455 has begun to bog with any throttle

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by TheCynic, Dec 9, 2019.

  1. TheCynic

    TheCynic Smack Talker

    Fair enough. I set em to that trickle height when the plugs were pulled where you gotta shake yer carb to get a splash but im not opposed to setting it higher or lower. You think lower?

    Also. How do i go about checking those? Give em a turn?
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2019
  2. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    IF those distributor weights stay that way with the rotor off they are stuck on full mechanical advance. Remove the cap & rotor again & put a drop of oil in the middle, (OR WD-40 OR PBLASTER, then follow up with oil when they start to free-up) BUT underneath the piece in the middle of the distributor & move it back & forth UNTIL IT MOVES FREELY & IS PULLED BACK TO REST POSITION WITH THE SPRINGS ATTACHED. That's why it appeared to run better with the vacuum advance hose dis-connected.
    Just my observation & opinion.

    Tom T.
     
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  3. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    And, ten degrees of timing with the vacuum dis-connected with the distributor weights fully advanced when you get the weights to move freely your timing is going to be way retarded. You will have to pull the distributor forward AFTER you loosen the hold-down bolt & move it AT LEAST 1/2"-3/4" by pulling on the vacuum advance can towards the front of the car.
     
  4. TheCynic

    TheCynic Smack Talker

    Ok thanks. I followed the steps for the timing gun in putting the spark plug clip on wire 1 and the pos and neg to correct points, then aimed at the timing strip and pulled the trigger. It said 10. Hopefully thats right. But again, im a dumb newb. Ill check these tests tomorrow thx
     
  5. TORQUED455

    TORQUED455 Well-Known Member

    Does the rotor turn by hand a little bit and spring back?
     
  6. TheCynic

    TheCynic Smack Talker

    Iirc it did but ill give it another shot tmrw and film the results
     
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  7. TheCynic

    TheCynic Smack Talker

    The rotor DID turn by hand a bit. But did not spring back. Ive applied some liquid wrench and am waiting a bit to try to get things movin again
     
  8. TheCynic

    TheCynic Smack Talker

  9. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Yes, the mechanical advance is being held to full advance. Put some penetrate in the middle like I mentioned & keep moving it back & forth until it frees up & pops back into the rest position automatically. Then oil & keep moving until it's really free. IF it now works in reality I can guide you over the phone on how to at least partially fix the problem. A sorta like a "Mini" rebuild.

    Tom T.
     
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  10. TheCynic

    TheCynic Smack Talker

    Thanks ill continue to try that for now. I figured id walk away a bit and really let the liquid wrench soak the hell out of it. You guys are a really great community so thanks again
     
  11. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Those weights move outward with increasing RPM and move the rotor position advancing the timing. You can watch that happen with your timing light. If the timing is 10* at idle, as you rev the engine, the timing mark should move up, off the scale.
     
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  12. TheCynic

    TheCynic Smack Talker

    Ill tell ya turning this advance is still taking more force than those springs are gonna have in em to return to position. Gotta put a decent amount of strength forward, but, they werent really movin at all earlier so ill give it some time
     
  13. TheCynic

    TheCynic Smack Talker

    Gotcha. Im understanding some of whats happening at this rate just going thru each step and they currently dont simply spring back into place as some of the guys were mentioning
     
  14. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Again, you can check the mechanical advance operation with the timing light. Opening the throttle quickly and the mark should move upward, return to idle and the mark should return to initial timing. The springs oppose the weight movement. The lighter the springs, the quicker the advance rate.
     
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  15. TORQUED455

    TORQUED455 Well-Known Member

    The distributor needs to be removed, disassembled and the main shaft will need to be cleaned on a wire wheel on a bench grinder, or by other means. It is all but impossible to get it working good again for any length of time w/o disassembling it. It will be hard enough to get the shaft out of the housing, but once it’s all apart, cleaning the varnish isn’t too bad.

    Either that, or replace the distributor asm.
     
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  16. telriv

    telriv Founders Club Member

    Again, I can guide you through it.
     
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  17. PGSS

    PGSS Gold Level Contributor

    Couldn't it be the distributor gear grinding? or did I miss it being mentioned?
     
  18. johnriv67

    johnriv67 Well-Known Member

    It was likely the starter being flicked on quickly in succession
     
  19. TheCynic

    TheCynic Smack Talker

    Im back. Been away due to some circumstances. Death etc. Awful times.

    Anyway. Picking up where i think we left off i pulled this out. The advances still need a good bit of coaxing to turn like its its gummed up or such. Is this distributor repairable or is it time for a new one?

    Edit: Found a good YT vid where a distributor is taken apart, cleaned, and reassembled. Will give that a go then.
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Feb 5, 2020
  20. 1972Mach1

    1972Mach1 Just some M.M.O.G. guy.....

    Give us an up close of the drive gear, can't tell what shape it's in from the pic. But ANYTHING is repairable :D. Question is, is it worth messing with.
     

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