night in simple green,, it will be like new again...:Brow: if you replace the valve guides , do it BEFORE the valve seats are ground.... this is very important... dont fail to do it in that order... :rant:
One thing you might want to look at either replacing or at least checking out is the combination vacuum-oil pump. Usually these things develop problems and quit. If you're going to replace it with a stock pump out of a later 364, then you have to either retrofit electric wipers in your car or install and older vacuum/fuel pump combination. Either way, they both don't usually work worth a tinker's cuss and electric is the best way to go. But I'd definitely have a look at that oil pump; they only made them for 57-58 and they are very hard to find.
Don't machine the heads for new valve seats. It's very thin in that area and it's very possible you'll break thru into a water passage. Valve guides... They are replaceable, but there have been reports that the hole is sometimes off center in the guide (of the originals). Knocking the old ones out and installing new guides 'might' result in the valves seating off center in the valve seat. It's somewhat of an internet rumor, but would be a good idea to check. Bronze valve guide inserts (it's rumored) can wear quickly due to the awkward geometry of the rocker arms. Perhaps a knowledgeable machinist can recommend some good methods. edit... I mean bronze guides, not brass.
The next 2 sets I'm machining will leave the original guide in place and core drill for another (smaller OD) cast iron VG, leaving a couple thou. press to drive them in. [I should add that I use smaller stemmed valves]
If you replace guides, which are readily available, they come out from the bottom up. DO NOT try to go from the top down.
Thanks Tom! Mine are all getting max ported, so I was looking for a thinner protrusion around the valve. This way I can keep as concentric to the seat as the original drilled guides were, rather than take a chance on locating from the OD and shooting blind.
Don't press the guides in as far & then contour them as nec. Remove material from the top for clearances. ALL the guides I have made & installed are concentric so far. Have had NO problems with them with being off center to the seats. They are all pretty darn close.
I chop out the protrusion from the original after I core them. I prefer leaving the original in as it protects the casting from being disturbed. I have a finished product that works well on my flowbench and in the vehicle. I was offering an alternate methodology to the original poster. As always, great advice!
Tom, thanks for all the input. How much do you charge to rebuild my heads? Ha! Do you take shipments from Ca?
Dznuggets, Since you are already in Ca. I would send them to Mike Lewis who is also in Ca. As of now he is the top "NailHead" porter in the U.S. Tom T.
