If it is already slipping you probably need to pull it apart as the direct clutches are probably torched and the steels are all hot spotted. Not much I can suggest other than making sure it has proper pressure rise as the tv is applied. and the clearance on those direct clutches is very important but they can vary with the different clutch materials. Also the apply ring can be a problem as it is pretty small apply area. There are aftermarket pistons that give the apply area a big addition. Also the retaining plate on the direct can cone the clutch pack if it is real thin. What does the fluid look and smell like? What do you have for pressure when it shifts? I like to run a hose and gauge up and tape it to the windshield to get a good reading while driving it. What are you using for the servo? It incorporates the accumulator for the 2-3 shift. I like a sonnax unit. http://www.ckperformance.com/View/ALUMINUM-DIRECT-CLUTCH-PISTON http://www.extremeautomatics.com/productdetail.php?product=106 I would be on the phone with David Husek at Turbo Buick Performance and inquire what he recommends. Not that the two links I posted aren't good places, but Mr Husek has always helped me with no questions asked so I put him to the top of the list. http://www.turbobuickperformance.com
Hi Rich, Interesting point that you make about the clutches and plates being burned, i built the trans myself with a $1,000. CK kit about 5 years ago. The fluid has never become discolored or burnt. The car has been down the track at least 150 times WOT shifting at 5200. maybe the issue is sticking not slipping. I love everything about the trans except the WOT 2/3 1/2 shift @WOT is extra firm. i used to run a gauge taped to the windshield for a while. i'm not 100% sure but i think it stayed steady mid 200's @ WOT 2/3 I had 2 Level3's from Lonnie both broke quickly. Chris, hard getting him on the phone. It's a simple question for someone who knows the trans. I'll get in touch with David Cheers! this is a clip from the CK book, i just recently noticed the part about bind-up.
Do you recall the clearance you set the direct clutch pack when you assembled? Many set them up too loose. And the rule of thumb many use based on how many clutches is too loose also. I used the raybestos red stage one clutches(stock number with an extra thin steel to get the clearance) and set mine up to just over .040. There are blue clutches and some tan ones but I've never used either of those. That passage you posted refers to dual feeding the direct. I didn't do that as I'm not using a billet shaft fwd drum. Are you dual feeding the directs? Using a billet shaft fwd drum? Ill pm.
I think you're on the right track about clutch pack clearance. I had one that did not have the dual feed mod, and the flare got worse over time. Even at light throttle the shift had a gap because it's a timed shift and the extra clearance took longer to engage.
truth be if the issue is that deep, i'm not gonna pull it apart. I've set it up for the governor to shift at 5200 both 1-2 and 2-3. the condition is present both in manual shift or if it's in D. Last time at the track it ran pretty consistent, as i thinking about it i shouldn't even touch it. I wish CK book was easier to read.
