430 Build

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by theone61636, Oct 10, 2012.

  1. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Finally, figured i put up some pics of the engine build I'm doing. I bought the 430 out of a 68 Riv GS after hearing it run. The previous owner had it rebuilt around 5k miles ago with total seal rings, 40 over cast pistons, and a towing type cam. Decided to go a bit crazy with parts figuring if the engine blows, I'll at least have all the good parts I'll need for whenever i can get my 455 built. New parts I'm adding:

    Comp Cams Thumper Cam
    [TABLE="class: overvw"]
    <tbody>[TR]
    [TD="class: overvw-labels"]Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift[/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-midmargin"][/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-data"]235[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="class: overvw-labels"]Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift[/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-midmargin"][/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-data"]249[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="class: overvw-labels"]Duration at 050 inch Lift[/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-midmargin"][/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-data"]235 int./249 exh.[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="class: overvw-labels"]Advertised Intake Duration[/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-midmargin"][/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-data"]287[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="class: overvw-labels"]Advertised Exhaust Duration[/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-midmargin"][/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-data"]305[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="class: overvw-labels"]Advertised Duration[/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-midmargin"][/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-data"]287 int./305 exh.[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="class: overvw-labels"]Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio[/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-midmargin"][/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-data"]0.506 in.[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="class: overvw-labels"]Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio[/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-midmargin"][/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-data"]0.491 in.[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="class: overvw-labels"]Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio[/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-midmargin"][/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-data"]0.506 int./0.491 exh.[/TD]
    [/TR]
    [TR]
    [TD="class: overvw-labels"]Lobe Separation (degrees)[/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-midmargin"][/TD]
    [TD="class: overvw-data"]107[/TD]
    [/TR]
    </tbody>[/TABLE]

    Duel Roller Timing Chain
    TA Timing Cover and high flow water pump
    TA Stage One Valve Springs
    SP1 Intake
    Holley DP 850
    TA Super Comp Headers
    SFI Flexplate
    New Factory Harmonic Balancer
    Stage One Fuel Pump
    430 Heads converted to Stage One Specs plus I spent about 40 hours on porting the heads just for the experience
    New 6 blade fan and HD clutch
    Pertronix Billet Distributor with Ignitor III

    I still have the Griffin Aluminum Radiator and I'm coverting to manual disc brakes. I also have a build 200-r4 wtith a 2800 stall that I'll install eventually. Anyway, enough talk, here are some pics.
     

    Attached Files:

  2. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    NIce job. Now ditch the Fram filter. GL enjoy it!
     
  3. crazychevy

    crazychevy Gold Level Contributor

    Looks good nice work:TU: Now We just need to see a vid of it in the car running:kodak::kodak: As You can tell FRAM doesn't stand a chance on this site:eek2:
     
  4. No Lift

    No Lift Platinum Level Contributor

    I'm not sure what reason you have for putting in such a big cam with a heavy car but I'd be installing the higher stall setup sooner than later so it is not too doggy down low. Hopefully you have a little bit of gear in there or you plan on using it as a highway brauler. That is the Mutha' Thumper cam. With 28 of overlap it will have a nasty idle. I'm thinking the regular Thumper would have been a better choice but you have it already. Make sure the cam you have installed is at least 4 advanced to keep the low end up.

    Even though you really need to see some rpm a bit above 5500 for optimum use of that cam if you keep it to 5500 rpm the cast pistons will live. Those valve springs might get iffy around 5500 with that cam and go into valve float anyway. Get some adjustable pushrods on there and go for a minimum amount of preload.

    What you HAVE to do is get the piston to valve clearance checked if you haven't already. The stock type near flattop pistons and this cam could be trouble. Better to check and be sure.

    That sounds like a nice rebuild you have there. I wouldn't call it a throwaway. A 455 built to the same specs would only be .2-.3 faster. Don't be so quick to throw the towing cam under the bus either. A TA RV12 cam carried my '76 Century(4250 lbs. with me) right into the 12's with a nice package around it.
     
  5. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    I've used FRAM filters before with no issues...why the hate?

    ---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:20 PM ----------

    -I chose the cam because I wanted something very aggressive sounding at idle but a blast on the highway.
    -The cam comes with 4* of advance built into it according to the Comp specs.
    -I have the 3.42 gears out back and with the 200-r4's steeper first gear I think I'll be okay off the line.
    -The springs recommend by Comp for this cam had a little less seat pressure than the TA springs so i figured I'd be safe with them.
    -Good call on the piston to valve clearance, I knew I was forgetting SOMETHING. As soon as i get my heads back I will do that.
    -I had no issues with the torqer cam honestly, I just wanted something more aggressive. I had the 284-88H cam from TA in my 455 and it hardly had any lope to it at all so I figured I'd go big this time. I want to scare little children when i drive by, lol.
     
