I have had a bit of a hard time finding all the info I needed, it was kind of all over the place. The most usefull I found was in these 2 links. I recommend that this becomes a sticky as line pressure for these tranis is critical. http://www.tvmadeez.com/article/index.php http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/line_pressure.asp#TH200700 Bowties site has a part 1, 2 and 3, I have linked 1 only. TCI auto specs are for their modified 200r4/700r4 trani so these may differ slightly from stock. I would love to see a chart that showed line pressures for these tranis stock.
OK, Here we go; This is a pic of the plug that goes in my 200-4r Trans. Clockwise from 11 o:clock is the 12v input. If you look close at the plug, it has the letter"A" on it. It's Pink. Run a fused + wire to it. It doesn't matter if it is switched with the ignition or not. Run the 12v posi to a switch positioned where ever you want, just make sure you can reach it while cruising. Next (B)is a Green Wire. Ignore it. Next (C) is obvious. Next (D) is a Tan wire that is the Ground. I ran mine back under the dash to a ground. You pick your spot. Now, if I'm just running down the road, stopping and going, I leave it off. The only time I use it is when I'm running down the expressway. Turn the switch on and you will have lock-up in 4th gear. You can also leave it on all the time and it will automatically lock-up. I don't like that cuz it drags the engine too low, even with 3.55 gears. Now the TV Cable. Remember 4:30 and 7:00 O:Clock. 4:30 at idle and 7 at WOT. The bracket must be 1.1in. from center to center. If you keep to those "Times" and your bracket swings 78* you shouldn't have any problems. I hope this helps. PONCH OOPS, Wrong pic.
Ponch, if I wire it up with no switch, coudn't I just leave the trans in 3rd around town? Mike, did you try surfing around the turbo boards? There should be something over there. Brian
Hi Brian; Why not run it without a switch and run it in fourth gear? It wont lock up. But then you will have more converter slippage and more heat build-up. I've got a BRF Trans with a higher stall, so I wanted a switch. If you have a low stall converter, I don't think there would be a problem. I would put a cooler on it tho. PONCH
Brian, Looked around those boards, a lot of unanswered posts! Makes you realize how fortunate we are to have access to V8 buick! I am also running a BFR like Ponch. Got lucky with the geometry on the carb, After market Carter AFB, everything lined up. (at least I think it does)...I used a B&M TCC set up, 187.00 plus taxes at MOPAC, so far so good, works with a speed sensor on the speedo cable, you can then dial in or out at what speed the lock up kicks in. Used lockar TV cable and bracket, it does not have the ratchet feature that you would find on the original cable but that does not seem to matter.
You MUST have lockup in 4th gear if you are using a lockup converter or you will fry the trans. If the TCC is not engaged in 4th gear you have reduced lube flow to the trans. If you are using a N/L converter you alter this flow so that in 4th you still have 100% lube flow. The B&M speedo TCC setup is a good setup when combined with a 4th gear switch. You can also have it lockup in 3rd.
Then why not do what I suggested in my first post and just go with a 69 cent switch instead of spending $187. Why would you want a lock-up in 3rd gear anyway. Unless you are racing all the time. "The Old Guy" told me quite a while ago to use the KISS method when approaching these kinds of matters. Keep It Simple Stupid. I don't know if I should take that personnally or not. I'm still trying to figure that one out.uzzled: PONCH
You don't want to run the converter with a toggle switch. You could forget to lock it up and burn up the trans. A 4th gear pressure switch that screws into the valve body is relatively inexpensive. My cost is less than $10 on them. Then you need a connector that clips into the transmission, it is about $20 from the GM dealer. I also suggest a new TCC lockup solenoid while you are in the pan. It's $20 or so. Then you can wire it up to a single 12V Ign supply and you will have automatic lockup function in 4th gear. You can also make it work automatically in 3rd and 4th depending on where you plumb in the switch. You can use a toggle switch to command a lockup in 2nd, 3rd, and 4th, or you can toggle the supply to kill the 4th lockup. A rocker switch can do both. I suggest using a vacuum switch connected to ported vacuum to unlock the converter in coast conditions, and under WOT conditions. THis is also a relatively inexpensive switch, $15-20 at the GM dealer, or a bit more for an adjustable aftermarket piece. You should try to make the transmission work as it was designed to do if you want it to live and operate properly. I personally don't want to have a bunch of toggle switches and clutter in my cars interior. I went to considerable trouble to find original parts and keep it completely stock appearing.
