215 no oil pressure

Discussion in 'Wrenchin' Secrets' started by Nesmith, Feb 14, 2020 at 12:18 AM.

  1. Nesmith

    Nesmith Well-Known Member

    Ok car ran fine (oil light out of corse & 30 + plus on gauge ) has 33,000 then parked with clean oil & antifreeze in an attach garage since 02 ok took plugs out put Gibbs oil in cyls. & intake turned by hand next day cranked the lengthiest time you should and did this a couple of times over a few days And no presser !! i can't find a strate answer that pertains to what i wrote above so there must be a simple ( i hope ) answer i know from working on buicks to put oil in filter after changing it ! but this was running fine ! so please any ideas / help Thanks
     
  2. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    Oil pump lost the prime in 17 years time. (by the way, does the oil light come one with key on, and while cranking?)
    If you have a filter without an oil anti-drainback valve, you may get lucky if you pull the filter, top it off and put it back on and try cranking again.

    After 17 years setting, I would not crank the engine anymore than you have, except to try one more time after filling the filter. (unless you already did try filling the filter)

    Mark the distributor housing at the block so you can put it back in on that exact spot (clocking).
    Pull the cap and lay a straight edge across the rotor and make a mark on the engine so that you can get the rotor back in that exact position.

    Then, pull the distributor, notice where the shaft for the oil pump at the bottom of the hole for the distributor so you can set it there after priming. Use a "priming tool" (should be able to find one locally at auto parts store, or order one online) in a drill and run it clockwise until you get oil pressure. It may take a minute or two. (while the distributor is out, DO NOT rotate the engine/crank until you get the distributor back in). If you do, you will need to set the engine to TDC on the number 1 cylinder and reset timing. (just more work)

    If you get pressure, set the oil pump shaft to where the slot was as mentioned above, then hold the distributor in the same orientation with your mark on the distributor aligned with the mark on the block, then rotate the rotor counter clockwise about 1/8 a turn, from the mark with the straightedge, then slip the housing in the hole, as the gear engages the cam, the rotor will want to move clockwise and if you have everything close, it should drop back in to the original orientation, mark on housing and block should line up and rotor should be same as it was with the straight edge. If so, put the cap on, tighten the hold down, and you should be able to fire it up. (hopefully, you are using fresh fuel, anything older than a year may be too stale to start)

    If you cannot get a prime, you may have to pull the end plate off the pump and pack the housing with petroleum jelly to get the pump to prime. If so, post back as you may want input on doing that before you start.
     
    Last edited: Feb 14, 2020 at 1:20 AM
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  3. Nesmith

    Nesmith Well-Known Member

    Wow thank you for all that info. ok i have been working on engines for 60 years and i guess this style eng. would do that after all those years siting ok before i laid it up i had installed a set of gauges + left the idiot light in line too i did a considerable cranking with plugs out over a couple of days so thats why i was so concerned that something weird went wrong ok now that tool is that a general tool ? or something pacific to theses engines ? also i always use a gas can hooked to the fuel pump & or if the mechanical pump is bad then an electric i did leave it with a full to top with gas but we all know that 17 year old gas is only good to clean parts if you can stand the smell ! lol ok will keep you posted as its turned Very cold here in NY Thanks again
     
  4. TrunkMonkey

    TrunkMonkey Well-Known Member

    If it were me, I would disconnect the fuel line at the pump, use a gas can and fresh gas to start the car, and after, drain the gas tank and use fresh gas and draw fuel from the body line until clear, then reconnect it to the fuel pump.

    No way would I put 17 year old gas in an engine I want to keep running. The few dollars and time are worth that effort.

    The issue with the oil system loosing prime is twofold. One is the pump not being on the bottom of the block in the sump and only having to draw a few inches, but being up and at the front of the block and having to draw oil almost 3 feet from the pick up to the pump gears. Second is the oil filter is on its side, and if a filter is used without the anti-drainback valve, it will loose oil from siphon/drainback, as the near 3 foot column of oil will "pull" the oil back over time, and you are trying to spin an engine that has been sitting for a long time at a very low RPM, and trying to get that thick cold oil all the way to the pump.

    You can get an oil pump primer tool for about $20-$30 at many autopart stores. If you mark and pull your distributor, and take it with you, you can measure the tool at the store. Most are "universal" with a sliding collar (stepped or tapered) to center the tool.

    And Buicks, with the distributor up front, make it pretty easy.

    I've done heavy maintenance in some pretty cold and nasty weather, so I know that drill. [​IMG]

    Keep us posted. :)
     
  5. telriv

    telriv Well-Known Member

    One of the things I have done in the past on these timing case cover mounted oil pumps & this goes for AMC/Jeep as well. I remove the oil filter & squirt oil from an oil can into the outlet of the pump while spinning the dizzy counter clockwise. This usually sucks the oil into the pump thereby priming it. IF it doesn't suck in the oil the 1st. time try again. It usually works for myself every time. Even with an oil pump in the pan. Before installing the pump prime it with the method above so you DON'T have to take the pump apart to prime it. WORKS EVERY TIME.

    Tom T.
     
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