  6. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    I assumed that with this cam vacuum might be an issue so originally i was going to get a vacuum canister...at least until I read the reviews on here about them. I looked at electronic vacuum pumps but they seemed way to expesive for what they are so I decided to convert to manual brakes. I bought a Corvette manual disc brake master cylinder (1" diameter cylinder) and an adapter plate. Was pretty easy to install, just waiting for the pushrod kit to get here. Should be interesting to see how it feels once it's all set up.
    I'll have pics up this evening when i get home.
     
  7. No Lift

    No Lift Platinum Level Contributor



    Do a search here about the Frams. Not much good is said about them even on other sites. The BBB has a marginal oiling system so you want to do as much as possible to make it more efficient and the Fram is not the way to go.


    I hear ya on everything except the springs. I looked at the CC catalog and they only barely recommend the springs you are describing for the smaller Thumpr cam. For your cam they recommend 150lb Beehive springs which is a far cry from Stage 1's. That is a very agressive cam. I don't think you need 150 lbs. but I think you need more than the Stage 1 will offer because it is pretty much done at .500" lift so you can't shim. You are going to run into problems trying to get enough pressure. Maybe a set of the TA Stage 1 Plus springs. I'd consult with the machine shop. Now is the time to do it while the heads are off if machine work is needed to use better springs.
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    See if you can use the steel shim head gasket to keep the compression up. I saw an article in the GSCA newsletter years ago where they disassembled a 69 430 and measured everything to calculate the true compression. The Advertised compression was 10.25:1, but when they measured everything it came out to 9.4:1, and that was using the steel shim gasket which is .025. Using a .040 head gasket would make the SCR almost 9.2:1. In this particular case, the heads came in at 71 cc, .025 gasket, .052 piston to deck, and the dish was 16 cc.

    That's a decent size cam on a narrow lobe center. Installing it 4* advanced will make it a 103* ICL
     
  9. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    Yeah, double and triple check for coil bind too. I ate two 290H cam's back to back that I am sure was from coil bind. It didn't bind when checking, but the clearance was darn close and I think at rpm and with heat they were smacking each other enough to load up the cam lobe. That cam supposed to be about .508" lift with stock rockers. I was using Stage1 valve springs rated to .500" lift and not the Stage1 PLUS ones rated to .575". So check your part numbers and clearance! I tried the biggest cam I thought I could get away with without swapping valve springs, I went too big :Dou:
     
  10. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Son of a bitch! LOL. Soooo, the whole reason i got the springs i did is when I looked up the cam on CC's website I scrolled down to the bottom of the page at the spring recommendations and saw the specs for the springs i got...you are right they recommend them for the lower end Thumpr cam. The problem lies in the fact that on the website they list the specs for each Thumpr cam as the smallest version. After seeing the catalog, I see that's not the case. Great, now i have to order new springs and will probably require additional machine work. FREAKIN A!

    So i read the specs on the TA Stage One Plus springs and they seem like they should be able to work if they can supports up to .575 of lift...plus it would only require some new valve seals and some light machining.
     
  11. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

  12. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Got my heads back today and checked the piston to valve clearance...had to make a trip to walmart to get some Playdo. Looks like I have plenty of room, just about .070 of clearance.

    PB160535.jpg PB160536.jpg PB160537.jpg PB160538.jpg
     
  13. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Some other pics.
     

    Attached Files:

  14. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    Jason, Did you have the heads torqued down and the cam,rocker shafts and push rods installed when you did your play doh test?
     
  15. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Sure did. I even took a couple of old lifters and tacked the plunger to the case so that it wouldnt bleed down when rotated over.
     
  16. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    New 6 blade fan and HD Clutch.
    PB170535.jpg

    New Pertronix Ignitor III Distributor
    PB170536.jpg
     
  17. Briz

    Briz Founders Club Member

    Do you plan on putting it on a dyno for break in? Its nice having all the numbers and everything all set up and ready to drop in and run.
     
  18. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    No, Im going to break in the cam with the engine in the car and go from there.
     
  19. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Here we go!


    PB200540.jpg
     
  20. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    BTW, has anyone ever lowered the engine into the vehicle with the headers attached?
     

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