231 to Buick 350 swap/1 year

Discussion in 'V-8 Buick Powered Regals' started by KGB, Oct 21, 2017.

  1. KGB

    KGB Well-Known Member

    More progress today, not quite finished though. Fixed the fans, turned out to be a bad ground. I've been having trouble getting the proper fluid since changing the trans. pan. Adding more never seems to show on the dipstick, and then it shoots out anyway. I've got the original tube from the Metric 200 in the transmission, and the dipstick from a Trans-Dapt TH350 tube and stick. So today it hit me like a ton of bricks. I took the new stick out, and the old stick out of the trunk. Sure enough, the TD stick is way too short. But the old one is too long. I'm not sure how I missed that when I dropped the pan to change it. So I drained the pan, and got a lot of fluid. Put some of it back in, and took a little test drive. When first shifting from park to reverse, or any other gear, it stays in park. From whatever gear I stop on, back to park, and to reverse again, it goes into gear. Then it goes into all the gears. I got the transmission up to about 150*F, then shut it down. After I ate, I took a quick trip to the gas station. On the way there it stayed right around 200*F, and on the way back it slowly crept past 210 and stopped at around 220. When I got back, I kept the car running but shut the fans off. That's when the trans. temp reached 250 and I shut it down. It shifted okay, but I was more focused on gauges than the shifting. So tomorrow I'll put a bit more fluid in and see what that does.
     
  2. KGB

    KGB Well-Known Member

    Well so much for that last post. Today I started it up, tried to shift into gear and got nothing. Park, tried again. Nothing. Tried again, nothing. I put it in first I think, and after a couple seconds it lurched forward. Tried the other gears, but got nothing. I put it in reverse and revved it to about 1500 and flew backward a few feet. Got out and put the old dipstick in to get a reading, and it was at the add line. Not hot. Went to hit the fans and blew the fuses again. Shut the car down to rethink things, and the fluid starts coming back out the dipstick again. If my measurements were right, I was 2.5 quarts back into the transmission after I drained it. I had planned on getting it down to the transmission shop tonight, but no gears put the brakes on that. And my fans have me completely stumped. They both work fine if the car is off, but as soon as it's running it blows fuses.
     
  3. KGB

    KGB Well-Known Member

    Okay, made some headway today. I've been talking to the folks at Derale on my fans blowing fuses. To start, they told me to switch the ground and switch wires. I tried that yesterday, and managed to get the fans to come on with the car on. But after turning them on and off a few times, I blew the fuses. Replaced the fuses and got one to blow and one to stay on. Replaced the burnt one and it stayed on, and burnt the other one. Next, they told me the problem could be the fuse holder itself. They recommended circuit breakers, so I bought circuit breakers. Put them in today and solved the problem. Turned on and off many times and no problems. Just need to mount them. Tomorrow I've got somebody coming by to give me a hand with the transmission, so I can get it back to the transmission shop.
     

    Attached Files:

  4. KGB

    KGB Well-Known Member

    So I picked the car up from the transmission shop last Wednesday. My cooler lines were ****, my vent tube was plugged, and my temp sensor is faulty. The sensor was in the pan, and after letting the car warm up and a short drive, it pegs the gauge at 250. They put the sensor in the transmission itself, but the same thing happens. Other than that the transmission is good. From there I drove over to where I used to work to fix the hole in my airbox. I took the heater blower off at the firewall, and used some cardboard in a bag to close and shape the hole. Next I took some "green glue" and smeared that inside on the bagged cardboard, followed by a chunk of fiberglass to cap it. I came back the next day to find clearance, Clarence. Since Saturday I've been driving the car to and from work with hardly any problems. I do have an exhaust leak now, in the center of the passenger manifold. Pretty much done, just need to iron out a few things.
     

    Attached Files:

    300sbb_overkill likes this.
  5. partsrparts

    partsrparts Silver Level contributor

    What motor mounts are you using, the V6 ones? when I put a 350 in my 76 Skylark I had to use poly mounts because the V6 mounts are to soft and let the motor lean quite a bit towards the passenger side. The frame pads for a V6 in my Xbody will not let you use V8 mounts
     
  6. 1987Regal

    1987Regal Well-Known Member

  7. KGB

    KGB Well-Known Member

    Yeah just the V6 ones. About a month before I started all this, the original mount tore itself in half. I bought new ones but like you say, they let that 350 lean over pretty good. The car has been fairly sluggish right off the line, but picks up after the first 20 mph or so. I'm not sure if the engine is twisting too much or my brakes are dragging. So this weekend I'll strap the engine down and see if that solves it, if not I'll start on the brakes.
     
  8. partsrparts

    partsrparts Silver Level contributor

    Before I went with the poly mounts the pass side header was sitting on the upper control arm adjusting bolt and the driver side header was on the motor mount. This was with brand new V6 mounts. The motor bounced around quite a bit, at a lower idle it would actually rock back and forth
     
  9. 1987Regal

    1987Regal Well-Known Member

    I had the same issue I used SPC upper control arms and modified the headers for fitment I used new v6 mounts and used a ratchet strap on the driver side
     
  10. KGB

    KGB Well-Known Member

    I'd thought about getting headers, but I figured it'd be a tight enough fit as it was. At least one poly mount is in my future. I got the ratchet strap tight, but that didn't solve all my problems. Today I messed with that strap, put a new fuel pump in, and played with the vacuum modulator a bit. When I left the shop, the strap was holding. And so were the brakes. When coming to a stop, sometimes it feels like it locks up the passenger side front. When pulling away, if I take my foot off the brake quick, it almost stays stopped. The brakes were doing their lockup thing before the swap, but it wouldn't happen very often. Maybe once a month. I did the brakes before I went on a trip last year, and basically ended up burning them off on the trip. So I'm just waiting on hoses and I'll try again with the brakes, this time with new calipers and better pads.
     
  11. 1987Regal

    1987Regal Well-Known Member

    Headers are tight I got them used for $175 long time ago and they are 1 3/4 tubes. A day of time for me along with cut and tweaking them and reweld. Passenger side was the worst. But again I used 1 3/4 vs 1 5/8
     
  12. Mark Demko

    Mark Demko Well-Known Member

    Your fuel pump eccentric is on backwards:eek:
     
  13. KGB

    KGB Well-Known Member

    Not sure what you mean Mark, I fixed that awhile ago. I had the distributor gear and eccentric swapped. Fuel pump wouldn't even go on until I fixed it. I changed the pump on Sunday because I thought it was leaking around the outlet on the pump itself. Turned out it was just the old hardline fitting that was leaking.
     

Share This Page