430 build Part II...this time a 455!

Discussion in 'Street/strip 400/430/455' started by theone61636, Jun 23, 2013.

  1. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    SO, after my last documentary that ended in a bang I figured I'd go ahead and get this started. I took the machinist my old 455 block with the hopes the cylinders will clean up with just a hone so that I can reuse the forged piston set that was already in there. if not, I have a spare block standing by. I ordered some ARP main studs and a Finishline halo girdle for some extra protection for what I'm planning this time.
    Luckily, my old block had the main galley and pick up drilled out to 5/8 already so I widened and aligned the 2,3,4 main oil holes so they match the bearing holes and cleaned up the casting flash in the lifter galley. I did all the same mods to my spare block and was going to enlarge the main oil holes to 5/16" according to the Buick Performance manual and oddly enough they were already that size. Now this is on an untouched stock block. I believe its a 73 block so is this normal?
    Anyway, i'll get pics as i go but I'm seriously thinking about doing a low boost single turbo setup. :Brow: Stay tuned for more.
     
  2. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    So, I got the estimate sheet for the machine work today. Am i smoking crack or is 550 for assembly a bit much? I think I'll just go ahead and do the assembly myself for that kinda money.
    IMAG1170.jpg
    Anyway, have some questions:

    The guy is saying to balance my rotating assembly he needs my flexplate and harmonic balancer. Now, when i built the 430 before i added a new flexplate and balancer without having the whole assembly balanced and it ran just fine. Is this necessary for an externally balanced motor?

    For bearing clearances, I was going to have him aim for .0025 on the mains and .002 on the rods but if my ultimate plan is to build a 600hp turbo motor should i go a little looser on the clearances? The block has the oil mods and a TA timing cover if that matters. This will be in a mostly street driven vehicle.

    Also, for those who are thinking of adding a Finishline Halo Girdle, you have to use ARP 155-5402 to have enough length on the studs.
     
  3. gsx678

    gsx678 Well-Known Member

    My machinist cahrges $200 for assembly of the short block including degreeing the cam.
    He charges $200 for the align hone of the mains also.
    The other prices are close.
     
  4. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

  5. DaWildcat

    DaWildcat Platinum Level Contributor

    Yes, balancer and flexplate must be included for the balance job on an externally balanced engine. What you "felt" doesn't have much to do with it unless there's some kind of gross imbalance, like a flexplate counterweight that's come undone.

    Devon
     
  6. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Thanks all for info on the balancing and the prices. Any advice on the bearing clearances.
     
  7. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    WTF?! I just got the block home from the machinist and i guess its my fault for not checking it when i was or specifyying during the build but NONE of the cam bearing line up with the freaking oil passages! They are the ta double grooved bearings so im sure id still get oil fed but rhis seems like a huge discrepancy that an experienced builder shouldnt have messed up.
     
  8. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Are the bearing holes at the 3 and 11 o'clock positions when looking at the block right side up, from the front? If so, they are installed correctly.
     
  9. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    I spoke with the builder and he installed them IAW TA's instructions at 3 and 7 o'clock positions so I should be good.
     
  10. LARRY70GS

    LARRY70GS a.k.a. "THE WIZARD" Staff Member

    Right!:grin: That's what I meant, 3 and 7. Don't know where that 11 came from.
     
  11. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    FINALLY, some progress. Crank is in, halo girdle installed and main studs tightened down. I plastigaged all the main bearings and they came out to .002. I was hoping for .0025 so its a little tighter than id like but i think it should still be okay.
    IMAG1198.jpg
     
  12. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    I just cant catch a break. My goal tonight was to get the pistons installed so i break open the box and the very first ring i pull out has a casting defect! And of course no one has them or can get them any earlier than mid next week and i missed the cutoff time for overnight from Summit. I was contemplating using one of the old top compression rings to replace this middle compression ring. Sigh.
    IMAG1215.jpg IMAG1216.jpg
     
  13. TheSilverBuick

    TheSilverBuick In the Middle of No Where

    Bummer. As a follow up question, have you placed them in the bore and checked that they are gapped properly? Last set of rings I bought I "thought" I ordered ones ready to go, but checked them anyways and was glad I did as they were definitely a file fit set.
     
  14. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    I did check the gaps, even spoke with Mike at TA about them. Got 7/8 pistons installed tonight so now i just am waiting for the remaining ring set to arrive to finish.
    1011588_10151848283740337_644759662_n.jpg

    As a side note, why do these pistons have that circular groove in the middle of them?
     
  15. bostongsx

    bostongsx Platinum Level Contributor

    That's very tight on the mains if your planning on turning t
    Rpm
     
  16. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Yeah, i had asked the machinist for .0025 so im not really what happened. Granted, my plastigage only gave me a .002 and .003 measurement ruler so even if it was .0025 i wouldn't really be able to tell. I was planning on keeping the rpms below 5200 so i think I'll be fine.
     
  17. 300sbb_overkill

    300sbb_overkill WWG1WGA. MAGA

    The factory clearance for BBB 455 mains are, .0007" to .0018",and the RPM you want to spin you should be fine,should help your oil pressure too,so you might be able to get away with thinner oil?
     
  18. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    I planned on using the same 10w30 I always do, but maybe this time after break in I'll run synthetic.

    Engine is finally coming together. Cam is in and after struggling for 2.5 hours trying to figure out how to degree the damn thing I just aligned the damn timing marks and stabbed it in. I have my flame suit on for that but honestly, I'm sure i will be fine. Timing cover and new TA water pump installed as well.
    1098409_10151850247930337_1989047422_n.jpg
     
  19. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Got the last piston in as well as the head studs. What are people doing for windage trays if you have a halo girdle?
    581730_10151854426185337_2039995701_n.jpg
     
  20. theone61636

    theone61636 Well-Known Member

    Adapted the windage tray to the girdle today. Now all i'm waiting on are my head gaskets and i can button everything up.
    IMAG1247.jpg
     

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