Well just as the subject states, Im looking to know the hood clearance with a T-type/GN style hood . Im looking to pull my tired 3.8 out and replacing it w/ a big block. thanks jay
Hood clearance is fine with some careful planning. First, get a set of 455 frame pads from TA or Poston. These are about 1/2" lower than the stock pads you'll find in a big car. Next, make sure you use the upper holes on the engine mounts. Yes, there are 2 sets of holes, it's just that most do not have the top punched out. You can clean off mounts that don't have the top holes, then drill 'em or just get a new set of engine mounts for the big cars (say a 1971 Lesabre). Then do the pad fitup using your upper hole mounts and the new pads, but try and set the engine as far back as you can. This has performance, strength, and hood clearance benefits. With the above tricks you should gain about 1.5". Next up, cut out the hood framing. Look carefully where the frame is connected to the hood with blobs of fiberfill and then cut around them. you'll save your hood stiffness for when you raise the hood, but gain an addition 1" of space. Hope that helps!
PAE also sell frame pads. They are different than the ones from TA or postons. I didn't use the top motor mount holes i drilled my own. I set my motor far enough back that we had to modify the firewall. It's great for weight postion and everything but it's so close you have to pull the tranny with the motor. There is no separating them in the car. o No: Just depends on what you want to do. Thanks Dustin
Hood clearance depends. The motor itself clears the GN/T-type hood with a drop base air cleaner, or at least mine does. The accessories are what pose the problem. I'm using a set of accessories pulled off of an early 80s 3.8L V6. The alternator bracket hits my hood ever so slightly where the brace from the intake goes in. The way to fix that is to use a short belt on the alternator, grind off the spot the brace goes through, and bend the brace so that it goes through the same channel the alternator adjustment bolt does. You NEED that brace, as those brackets are probe to breaking without it.
