I'm wanting to install A 4 speed this coming up winter ,but have been reading some 350 crankshaft are not drilled properly. I was just seeing if anyone has ran into this before ,and what did you do.I see some people may have machined A custom pilot bushing.
You can use of these if you run into problems with a conventional bushing/bearing. I used one on my 455 and it worked fine but I did have to use a 1/4" spacer between the transmission and bell housing to account for the fact that this bearing is closer to the transmission case, which may interfere with the input shaft. Measure carefully. https://store.dickmillerracing.com/crankshaftadapterbearing.aspx
OK thanks That makes me fill better, If my crank isn't drilled good enough or can't machine A pilot bushing, at least I know I got that opinion.
I just converted my 65 Skylark. The pilot bushing in my clutch kit was slightly too large for my crank. these bushings are made from sintered metal. Don't use one that is a bearing. You can rig up a drill to spin the bushing and use a metal file to size the bushing. Just liken a home made metal lathe. Very simple to do.
Ok thanks That's A good idea. I probably won't convert it in tell this winter, but just seeing what everyone is doing. Thanks for the info
Just make sure the sintered metal bushing is bronze only. You don't want any that are a hybrid of iron and bronze. They could wear the input shaft if not the correct composition.
OK thanks guys I appreciate all your help. Like I said ,I'm probably going to convert it this winter, but wanted to know what I'm going to be up against.
I am finally getting around to installing the 4 speed in my skylark. I lucked out and my crank pilot bushing hole was within spec but did have A step in the back.I had to remove about 3/16 from the back of the bushing to get it to seat in all the way. I used A bolt and nuts to chuck it in my drill to remove the small amount with A file in the back of the bushing so it would clear the steep. My engine block wasn't drilled for the z bar stud.I used A very small cordless right angle drill and had to cut the drill bit down to fit it but was able to drill and tap it with the motor in the car.
Hopefully your procedure kept the center hole concentric with the outer diameter(s), or at least the majority of the OD.
