401 engine bay heat

Discussion in ''Da Nailhead' started by RJBT, Jul 30, 2018.

  1. RJBT

    RJBT Well-Known Member

    Hi everyone,
    Im locate din France and have a 1960 Electra conv.
    I am slowly rebuilding it and and quite happy with the way the engine runs, except that it seems to get extremely hot int he engine bay. To the point where the horns dont work when its has runs a while (relay ? horn issue ?), the battery gets extremelmy hot too and just recently died (it was 10 years old though). I had overheatging issues in traffic but brought the radiator closer to the fan and it seems to have reduced that problem. It runs at 180° but when in traffic can go up to 200 or more.
    I am thinking of putting a steel panel sheet between the engine and the battery+relays but that will look awful.
    Is it normal for the engine bay/battery etc to get very hot ? What would be an acceptable temperature ? Would high heat shorten the life of the battery ?
     
  2. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    Does your vehicle have a fan shroud? 200 degrees F is within the range of normal. Batteries are very durable. My guess is the battery had an internal failure for reasons not related to your water temperature. .
     
  3. RJBT

    RJBT Well-Known Member

    No fan shroud in 1960.
    It was probably time for the battery...
     
  4. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    You could add a fan shroud or have your radiator re-cored to help you with overheating in traffic.
     
  5. Stevem

    Stevem Well-Known Member

    Most battery's do die in the summertime as age gets to them unless there under charged and its Winter and the Batterrys acid has gone back to mostly water and then freeze's.
     
  6. RJBT

    RJBT Well-Known Member

    I had the radiator recored already.
    There was no fan shroud in 1960. What year would best adapt to a 60 Buick ?
     
  7. wkillgs

    wkillgs Gold Level Contributor

    Check if the battery is being overcharged. That would cause it to get too hot. A faulty voltage regulator could cause that.
     
  8. RJBT

    RJBT Well-Known Member

    Good point. What voltage am I looking for (min - max) ? I checked a few weeks ago (I dont remember values) but at low RPM it did not seem to be putting out much. At what RPM should it be "charging" ?
     
  9. flynbuick

    flynbuick Guest

    If the generator has not been changed out for an alternator, yes it not charge so great at low rpm. At a decent rpm you should be in the low 14 voltage range.
     
  10. RJBT

    RJBT Well-Known Member

    I started the car (so it was cold) and I measured 13.95V;
    I thought that sounded OK.
    I ran the car and when HOT I measured it and it was 12.70V.
    I rev'ed the car and no change .....
    The car turned off (so just battery) was 12.9V. So once hot it does not charge !!!!
    What could be the problem ? Is there something to adjust in the regulator to bring the voltage up when hot ?
    What should I do ?
     
  11. gsgtx

    gsgtx Silver Level contributor

    full charge battery is only 12.6-12.65. thinking its fine. when running turn the head lights on see where it is at
     
  12. RJBT

    RJBT Well-Known Member

    I had left the battery on an external charger all night... If it only shows 12.70 when running and rev'ing I assume there is a problem... right ?
     
  13. RJBT

    RJBT Well-Known Member

    I've seen mentions of a fuse between the BAT connector of the regulator and the battery. I cannot find any on mine. What does it look like ?
     
  14. Stevem

    Stevem Well-Known Member

    12.7 may be ok after changing it up for 8 hours or more, the final test is to start the car get it up to temp and then turn on the headlights , blower motor and wipers , if the alt and reg are good you will read atleast 13.5 volts getting fed back into the battery at idle .
     
  15. Schurkey

    Schurkey Silver Level contributor

    Mechanical voltage regulators were typically set between 13.5 and 15.5 volts. Depending on climate (hot weather) you'd go toward the lower end, and in winter, more toward the upper end of the range. Short-trip driving, more toward the upper end. Long highway drives, toward the lower end. Because the mechanical voltage regulators were electromagnetic, the cover MUST be installed when testing voltage during the adjustment process. The metal cover would "enclose" the magnetic field.

    "Most" folks scrap the mechanical regulator, in favor of a transistor-controlled regulator that is a direct replacement. Some will take the metal cover of the original regulator and install it on the transistor unit, so that at casual glance, it looks "original".

    12.6--12.7 volts is "fully charged" for a battery with the engine OFF and no load. If the engine is running, you'd better have 13.5+ volts with no additional load (no headlights, no heater fan, etc.) Ideally, you'd have 13.5+ volts with some load. The main reasons that alternators became popular was that generators 1) had poor output at idle, and 2) weighed a ton. As alternators have evolved, each succeeding alternator model has improved idle performance.
     
  16. bhambulldog

    bhambulldog 1955 76-RoadmasterRiviera

    You have received excellent advice regarding the battery and voltage regulator.
    I would add,
    to be sure and follow instructions for polarizing a voltage regulator, when a regulator is replaced.
    Also;
    be sure that your ignition timing is set correctly. Incorrect spark timing can caused engineoverheating
     

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