Looking in my 1964 Chassis Service Manual, I see that it lists an AC 44S as the plug for 'Normal Operation', and AC 42 COM as the plug for 'High Speed Operation'. What is the difference bewteen the two? Should I go with the AC 42 COM if I'm racing a couple of times a year, and driving 'normal' otherwise? Also wondering if anyone has seen uneven distribution with a stock intake and AFB when reading plug color? My front plugs look rich, my back ones look lean, only one was normal burn. Any ideas?
This seems to be a distribution problem, even with aftermarket intakes, as gsgtx has been having the same problem, check it out. T.
Using the cold (42) plugs for normal use will result in fouling and poor fuel economy. Running the normal (45) a few times a year at the races will probasbly just keep everything clean.
I use 44's on my 401.. Just buy 'em off eBay. Currently I have R44S in there, but I do have a box of 44S in the basement.
Autolites are the only plug If have seen prone to break off flush with the cylinder head. I had 3 break off on our whole house Ford powered generator which caused me to research the issue. It has been reported. For this reason I will not use them.( I had to remove the entire head to remove the bottom section of the plug)
Dang, Jim , that is the first that I have heard about that problem,,,, that aint cool,,, Wonder what Auto lite says about that.....o No:
I have not owned a Ford in years but our whole house generator has a Ford industrial engine in it. I went to change the plugs and they felt tight so I soaked them with lubricant. I got the first one out but the second one snapped off flush. I have never seen a plug do that. So I looked on the internet and I see all these references to the same thing happening with Autolites. So I called a friend who is an ace mechanic. He comes over and says "Let me show you how to get the remaining ones out without breaking these off." He breaks off all the remaining ones flush. Now I am smiling at him because he is frustrated and cussing. He snapped off 100% and I did 50%. There was no real option then but to take off the head because you are going to leave residue in the cylinder getting the butt of the plug out. http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_qa3828/is_200801/ai_n21279778/ http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forums/2005/67936-3v-spark-plug-problem.html
i read those tech bulletins and have concluded that those plugs aint a good idea at all... one more example of something that works good getting changed just for the sake of change....:blast: gimmie my floor dimmer switch back while your at it....:laugh: :laugh:
I have had great results with the Bosch Single platinum spark plugs. For the "Nails" the new stocking number is 4036. When on sale at NAPA they are about $2.00 each.
Since AC 45S plugs are hard to find and expensive, I use Auto Lite #75 for my 401 or 425. For the 264 and 322 I use Auto Lite #76. I've been running them now for 10 years with no problems.
If I was having a problem with uneven fuel distribution, i would ck out the heat to the carb/ intake system.... an engine cannot burn liquid fuel.... must be vapor... heat makes vapor quicker.....
If you're snapping off spark plugs in a Ford--and that Ford happens to be one of the newer "Modular" engines (4.6, 5.4, V-10) it's probably not the plugs so much as the piss-poor cylinder head design. As usual, Ford made design compromises that result in unacceptable serviceability and longevity. The aftermarket has several "kits" to remove broken plugs from those engines; it's a very common problem. http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt..._broken_spark_plug_remover_lis_65600_alt.html http://ezinearticles.com/?Ford-Spark-Plug-Problems---Spark-Plugs-Broken-and-Blowing-Out&id=1107803 http://www.brokensparkplugs.com/ http://www.denlorstools.com/autoblo...lug-removal-tool-picture-of-fords-bad-design/
