Does anybody know or has anybody done a 455 in 76 regal or century, and did you put headers, and is there any modifications need to be done ??
Contact Mike Pesarchick, his screen name is no Lift here on V8. http://v8buick.com/index.php?members/no-lift.8033/ Try a PM. Click on the link above, then the information tab, then "start a conversation"
Thank you I actually just messaged him right after I posted thread, I remember someone referring me to him a few months back. Thanks!
I used the TA 1 7/8" long tube headers and it was no big deal to install them. Of course that meant a few dings here and there but I don't remember anything radical. The bolt-in bars from the cradle to outer frame have to go. I have the factory dual exhaust transmission x-member from a '73 and that did require a little bit of cutting to clear the headers. Typical ground clearance and mine is lowered a bit.
As far as fitting, and few other questions as well. Sorry lots questions here but I’m debating on choice in distributor, (is a stock distributor just fine), cam, and carb as well.
Have you considered these?- https://classicmusclecarexhaust.com/p/thornton-big-block-oldsmobile-headers-1
No lift, do you have any idea how much lower the long tube headers hang down from stock exhaust. Or how low they are compared to the cross member. I have a slightly steep driveway
Can't really say how much lower. Making an assumption that stock 2" pipe is as close as it can get to the cross-member and the headers are 3.5" then the headers will be about 1.5" lower. That is just a generalization. IMO you shouldn't really have a problem if your car is stock height because those particular models ran pretty high. Also stay away from undersized tires. From the factory they came with tires around 27" tall. Another possibility is getting the Doug's headers which have a 3" collector and does make some sense if you are going to run 3" exhaust(at the max.) even at the track. Probably make a smidge more torque down low with the smaller collector. I know when the GSCA was selling these headers they had special radius openings at the heads which gave maximum inlet opening for no reversion at the head. I don't know if the regular Doug's are the same. You would have to check. Not cheap, for sure, especially after you coat them nicely. I would have to add that on all my cars usually the primary tube at its' lowest point where it bends toward the collector is usually where it scrapes on something or at the collector flange. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...MIuOWwl4fa5wIVgZ6zCh2Tpgt8EAQYASABEgJqEPD_BwE
Lets put it this way as far as performance goes, if you are looking for every last drop of performance go long, not so critical, go short, next slower would be ported exhaust manifolds and then very stock manifolds. From my experience on a mid-low 12 455 in my '76 the long tubes were worth only a tenth or slightly better than ported exhaust manifolds with closed exhaust. IMO that would put the shorties in the middle. So it comes down to how serious are you for low et's? Or does the better ground clearance mean more? While I know my long tubes have dragged across something over the years going by the noticeable scratches on the lower primary tubes I can't say I ever really noticed it when it happened so it really doesn't bother me a bit. If I used it as a daily driver I might feel differently.
