I got a customer inquiring about parts to convert his 1972 skylark 455 automatic to 4 speed. Tell me whatcha got. He was giving a tranny casing loaded but nothing else. Needs bellhousing, pedals, linkages and shifter.
Bellhousing, linkages and shifter are available as new repros if you cant find original stuff. The 4 speed pedals are specific to a manual, but the mounts are the same for auto. I found that out, I bought a set of used 4 speed pedals, and saw that the mount in the car was the same, it was just a longer bolt though the brake and out the side for the clutch pedal. You may want a clutch safety switch so the car can only be started when the clutch is depressed. Pontiac used the same ones and are available repros. There's also the reverse lock out linkage, that turns the column like a floor shift automatic. When in reverse the linkage goes up the firewall to the column. turns the collar on the column and locks the key. You can only get the key out when in reverse. This linkage is the same on an automatic car, I was able to reuse it in my swap. This same linkage also activates the reverse lights. the switch goes where the neutral start switch woudl go on an auto. Except this switch sole purpose is to light the reverse lights when the column is turned by the lock out linkage.
Wow thanks for link. I think he's going to keeps his automatic after he reads this lol. I'm going to forward that link to him. Thanks again
Is he looking for 100% concours,like the way it would have came from the factory? If so yes,in the $4k+ range for a complete conversion with everything rebuilt or restored.
Careful. Some are fully machined. Most are partially machined. I ran into this looking for a suitable one in my pile of parts. Early cranks almost always are. Later ones (unless it is a factory 4-speed) are not finished. They have a step about half-way down, that is about 30 thou too small. My machinst chose to mill down my bushing to fit rather than open up the crank pilot.
Yep- I have a 430 that I converted to a 4 speed and the crank wasn't finished milled. I mic'ed the crank pilot and had a pilot bushing milled to fit the crank. I also learned that if you don't want a galled input shaft use a magnet on the pilot bushing to check that its a proper non ferrous alloy. I have a pile of cheapo ferric alloy bushings that love to heat up and eat up input shafts.
Thanks guys. He was a bit shocked as to what was all needed so he said he can't afford all of it at once. If you guys that are offering parts could pm me prices and list of wht you have I'll forward info to him. Thanks again, much appreciated.