THANKS for those details re line pressure, could not find anything out there! Also, interesting comments around lock up alternatives. My one disappointment is that breaking those rear tires loose is still a chore! 3.23 gears, posi, 4bbl, mild cam, rebuilt heads with very mild porting, port matching, recurved distributor and duals...I have been having carb isues. Anyhow, let's keep this thread around 2004r, I will sort my other issues elswhere.
You should buy a GM "Principles of Operation" manual for the 200-4R sometime and sit down and study the hydraulic circuitry, particularly the TCC lockup circuit and the trans lubrication flow. In 4th gear, when the converter is unlocked, the lube flow that lubes the trans bushings from front to back is reduced significantly. The reduced lube flow isn't going to show up as hotter trans fluid temps at the pan. It will show up as metal shavings in the pan and worn out bushings and thrust washers. Crusing around in 4th for extended periods of time at any speed, but especially highway speeds, is asking for a toasted trans. I would suggest you keep your toggle switch ON in 4th as much as possible...
So, if my B&M widget is set to kick in at 6o mph, technically I could be cruising at 55 in 4th and have issues? This B&M kit, if I dial it in for 40 mph and I am in 3rd will it lock up? Or only lock up in 4th?
So, if I am in 4th and locked up and I WOT, I believe I loose some kind of mutiplication factor. If I understand above, I can install some kind of vaccum switch that would disactivate my B&M lock up device at WOT. I assume it would just patch in to my hot line...
Where would one aquirre such a manual? Do you have a part number as I'm guessing it is a GM part? TIA I found it http://www.helminc.com/helm/product...ype=N&mscsid=L042BUJD76GH8L23K8MCMM82RHBT70M5
Hey Jake, I see you made it over to this board. Glad to see you spreading your trans knowledge around. No doubt many will benefit. RoadDawg
i know this thread is old but i figure it's worth a shot. i have a 1984 200-4R that I believe came from an Olds because it said OG on the tag. I am also looking for the stock line pressure chart. All the stuff I've seen online are for the vendor's and comparing them from this manual, they're extremely high. Would the chart be the same on an '84? I would think not. But if you happen to have it for '84, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Let me see what I have and get back to you....... OK. The closest thing I have is a 1981 Cadillac Service Manual, which coincidentally lists an OG code in their chart, also. The pressure chart for the 200-4R is pretty similar to what is listed above, but I'll type them in at the end of this for reference. I kept this manual because it has service procedures for TH400, TH350, TH325, TH200, and TH200-4R. I thought it might be good material to keep. Normal Oil Pressure @ Minimum TV P & N=55-65 PSI R=100-110 PSI D & M3= 55-65 PSI M2 & Lo= 130-150 PSI Normal Oil Pressure @ Full TV P & N= 120-145 PSI (BM, BY, EG codes) 140-165 PSI (OG, CU, PH codes) R= 210-250 PSI (BM, BY, EG) 240-285 PSI (OG, CU, PH) D & M3= 120-145 PSI (BM, BY, EG) 140-165 PSI (OG, CU,PH) M2 & Lo= 130-150 PSI (All 6 codes listed) I know it's not what you were looking for specifically, but I hope it helps some.
For the V8 members that don't know Jake is a highly respected trans builder. Thanks for coming on our board. He is also correct that you should lockup 4th gear if your trans has not been modified for non lockup. I have not had problems just doing manual lockup with a switch. Around town I do not worry about it since I would be in a very low throttle or coasting situation. Don't know if this is ideal but no problems driving it this way. I would worry if others drove my car but I am very good about locking up trans. Will have to look more at what Jake described next year.
Are you running this trans, or will you be doing some upgrades before putting it into service? An 84 needs some hard pump rings and a hardened stator support(along with a hard sun shell of you "go in"). I would put in larger boost valves and spring and a stiffer pump slide spring while you have it apart. A larger 2nd servo is also needed for a performance build. Higher pressure equates to less clutch slip, extending the clutch life. What do you plan to use to put power through the trans?
