455 build with single turbo direction needed

Afternoon,

Super new to the forum and I’m planning on building a 455 using an aluminum block and was wondering about a turbo. I have a 71 riviera that I plan to completely resto and I’d like to ad hp to the car. I’ve reached out to TA performance to build an engine that would put out about 700hp but they said I’m on my own when adding a turbo. Any help/direction would be appreciated. I live in B.C.

Thanks

Steve

 

How many cid?
Desired Fuel?

For a street/strip deal I'd go with a S488 or s480r billet wheel 1.32 or even a 1.50AR

What's the ultimate hp goal?
Do you want to run 9s at 5000lb?

 

I’m going to use TA performance 455 aluminum block and have them build it up. I’m guessing having it for 91 octaine. Fuel in Canada is not as good as in the states. I’d like to still be able to drive it rather than race it in a 1/4 mile. Just would like to have some go

 

Oh and I should mention I am not at all mechanical. But I’m sure I will learn.

 

Unless your trying to make over 800hp I wouldn't go with an aluminum block,..there simply just isn't a need,..an aluminum build is long arduous process. Parts just aren't on the shelf. A standard bore 455 or 430 block with a single turbo will make more than enough to "get up and go"

A solid bottom end with some stage 2 heads with a s480r on 6 to 8lbs will make 750hp on pump with some meth injection for extra insurance and cost 1/3 the money

 

The hot side piping is the hardest part to me. Fabbing up the headers into a single turbo could be challenging.

Next "fun" part will be the induction. Carb with the pressure is pretty archaic by today's standards. A stand alone computer to run the injectors and ignition would be the way I would go.

But this gets a lot of wiring and an intake that can be used with injectors. The up side with the computer is the logging capability. This will give you info for tuning many just dream about. Plus traction control, pulling and adding timing for the conditions, adding and subtracting fuel for the conditions, monitoring fuel pressure, oil pressure, trans line pressure, coolant pressure to monitor head gasket integrity, all that and more, can be had with the correct sensors.

It is a dream of mine to do a kenny betts block, decent heads and a turbo as described above for my GS. Time and money and that block is all that stand in my way.

 

How is your welding?

 

I praise your ambition and fortitude. Good luck with your build.

 

I use to own a 92 twin turbo dodge stealth and loved driving that car. It was a blast when those turbos spooled up. Of course this was a factory twin turbo car but I did a lot of work to it. You mentioned your not very mechanical. I don’t know if a custom turbo set up is something you’d want to get involved in trying at this point. This would require a lot of mechanical knowledge and fabrication ability. You’d need to be able to weld and tune well.

 

In a Riv engine bay there is alot of real estate,.so a T6 chassis shouldn't be a too big of an issue,..I would simply run a cross over under the pan

 

Why the turbo I'm sure TA can build you your aluminum block 455 to make more than enough HP for your get up and go

 

Something different and you never see Them at car shows up here. Love the sound of them too

 

Th

Thank you

 

I have a freind who is a red seal journeyman welder

 

Get the exhaust pieces from GP headers or the like.

I think you're fine going aluminum.. it's all about durability and reliability. The cast block need a lot of band aids in excess of 650 or so. Too many rules to follow. At your cylinder pressures, the block is being twisted and pounded by the crank.

 

Arm yourself with info you will need!

Get SA designs book SA123 and digest it 3 times over front to back and make notes before you lift a wrench to do anything!

 

With the low boost that it would require and the way boost loads the block, assuming it wont be leaned on with sticky rubber at a track regularly. The iron will be fine for under 800hp. I wouldn't do a .035 or. 038 over 455, I'd stick with as I mentioned a thicker wall block. The rpm will also be moderate you wont need to spin it to 7k rpm to make the power with a turbo that by its self is largest contributor to block failures,..rpm

TA may have a block available but cranks take the better part of a year it seems like,..Cam cores are still hard to get,..I think I few guys are still on hold and have been for months and months because of a damn cam. TA stays very busy,. Getting an engine put together by them takes a pretty lengthy time,. As it does from anyone really. Most these Tomahawk builds end up taking a year to years it seems. Just being honest,..I had a Tomahawk that I bailed on because among other things it just draaagggs on and on. I'm a huge fan of the thing and wish it was more achievable so more of us could have them..but unless your trying to hang this 71 Riv 3ft in the air for the first 60ft,..its a waste of money imo.

A blow thru carb is the way to go unless you just have another 4k to spend for a Holley HP or Dominator EFI setup with the injectors,rails,throttlebody,sensors and harness thsts where you'll be,..a nice blow thru carb is $850 ~$1200 depending on options. Dual needle and seat deal can get up to $2500 but that's for 2k hp

A twin 76mm t4 .96 or 1.10 setup would be easier to package also. Precision has the newish "LS" 76's for 1k each,..two 45mm gates,..would be my choice. You could mount them rite off the manifold in Riv chassis I'm betting

 

Ask Gary to build another turbo engine:

http://www.v8buick.com/index.php?threads/1971-gs-455-procharged.348318/

 

That's a supercharged setup totally different animal. A great option but requires more rpm, and provides less TQ

 

Ethan,

My Crower crank has been done it took about four - five months.. I ordered in May and now currently waiting on the Block to be finished being machined.

Custom cranks with regardless of brand will take a long time. This isn't a Chinese crank. Now when I did my stage 2 V6 turbo, moldex took about the same amount of time.

In my humble opinion, I first looked at the stock block. And I already knew that it needed all the Band-Aids to support what I needed. I am tracking my car on a road course,r autocross,and perhaps long straightaways. Sustains high RPM. Now with that said, even slightly surpassing 6500 or 6300 whatever the golden rule of thumb is to make a stock block last with a girdle, with the amount of money invested in the machining and all the knick knacks .... you're getting pretty close to an aluminum block cost. Yes, you are essentially more than 60% of the way there.. I don't want a filled block as the cooling system will leave stress due heto environment it's in.

I'm looking for a reliability, dependability, and durability.

I feel an excessive 650 horsepower for reliable and dependable foundation I think the aftermarket block has a way to go. However, if you're just building a drag engine with all band aids and fill .. by all means go for it. just keep in mind the blocks with higher horsepower requirements need to be really a good seasoned core.

looking at it from a financial standpoint, the big picture shows and you put x amount of dollars into it... It's a no-brainer to put the proper foundation behind it.