I have an '86 Regal with a 307 Olds; I now have a Buick 455 ('73) that I would like to swap in. I am looking for frame pad/motor mount information -- what needs to be changed and if I need to drill out new locations (etc). Any info would be appreciated!
Gbody Thats a good SWAP Yes you will have to drill new holes for the pads, the pads( or frame stands) you need are from any GS 455 Buick Abody 68-72. Go ahead and mount your transmision to the engine then onto your crossmember to help center and locate your pads to the frame, to mark and drill your holes.( as for the crossmember go to www.crossmembers.com to get one thats been fabricated to clear dual exhaust for a Gbody) I beleive you can retain your alternator, and pwr steering pump, and the radiator (althought upgrade to at least a 3 row) and its shroud from the 307. THe rest depends on how much accessories and bracketry came on the 455. If it had a 307 in it it probaly has only a 7.5 rearend in it. that is another thing to consider, it will work mind you, but with the torque and output of a 455, it wont last. The most common practice is to upgrade to a 8.5 rearend like from a Grand National. There are more aspects to this swap that are different car to car that all of us encountered, so feel free to ask away on your version. I hope this helps some
455 Buick Regal ...Poston Buick sells special "chassis mounts" that allow a Buick 455 into a g-body Regal... and YES you do need to drill 2-additionial holes in the chassis in order for the chassis mounts to bolt in. Please do install the tranny and 455 as one...mark/spray paint around the Poston chassis mounts (creating a template for correct position) then pull tranny and engine out, unbolt the chassis mount from the motor mounts, and drill the new holes...bolt down the chassis mounts...and the rest is history. Any other chassis mounts from 68-72 A-body may have the engine sitting way too high...thus not allowing the hood to close (I went through this already). I used (from a V6 Regal) everything from the Regal...as it all bolts right up with Buick's 455 engine and all stock accessories. I moved the stock TH200 transmission crossmember @ 4-inches back and used it with the TH400 3-speed tranny. Please do get a GN 10-bolt 8.5" posi rear for this set up...IT'S THE TORQUE!!! :bglasses: The TH200-4R tranny is @ same length as the TH400 short-tail.... bolts in with no cutting of the drive-shaft (providing you use the 7-5/6" rear on the Regal now). And yes...the stock radiator/shroud will work with this formula...but that stock radiator is NO GOOD for a Big-Block Buick V8. It's a promise...THIS CAR WILL STAY SIDEWAYS!!!! Any more info needed, please contact me (Chris) at; Superpowers20@yahoo.com :TU:
Thanks to both of you! I will have to take my time on this one and ensure I have it all correct. One good thing is that I managed to get all of the brackets along with the engine (the thing came complete; carb, alternator, power steering pump, ac compressor, etc). There is one problem -- I managed to get the 400 Turbo with the engine but I think it's the long-tail (came as a package). Should I just get the short-tail or will this one be workable? I figure the transmission will be hanging out a little further than normal -- but I will have to get out the measuring tape and figure it out. I do have the feeling that this will create more of a headache than it is worth.
it's an easy swap in, i had an 86 in 1999,that i used the poston mounts on. currently i'm in the process of a 430 installation in my 82 regal, used '68 GS400 frame pads on it. here's a pic of what yours could look like :TU: and yes, it will DEFINATELY do this :3gears: :3gears: :3gears:
Gbody Having that long tail 400 shouldnt be a prob, just check with the Crossmembers.com website (I BELEIVE) dont quote me on it, that he has one set up for the long tail shaft, mount is in different location (futher back) than the short tail. Will have to shorten the drive shaft tho. Like quick82Regal said its a easy straightfoward swap, just align and drill new holes. Good luck!! if ya run into a snag ask away
Would it be easier to get the engine wiring harness from a Buick V6 powered G Body? It just unpluggs (after taking the center fastner out) from the back of the fuse block under the brake booster. The Olds V8 harness has the starter and alternator on the opposite side and will take a lot of modifications. The V6 wiring harness will have everything in the normal place. It might be easier to get the accessory bracketry (for alternator, AC compressor etc) off a NA Buick V6 which will bolt right on the 455 heads. Especially if you want to have working AC. Just some thoughts
Wiring Harness & Brackets Loyd I managed to get the AC compressor and alternator (& brackets) with the engine - along with the starter. I already know that I will have to find a different AC bracket; that should not be too tough. Hopefully, I will be able to scavenge a decent wiring harness without too much damage to it. Do you know if any other G-Body wiring harnesses will fit? I would think if the starter and the alternator would be on the correct side, it would work. Any experience there? Thanks for the input - and keep it coming. I hope to gather as much information as possible before the swap so I am not going hunting for parts every 2 hours (although this is a probably a pipe dream). gbodyfan
:grin: I am using a long shaft 400 for my swap too. G-Force does not have a long shaft unit availible but he added extra material to the crossmember for me to drill new holes into. The new holes ended up being very close to the short shaft holes because I set my engine so far back. I also had to elongate the existing holes in the chassis for the mount pads because the engine is so far back, which is what you want with this swap. Also remember the bowertrain in a g body is 3/4 offset to the right. Many people dont believe me but measure the distance from the fuel line hole to the frame on the left and right side and you will see the difference. I hope this helps. I just finished mocking up the motor two days ago and I should have pics up soon. :grin:
Oh yeah the wiring... ou: The Monte Carlo and Grand Prix v8 harnesses are very similar to the v6 Buick except that the distributor wire will be too short but other than that, I think everything else will reach its destination.
