I have a set of rubber valve cover gaskets that I am going to glue to the cover only and was wondering if anyone makes them thinner that what I have ? I am in the middle of redoing my boost tubing from the Procharger to the carburetor and the V-clamp is just laying on the new valve cover. I think once I tighten down the cover, it will have room. The clamp hitting is not all I am worried about, it is the vacuum pump and the pressure build up inside the engine. The gaskets I have now are .125" (1/8 inch) thick. Looking for something like 1/16 inch thick.
I am not sure about thinner option available but I would be thinking the rockers on the ends may contact the valve cover depending on the valve cover , cam lift, rockers....etc
if clearance isnt an issue, maybe find sheet good neoprene and painstakingly make a hard pattern and cut your own...ray:
Not only am I trying to get the cover away from the Procharger, I was also worried about it moving and causing a leak. If you do not a problem do not need to worry about it leaking. Royden do you glue the gasket to either the head or the cover ?
maybe surface grind the valve cover down a little bit and run rubber gaskets. GaskACinch between head and gasket and gasket and valve cover...
Michael, I dont have any experience in this type of build but is fabricating a steel plate to work in conjunction with the current mounting piece to relocate the mounting of the Procharger away from the valve cover four or five inches out of the question and still not conflict with the inner fender? Need a longer belt and need to consider the geometry and any interference that may pose with other components between the crank pully and the Procharger...It appears like there is not enough room to make this work happily with a overall shorter finished height of top of valve cover in the long run? If it were further away, your tube would easily clear, and you could access the valve cover easily with the tube removal compared to having to fuss with the Procharger..
Can you remake the ProCharger bracket? Move it up and out, and rotate the bolt pattern a couple degrees for more clearance.
After much debate, it needs to be located where it is. If it were to be raised the water pump and hood will interfere. If it were to go outward the inner fender will interfere (unless modified). When I/we first made the brackets, it had to fit in a certain space without other modifications. The problem with moving it out is mainly the drive pulley would have to be remade from scratch and that leads to many other problems that would have to be addressed. Basically had to come up with a drive pulley and build everything to go along with it.
After some head scratching and measuring, I loosened and reclocked the back half of the Procharger and have more than enough room now. When I am done I might even be able to take the valve cover off with out having to take the Procharger off. Ever weld aluminum without turning the argon on ? It makes a mess.
That is what I was planning ( to glue it to the cover only) as the vacuum may pull the gasket in and cause a leak. The oil pan I do not plan to take off and feel for who ever does as I glued it on both sides of the gasket. I have about 1 1/4 inches between the cover and the outlet now. I will deal with the hood later. I wonder. Would be better to put the BOV valve on the hat itself or on the tube between the Procharger and the hat ?
