I need to replace or remove and get repaired, my drivers side exhaust manifold. The car hasn't been exposed to salt, but I can't budge the bolts on the top of the manifold . Not surprising on an almost 40 year old car. Has anyone done this? Engine has 86,000 low stress Prairie miles on it and apart from a slight lifter noise runs great, otherwise, I'd be tempted to pull the heads and deal with the manifold on the bench. Gary
I would heat the ears on the head where the bolts go through. Start by slightly tightening then loosening back and forth until the bolts come out. I believe most of the bolt holes are open through the casting
Thanks for the reply Briz. Having retired and closed my shop, I no longer have access to Acetylene torches and I doubt a propane torch will generate enough heat. not to mention almost no access to the bottom row of bolts. I have an appointment today at the welders and will find out if the manifold can be welded in situ as the crack is facing outwards above the heat riser. If not, I'm going to change directions and concentrate on getting the fuel tank rebuilt. That way I'll be able to store the car safely until spring. I had planned to pull the motor for a complete high performance rebuild at some point and I guess I will have to move that plan up a bit. Gary
Success! The welding shop was able to repair the crack in the manifold!!! Upon restarting the car, the exhaust leak was reduced by 50% and upon closer inspection, the remaining exhaust leak was coming out of a worn shaft in the heat riser assy directly below the repair. All that remains to be done is to remove the heat riser assy and cut the shaft and flap out and weld it shut. problem should be solved. On to the fuel tank...
Cool news...glad they saved it. Call up Hamilton Manufacturing to get a new heat riser...I'll dig up my invoice & find the number....
Thank's Len, however, I do plan to go with headers when I soup the engine in the next year or so. By the way, I love '67 Rivs!!! Lucky guy