I have an 84 T-type thats going to have a 455 in it, So you guys are saying the alternator, power steering pump, etc brackets off of a v6 buick g-body will fit directly onto the 455 block! you were also talking about the wiring harnesses is this a direct fit to even though its a turbo buick, one other question I have a driveshaft for the 8.5 if I swap in a 400 tranny am I able to use the same one or do I have to get one that is either shorter or does it need to be longer. thanks
Having done this swap myself, and worked on a number of Olds and V6 Buick powered cars... Easiest swap is from a car that was originally a N/A 3.8L or 4.1L. All of the brackets and accessories will bolt to the 455. A lot of the wires are in the correct location, however any of the ones running to the "front" of the motor (coolant temp, distributor, oil pressure) will be too short and need to be extended. A carbureted turbocharged 3.8L can be done as well and isn't too bad, however you'll need to acquire a set of brackets from a N/A V6 as the turbo brackets won't work (this is what I did). After that, your best bet is probably a Chevy (V8 or V6) powered car, especially if it has a 200-4R or you have a transmission for the 455 already lined up. The starter and battery are in the right location, however the distributor and oil pressure are in the wrong spot. Coolant temp is "close" to the right spot. Still, I'd rather lengthen/relocate those than mess with starter wiring. Brackets and accessories will be of course worthless, and your best bet is use the original 455 brackets or acquire a set of 3.8L brackets. Final choice would be an Olds. It has almost all of the same problems as the Chevy engine, except the oil pressure is a bit closer to the right spot. In addition, the battery and starter are on the "wrong" side compared to Buick and Chevy. Still, it could be made to work. A fuel injected Turbo Buick would be my dead last choice for doing the swap. It's not even wired for a distributor; they all use DIS (distributorless ignition system) and have a much more complicated set of computer sensors and wiring that might be more difficult to remove. I doubt the accessory drive system would work either, although I've never tried. One advantage is that you already have an 8.5" rear axle in this case; however I'd far rather start with another car and simply swap the 8.5" into it.
well the guy that had it before had a 383 stroker motor in it so their must be some kind of wiring for the distributor I bought the car without the motor or tranny since I planned on putting a 455 into it anyways, I'll have to really look at the wiring set up in the engine compartment and figure out what goes to what. any other info would be great thanks also would it be any easier if I just got the wiring harness off of a NA buick v6?
Wheee, it's ALWAYS fun picking up someone else's project! If it was wired for a Chevy 383, the necessary wiring will be there. Whether it's done properly or not is anyone's guess. Probably best to try and work with what you have at this point.
I vote for the NA V6 wiring harness. If you're in a yard that has a V6 Regal look around for a V6 LeSabre or a 70's LeSabre or Electra with a Buick 350. Compare them. You may be able to use one from the bigger cars so you can have some room in case you need to stretch any wires (if you know what I mean). Besides the HEI dist from that Buick 350 is a dist gear away from being usable in your 455.
Everyone has been saying use the Poston mounts, are you actually talking about the motor pads? I finally got my set in from TA yesterday and ready to drop the motor in. Im assuming I will still need the lower mounts from a 68-72 correct, or will the 307 mounts work? Is there anyway someone could post a picture of how everything is situated in there?
here's what mine looks like bolted in. you will need 455 motor mounts the frame pads from a 68'72 GS, or the frame pad kit from TA,#1820B
