3 Movies - 6,000 RPM Nailhead, tach, q-jet and exhaust.

I've got my old XTRAS on my bookshelf. I will go through them tonight. I'll try to send a decent pic to you(I don't have a scanner). Dan

 

Dan, do you have access to scanner anywhere? Most public libraries will have a scanner you can use. Can you describe to us what it is that you did?

 

Well dang it, I can't find it!!!!!

I spent about two hours sifting through my old GSXtras, and couldn't find it. I do remember that I put the secondary metering rod in my drill and used an emory cloth. I started about 2 mm from the top of the tip, and put an even taper that left the tip about 1/2 of the original diameter. I don't remember if I used AU or AX rods, because I lent them to a friend for the Musclecar Nationals, and he never gave them back(along with my NOS 15x7 Buick wheels). I've learned my lesson.....Try it with a junk set of rods, and let me know how you like it. Dan

 

Interesting...wouldn't the chuck of the drill crush the rod hook? I'll have to try it on my extra set of fat rods.

 

Interesting, so let me see if I've got this right. We are talking about modifying the power tip (thin bit at the end)? And the idea is to make what is already the thin bit even thinner? So it creates a taper from near the end of the tip (2mm isn't a very long way) which reduces as it heads to the end of the tip where it ends up about half the original diameter. Does the very end of the tip still remain square or is does it end up like a point? Care to draw a very rough diagram?

 

Wouldn't both sides have to be almost identical in order for it to work properly? It seems to me that any variance would throw the power off.

 

Good point.

 

You start at a point just below where the power tip( near the fat part) starts and taper down to the tip of the power tip. It allows fuel to start flowing past the tip sooner. I tried very hard to get the taper as exact as possible. I didn't have a Dremel at the time, so I used an electric drill. I can't remember if I needed to use a piece of leather around the end of the rod. I haven't yet figured out how to post pics, so I can't send a diagram. I'd be happy to email one to you, Bill. Yes, it really does work. My carb has been stumbling since I put the Pertronix in it. I need to do another set to see if it cures the problem. Dan

 

Here is a picture of an old CP metering rod compared to the AX rod I am using at the moment. As you can see it's very thin on the power tip allowing much more fuel to flow past the rod and into the jet. There's not much room for extra slimming but I expect that if you had a CP (or fatter) rod you could do some mods to get it down closer to an AX size. Is this what you mean Dan?

 

Hi Bill,
I can't remember if I used an AU or AX, but do remember that when I was finished, it wasn't sharp enough to break my skin. I wouldn't risk this trick on the AX you show. I'd try it on a slightly fatter rod, and see if it performs better than the AX. I'm betting it will. My experience was an eye opener. I didn't even adjust the spring tension or diaghragm. I just put them in and ran. I was using them when I beat the LS6 4-speed with 4:11's, and the '77 or'78 LS7 Malibu with my Stage convertible.