Hey thanks for taking a look I need help this motor will not start. I have checked it has spark and fuel the starter turns the motor over. The coil passed the ohm check also set the motor to TDC at 4 or 5 degrees set the distributor at what would be that or close and rotated the distributor slightly both ways same no start. Then checked spark at coil cap and than at each plug seem good spark but the plug are dry and a lot of fuel is going in to the manifold a puddle. compression is good have not done a leak down test but can but don't think its that I have a multi-meter and everything seem to be there battery volt 14+ and at the coil with a engine starter I did rebuild this motor my self and can list all done on the "budget " build but it is pretty straight forward though head job new gaskets timing chain blah blah... Thanks again any help is appreciated
It sounds like you have the distributor in wrong. The spark must occur on the compression stroke, not the exhaust. Are you sure you are on the compression stroke? Simply lining up the balancer mark with the timing tab does not guarantee you are on the compression stroke.
Set it to TDC on balancer, then pull distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing. It's either going to be on 1 or 6 cylinder. Then varify that both the valves are closed on that particular cylinder by pulling the valve cover/s
The easiest way is to first remove the #1 spark plug. Cover the plug hole with your thumb. Then have someone BUMP the starter, NOT CRANK IT, BUMP the starter a little at at time. When the compression pushes your thumb off the hole, STOP. Take a breaker bar and turn the crank clockwise until you see the balancer mark. Once you feel compression, the balancer mark should be somewhere under the water pump. Turn it clockwise and line it up with the timing tab. Take a look at the rotor, it is probably pointing at #6, it should be pointing at #1. Remove the distributor and realign the rotor to point at #1.
[QUOTE="LARRY70GS, BUMP the starter, NOT CRANK IT, BUMP the starter a little at at time. QUOTE] Key words! "Bump" don't let them re thread your finger, I usually pull the.coil wire too just in case. Great advice
Ok thanks guys I tried a combo of both using a compression gauge (60 lbs no loss) and bumping the engine because don't have another person. it was out 180* possible move reset same problem. so light out today gonna get to it tomorrow some with help but it feels like a timing issue and I will come back for more help or let ya'll know ASAP thanks...
If it was out 180*, and that's corrected it may just need a little fiddling with the timing. If it does indeed have spark and fuel, it should st least seem like its going to start at that point. Should "chuckle" or buck, some sort of signal should be there.
If it was 180 out you had better pull all the plugs as some of them may be very wet with fuel ! If so spray them with some brake clean or dip them in some Acetone to dry them off and then reinstall them.
I've had good luck using a long screwdriver in #1 when your alone. Pressure gauges work but with the screwdriver you can actually watch movement better IMO. As stated, take all the plugs out you should check them anyway and it'll be easier to rotate engine with the breaker bar. Follow above comments for distributor installation and double check your plug wires for correct firing order. Sounds like your close, GL
Your post did not say if you ever had the engine running or not, but, Did you check to see if the small wires on the starter are on tight? I had my car turn over normally but not start. I looked at everything (distributor, wiring, ect, ect ,ect), and I got advice to check the starter. Sounded crazy, but the one wire was loose. I can't remember which color wire (purple or yellow), but I tightened it up and that solved the issue. Not sure if you went that simple in your solution, but I always like to go simple at first. Good luck.
That would be the yellow wire on the "R" terminal of the starter solenoid. It supplies full battery voltage to the coil while cranking the engine. It bypasses the resistance wire for a quicker cold start. Is the OP still using points?
The screwdriver can tell you that the piston is coming up. Doesn't tell you that it's coming up on compression or on exhaust. If it's coming up on compression, the valves will be closed. If it's coming up on exhaust, at TDC the valves will be on overlap, and they'll look closed at a quick glance. Feeling for pressure or watching for valve movement as the piston rises, is everything. One other thing needs some additional attention called to it: Having spark at the end of the plug wire means NOTHING if the plugs are fouled.
Correct, I failed to add that I use a cork / finger first to verify compression stroke before the screwdriver. Might not be the "ideal" way to do it but it has worked better then the gauge method for me when I've been by myself.
Got it started the timing was wrong the 180* change got me thinking and had it clocked wrong long work day was not paying attention so original I was off by one cylinder the gear mesh and new timing chain had me thinking more advance to the distributor I would guess the timing chain will break in but the motor will only start at 0* TDC to -4* all info said to set at 4* so being the setting being off and 8 to 10 degrees made the tolerance a small window to find so by my math I was off anywhere between 36* to 45* lol call me the Rookie thanks guys....
Something isn't right. An engine should start with the timing anywhere from ~15 degrees advanced to ~5 degrees retarded. Have the timing marks been verified--indicated TDC happens at actual TDC?
