I'm working with a newly rebuilt 455 in a '70 Riviera with a new TA Performance center sump oil pan. After getting the engine built and installed I have a leak off the back of the engine mostly noticeable after engine shutdown and sitting. I put dye in the oil and inspected it and at first thought it was a rear main seal but after closer inspection with a black light and the engine on a stand it looks more like a rear oil pan seal. What are some good installation tips anyone has to make sure the pan is sealed and sealed right? I did pick up a used original pan in ok condition in case the consensus is to keep with an original. Any gasket recommendations or certain torque procedures could be helpful too. Thanks all!
The only thing I'll add is that there are two types of cork gaskets. A one piece and a two piece. The two piece connect together like jigsaw puzzle pieces under the timing chain. I prefer the one piece personally. One less connection point to potentially leak. Make sure you get the dovetail ends of the cork to fit into the rubber seal. On a Riv, you'll have to take the steering linkage apart to get the pan down
Thanks for the reply, the engine is out and on a stand. Not sure which version of the gasket the builder put in but I will make sure the new one is the 1 piece.
What about sealers? Anyone have any preference on one over another and where specifically to put any sealer?
It does not matter weather you use a one piece or two,if its leaking in the back,you most likely did not use the neoprine crankshaft seal.most likely a rope seal was used.Bruno.
I'll give you my 2 cents. Everyone has their own preference on sealers, mine is Permatex Ultra black. Whatever sealer you use, make sure you put an extra "blop" where the cork meets the rubber seal and maybe a little extra where the block meets the timing cover. Doing on the stand is a blessing. Make sure all the rails and the main cap are perfectly clean. I use DX 330. Doing it in the car isn't fun. And don't over tighten the bolts!
Here's what I do, and my stuff stays bone dry. First make sure you clean with brake clean , laquer thinner or rubbing alcohol. Small dab of sealer under the cap seal then push it in, then another dab on top of the cap seal. Then push gasket into the notch then a dab on top of the gasket about 3/16 tall across the width f the gasket. Down the rail I use a thin film of Ultra black or Ultra gray on both the pan and the block. Thin bead under the cap seal, then a 3/16 bead in the cap seal . Be sure to put a dab on the timing cover to block joint then lay gasket down. Start from center out and dont over tighten. Use a 1/4 in ratchet and just keep working it down. Make 3 to 4 rounds and its it's good. Also I put a little sealer on every bolt, more so to help them keep them tight, since they aren't very tight even when they are tight. Take the sealer that squeezes out and smear it in the gap from pan to block. Let it sit over night then check the bolts a few of them will need a 1/4 turn or so
Call me nuts but i don't use much sealer/rtv. I'll put a dab on the gasket joints and that's it. I'll make sure the surfaces are clean and dry of course. I let the gasket do the sealing. Recently i started tightening the bolts with the inch-pound torque wrench. Maybe a touch on the anal side but i never know how much to tighten 1/4-20 bolts.
The thicker TA gasket is money well spent also or at least the Victor gasket, Cometic and Mahle may have bought Victor iirc.
